DIY 4 Degree Timing Advance (Pics)
- Thread starter jwalk1818
- Start date
the white stuff is just oxidized aluminum. aluminum does that being outside in the atmosphere.
Good DIY thanks a million I am goin to give it a shot tonight and see what the outcome is. I hope it squares away my problems. I cant get it to idle as of now. So hopefully it will idle and give me a lil more power as is what I am looking for. I also need to order a new Throttle Cable that might help out a lil bit also lol. Check out the blaster now that I have it done so far.
that shouldn't really affect your idle, but maybe you should turn your idle screw up or down, not sure if you are idling to high or low.
Thanks for the DIY I just did mine and noticed a much snappier throttle and indrease of power..Hell Ya!!
when i did this mod, i got out my compass and protractor, drew a circle on a piece of paper the same diameter as the stator (4.5", so set the compass for a 2.25" radius), then took my protractor and marked the circumference w/ an arbitrary point as zero and marked 5 degrees (or whatever amount of advance or retard that you want) from zero.
then i used that as a guide to how much to turn the stator. i think it would have helped even more if i cut the circle out.....
then i used that as a guide to how much to turn the stator. i think it would have helped even more if i cut the circle out.....
advancing the timing puts more strain on the crank and the piston, since the spark plug ignites while the piston is farther away from TDC, even with stock timing it sparks a little before TDC. If you are riding in super slick conditions where you needs a smoother power curve you retard the timing. The more advanced your timing is the steeper power curve you will have, both ways. Less over rev and less bottom. But that is only a general statement, since is affects each machine differently. Another reason to retard the timing is if you only have low octane gas available, it will keep your engine running cooler so it wont predentonate. This is exactly what the new KTM 690 hard enduro does with its ignition mapping switch on the handle bars. It either advances the timing or retards it.
i read thru this thread, i dont know if you heard of it before, but theres this useful thing called an impact gun, this is what you use to take off and on the flywheel nut, that way flywheels dont come off and roll around everywhere
i want to do this, but as i got ready to take off the stator plastic cover, the screws are on so tight, its like they are threadlocked on. any suggestions to help getting them off? i dont want to strip them either.
get a good screwdriver and put in on the screw then take a pair of pliers or an adjustable wrench and push the screwdriver up against the screw the put the pair of pliers on the handle of the screwdriver and turn with the pliers I:I
also when you get the screws off, dont use then again. get some nice allen head or torx head ones.you will thank me then next time you want to take your stator over off.
also just a tip in getting the screws out. you need to use a P3 screwdriver.
also just a tip in getting the screws out. you need to use a P3 screwdriver.
ok, i got those screws off... some blood, sweat, and hand-vicing later. hahaha and i switched them out to hex heads. then i impact wrenched the flywheel nut off, took off the stator, drilled it, etc... i mounted the stator back on but im stumped on how to reinstall the little half-circle thing, i think its the key. anyway, i cant figure out how it goes back in becasue when i popped the flywheel off with the puller, the little piece came flying out. lol. can someone please show me a picture or something of where exactly this goes?
i just did this increase to my 97 stock blaster, and im loving it, wheelies every gear, and i can lay 2 blackkkkkkkkk strips down my road now, dry pavement!
the flat side of the key way sits up, the rounded end goes down into the crankshaft, and that lines up with the slot on your flywheel.
You are supposed to torque the stator nut and use locktite the blue not the red. There is a reason your manufactor gives torque specs in the manual. There is also a tool you can get to hold the flywheel while you loosen the nut. Also to get the flywheel off you get the removal tool makes life and remove a snap.
