Ok. I went to Lowes and my local Ace Hardware and they both didnt have anything. I then came to work today and found that some of our junk (out of spec) parts have 3/16" machine hardened check ball valves. I drilled one out and its exactly what I need. So I can actually get some if ppl need! I have about 15 more
I've tore Down About 5 Bottom Ends and Only Have Rebuilt 1 Fully , It Worked great Except I Didn't Have Or Know About a Leak Down Tester Back When I Did It , like 2004Ish , I've Always Wondered How Long That Motor Lasted Before Something Happened To It , But I Will Need This Video Since its Been A While and To Make Sure Its Right The First Time !
I just put a new clutch in my blaster over the weekend and i checked all the friction plates and they were all the same so i guess in my tusk kit there isnt a thicker one to go on the back. also when i adjusted the clutch internally i could barely get the lock nut on because i had to turn in the adjustment so far but it got on there. is that bad? i noticed that when everything is all said and done and i adjusted it the best i could with the cable that there is no play in my lever at all and when i put it in gear with the clutch pulled in it still wants to move a little. is this normal? thanks!
Hello I'm new to this website. I bought a worked blaster dirt cheap and removed the tors and it idles and revs fine. But as soon as I shift into first gear it jumps a little and stalls. I'm holding the clutch in. Even when it's off you throw it in gear and hold the clutch in and it won't move. It seems like the clutch isn't engaging? Idk I need help. Thanks
ok so i installed a new tusk clutch and theres a gap between the plate and the hub and it has alot of movement and wont grab at all i need help asap i got a race tommarrow
The first plate and the pressure ring are the only two that matter as far as order is concerned. Make sure when removing the washer with a screwdriver and a hammer that you don't miss and knock on of the damn posts off your Boss Hub.