Arm rippin torque
- Thread starter 06twostroker
- Start date
The superior "oiliness" of castor oil and its ability to "cling" to very hot moving parts make it an outstanding racing oil for high performance engines.
I am now using Castrol R30 due to unavailability of 927
I am now using Castrol R30 due to unavailability of 927
It is a premix oil, but beware it does not like to be mixed with mineral oils.
If you are using fully synthetic oil in the mix, it is ok to drain the tank and use the new mix.
If using a mineral oil in the premix there should be a flushing cycle performed before filling the tank with a castor blend premix.
If you are using fully synthetic oil in the mix, it is ok to drain the tank and use the new mix.
If using a mineral oil in the premix there should be a flushing cycle performed before filling the tank with a castor blend premix.
I just been using super tech from wal mart since its supposed to be made by quaker state. How do you flush it? Drain the tank and run a tank or two of synthetic?
Ideally it should be used at rebuild stage or after a complete flushing out of the crankcase.
The way I do it to a motor that has been using mineral oil, is to drain the tank and run a heavy Synthetic oil mix of 25:1 for 2 tanks.
Take note that if you change the fuel/oil ratio you must increase the main jet size and confirm by plug chopping.
I am one of few that continue to run bean oil at 25:1 for increased compression and lubrication.
It is perfectly ok to run it at 32:1, but changing back from the higher oil concentration will require the main jet to be adjusted.
The way I do it to a motor that has been using mineral oil, is to drain the tank and run a heavy Synthetic oil mix of 25:1 for 2 tanks.
Take note that if you change the fuel/oil ratio you must increase the main jet size and confirm by plug chopping.
I am one of few that continue to run bean oil at 25:1 for increased compression and lubrication.
It is perfectly ok to run it at 32:1, but changing back from the higher oil concentration will require the main jet to be adjusted.
No, castor oil is incredible stuff. Was used in WWI rotary engines. It has amazing properties. Do a Google search on it. Whale oil is another amazing oil. Petroleum oil is just plentiful, not necessarily the best stuff, and synthetic is not the end all either. Many endurance racers would rather run on a straight 30 or 50 weight oil than any synthetic or multigrade oil. Tribology is the study of wear, friction and lubrication. Often a natural wax or soap is a better lubricant than an oil or grease. It is an amazing field of study.
I gotta read up about this stuff it sounds amazing lol. Never really thought about non petroleum based engine oil and it has sparked my curiosity
Not that it has any importance what so ever...
But... It sure does smell nice (when it burns)! It really does. I think somebody should create an "after shave" that has the same smell.
But... It sure does smell nice (when it burns)! It really does. I think somebody should create an "after shave" that has the same smell.
clearly you havent rode on a right bend dynoport/trinity honestly no comparisons between these pipes. Not knockn dmc one bit it just doesn't have the pull like my dp. An yes my dmc was jetted correctly. I dont half ass stuff
