Am I in over my head???

onelocoblastard

New Member
Aug 3, 2011
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USA!!!
Hello everyone new to the site and new to blasters in general. I recently traded a 250 odyssey for non running blaster. The guy I traded said he was trying to rejet the carb but gave up said it wasnt worth his time any more. Im not sure how to tell what size the carb is but it has keihin stamped vertically down the side. It came with an organized box full of hex jets 80 thru 158, long round jets 38 to 68 and two long narrow things with 1470N and DGH stamped on them. My question is where do I start after the carb is off the engine and can anyone do this without any expensive tools? Its really a nice ride, Ill try and get some pics of the quad its self, it looks like he put some time into making look good but just lost intrest.
 
your not in over your head, but we need more info......
pics of the carb would help
carb size.. measure the inside diameter of the intake side with a metric ruler
and any other mods this bike may have ....pipe, air filter, airbox lid on or off ???
the box of jets will help, sounds like you have mains, pilots and needles,
which i run a "dgh" in my 34mm pj with a 45 pilot and a 155 main, but thats with my mods, yours may be different, but we can help you figure that out with the above info

you'll also wanna read, read, and re-read these few articles to help grasp this jetting .............

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/jetting-101-everything-explained-1625/

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/
 
lucky you, a whole set of jets and needles! put up some pics of the jet set and a list of needles you have. also put up pics of the carb
 
i was able to get the pics loaded to my albums in my control pannel take a look but every time i try to get them here it fails i might be doing somthing wrong "not real great with the whole internet thing" on both sides of the carb PJ is in raised lettering the ID of the carb (engine side) was just over 34mm inside the carb is a 1470N needle with a tiny clip in the middle of the needle the oblong needle holder has a 60 stamped on it a 55 pilot? and a 155 main? im trying to get ahold of the guy i made the deal with today to find out what mods have been done decals dont mean anything but there is UNI, Wiseco, V-force reed valve system, Mototassinari, Motion pro, T.M. designworks and Savage on it the air filter was attached to the carb about the size of a pringles can in diameter maybe 7" long if by "pipe" you mean exhaust theres no name on it theres a plate welded on the big portion closest to the engine close to the frame but its unreadable and the muffler has no ID either
 
Well you found a great resource. These guys know there stuff when it comes to blasters. Take a second and check out the links in my signature. I have a bunch of how to vids and basic maintenance vids and stuff like that. Hopefully it can help you out a bit.

Always a good idea to check the compression, do a trans fluid change, do a full inspection of the brakes and suspension on the quad.
 
lucky you, a whole set of jets and needles! put up some pics of the jet set and a list of needles you have. also put up pics of the carb

the jet kit has doubles of each main hex jet and doubles of the R1470N needle, doubles of the DGH needle, and only singles of the round long pilot jets
 
you said non running blaster ? did you do a compression test ? does it have spark ? even a wrong jetted carb should run to some extent. you do have to get it jetting right but first you need to know the basics about the blaster.
 
Well you got over $100 in jets close to $200, that's a 34 pj carb and it looks like you have a right bend pipe so like a f7. Can you get a pic of the pipe?
 
Well you found a great resource. These guys know there stuff when it comes to blasters. Take a second and check out the links in my signature. I have a bunch of how to vids and basic maintenance vids and stuff like that. Hopefully it can help you out a bit.

Always a good idea to check the compression, do a trans fluid change, do a full inspection of the brakes and suspension on the quad.

Thanks,

Ill def. refer bak to those vids.

I hate flippin through 160 pages of a book jus to find what im not lookin for or that has a drawn out explination that dont make any sence.

Well done by the way.
 
you said non running blaster ? did you do a compression test ? does it have spark ? even a wrong jetted carb should run to some extent. you do have to get it jetting right but first you need to know the basics about the blaster.

Ya it aint runnin at the moment, this morn. I put some fresh fuel in an kicked it over about 5 times and it didnt even try to start I plan on doin alil searchin and tinkerin with it tonite, its like 110 deg. in the shade rite now Ill start in on it when it cools off a bit
is there anything special used in a comp. test
 
Well you got over $100 in jets close to $200, that's a 34 pj carb and it looks like you have a right bend pipe so like a f7. Can you get a pic of the pipe?

ya Ill getem. youll have to go to my control pannel to see them for some reason
Are you serious he gave up that much in the jets alone? I gave 200 for the odyssey a few months ago
 
pipe pics are in ma control pannel still cant getem on here

Why would there be a tar like substance comming from the pipe? Theres a flange type sleeve that bolts to the engine then the pipe slides into the flange and a spring keeps the two together its comming from the sleeve and pipe joint its black, thick and sticky
 
probably a PJ34mm Keihin. nice find! you also have a right bend pipe with an adjustable expansion chamber, as far as i know, LRD made/make one. I know someone has one of these on here somewhere. right bends are good for top end.

someone has definately put a put of effort into the go faster bits on that thing. most probably is ported as well.
 
the sticky stuff is Spooge, normal for a 2 stroke, nothing to worry about, if its excessive and comes out the tail pipe you are waay to rich on the jetting front!

seems you need to first work out whats all been done to that bike. and do some vital tests such as leakdown tests and a compression test so we know where you are at.
 
probably a PJ34mm Keihin. nice find! you also have a right bend pipe with an adjustable expansion chamber, as far as i know, LRD made/make one. I know someone has one of these on here somewhere. right bends are good for top end.

someone has definately put a put of effort into the go faster bits on that thing. most probably is ported as well.


Does that mean i can make it longer or shorter for dif. style of riding?

Porting is good?

The faster the better!!! Now Im itchin to get out and get this thing runnin.
 
for a compression test you need a compression tester. hook it up. hold the throttle WIDE OPEN and kick it about 10 times. you should have close to 120 or better compression. after that i would check for spark. these are basic tests that should be done anytime something is not running. fuel compression and spark are very important
 
I really aint all that bumbed bout getin rid of the odyssey now that it sounds like this has more potential of bein a speed machine. My brother said I can get his comp. tester later on tonite when he gets home. Whats a good number to shoot for on the comp. test and what does it determine? How much pressure the engine case can handle before it blows a gasket? If I do have to get inside the engine what could I do to get the most out of it power wise with out having to burn race gas or alcohol? Im hopin I wont have to for a wile, but its somthin to think about later down the road.
 
looks like you got v force 3 reeds... ive never seen a pipe like that but its a right bend sorta looks like a old lrd, and yes main jets are like $6 each and pilots are like $6 and needles are $10 i think
 
for a compression test you need a compression tester. hook it up. hold the throttle WIDE OPEN and kick it about 10 times. you should have close to 120 or better compression. after that i would check for spark. these are basic tests that should be done anytime something is not running. fuel compression and spark are very important

Ok Ill do that first. So under 120 means somthins not good or goin bad on the inside? Im gonna need the carb on for the test right? NGK BR8ES for a plug?
 
SLOW DOWN and read. i told you what the compression should read and how to do the test. good compression "120 or better" means your top end is good. any lower then its tired and needs freshened up