I was told it might be a LRD adjustable expansion chamber said it was good for top end. Wow!!! I pretty much got the weeler for nothin. I paid 200 for the buggy a few months back.
Am I in over my head???
- Thread starter onelocoblastard
- Start date
I was told it might be a LRD adjustable expansion chamber said it was good for top end. Wow!!! I pretty much got the weeler for nothin. I paid 200 for the buggy a few months back.
yep, i have an lrd adjustable on my sons bike, word has it adjusting the expansion chamber doesnt do much, so i slammed his together tight and ride
as for the pj, sounds like i have a few more mods than this bike with my ken oconnor porting and head mod
again.............my pj is running a 45 pilot, dgh needle/middle clip position, and a 155 main
your pilot at least shouldnt be any bigger than mine, main will depend on elevation, i'm around 1800-2500
drop that pilot to a 45/48 and see if she'll fire, after the compression test,
and a leak down to check for airleaks, especially around the intake with vf3's
slickerthanyou sales them on here for a reasonable price, one should be in every 2 stroke owners toolbox
an airleak will fry your shizzle quicker than granny can fry bacon !!!!!!
as for the pj, sounds like i have a few more mods than this bike with my ken oconnor porting and head mod
again.............my pj is running a 45 pilot, dgh needle/middle clip position, and a 155 main
your pilot at least shouldnt be any bigger than mine, main will depend on elevation, i'm around 1800-2500
drop that pilot to a 45/48 and see if she'll fire, after the compression test,
and a leak down to check for airleaks, especially around the intake with vf3's
slickerthanyou sales them on here for a reasonable price, one should be in every 2 stroke owners toolbox
an airleak will fry your shizzle quicker than granny can fry bacon !!!!!!
Blaner
Your Friendly South African Ambassador
comp test will give an idication of the condition of the motor, the higher the reading, the healthier the motor.
you should really spend some time reading through posts on this forum to gain a bit of knowledge about what has been done to that bike, seems a lot to get a handle on cause it appears a lot has been done to it!
you should really spend some time reading through posts on this forum to gain a bit of knowledge about what has been done to that bike, seems a lot to get a handle on cause it appears a lot has been done to it!
OK just talked to the guy who i got it from, he said the crank and con. rod is still stock. On 3/29/11 he had it bored to 67.00, new piston, rings, bearing and wrist pin were installed. While the jug was bein bored he had them clean up the intake port (nothing extensive) the ports inside the jug were cleaned up (were the alum. cast meets the sleeve) those edges were cleaned up and the exhaust port was cleaned up and polished then the head was milled 10 down. The shop put the jug back on, he installed the engine and it was never ridden since. He sold the stock carb, bought the PJ 34 with the twist throttle, a 34-35mm intake boot and all the jets he thought would be nessary to get it goin again then lost intrest in it. Lookin at the old piston it has some pretty bad gouges towards the side with holes milled in it
Blaner
Your Friendly South African Ambassador
ok, seems legit but can you get invoices or contact the shop who did the bore to make sure. if thats true, the comp test should be good
Well luckly I have those pilots. Im not quite sure what the elevation here in S.E. kansas When my bro gets home I can get his comp. tester. Could the leak tester be pieced together from the local hardware store? I dont have a way to order stuff of the internet.
Ive got the papers from the shop and it looks like he spent alil pocket change getin it all done total amount of $345.89 for topend kit, bore, jug cleaning, assembly and what ever a oil block off kit is
Look around on here might be a thread on how to make a leakdown tester. Basically pretty simple, a cap to go over the pipe stub on ex, then a pvc cap to fit the intake boot with a Schrader valve (tire valve) and a tire pressur gauge. Never apply more than 6lbs to cyl. Should hold six lbs for six minutes.
Would i find most of what I need to know under the DIY or just kinda poke around abit? Ive got a note book im wrightn alot of this in so if I aint around a comp. I might still be able to limp by and make it home..lol
basically like pressurizing a gasline ina house before you initally turn the gas on
You got the idea!! If it doesn't hold pressure, pump it back up and use soapy water to find leak. If leak isn't external you need proper puller (20$) to pull flywheel. Last place would be crank seal inside clutch cover.
ive got one thing that concerns me about all of this.....done some readin and the inital breaking in process is to be done after a fresh topend rebuild would me tryin to jet the carb have any negitave effects on the process or should i just tryn jet it so itll idle for the first few steps of the process then work up cuz the guy this blasty came from said he never had it fired up since the rebuild
Blaner
Your Friendly South African Ambassador
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/build-use-leakdown-tester-10663/
herewith, a leak tester diy.
slow down bud, one thing at a time!
herewith, a leak tester diy.
slow down bud, one thing at a time!
Had some spare time today did the comp. test and ended up with 130 Now working on putting the leak tester together Should be able to test it here in a bit and see what I end up with
i would jet bigger then come down from there. lean is where you run into problems. break in an engine? whats that??? hahah just kidding. your not gonna beat the hell out of it though the beak in time and your going to do a few heat cycles and re-torque your jug and head bolts.you should not have an issue but i would not play with jetting untill after you break in the top end
you are mixing the gas and oil correct?
that oil block off kit means you dont have oil injection anymore.
that oil block off kit means you dont have oil injection anymore.
32:1
Suprisingly I didnt find any leaks and it does have spark So tomarow Im gonna get a handfull of plugs and try to get it to fire
Suprisingly I didnt find any leaks and it does have spark So tomarow Im gonna get a handfull of plugs and try to get it to fire
remember on that pj...45/48 pilot will get it running enuf to do some light 1/2 throttle revs to completely warmed up for heat cycles, 3-5 is good, let cool completely between them
130psi is ok, it should jump a few psi after the rings seat during heat cycles
130psi is ok, it should jump a few psi after the rings seat during heat cycles
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