AWK08 has a wonderful brake setup, and I am glad that hehas plenty of work but sad he is working so hard he does not have time for his passion. Hopefully they will balance.
I don't wish to distract from the excellent design AWK has worked out, but there are other options.
I respectively disagree about the floating Cali/rotor you can use a floating rotor and floating caliper together. In fact it makes it easier to fabricobble. You don't have to be very accurate. I used both together on mine. Didn't mean to put this in the middle but won't move it. SORRY
This is the same setup I used, Banshee/Warrior/Raptor caliper and master cylinder:
There is no cable park brake on this setup but no reason it could not be used.
This setup is for floating rotor.
The drilled rotor was done on my drill press and seems to work well.
Banshee/Warrior/Raptor master cylinder on a once cable braked Blaster.
Wire cable-guard and cable eye removed as well as back half of mount.
Almost a pound of steel removed, still weighs over 2 lbs.
Lever straightened to gain length and leverage to more easily lock back wheels.
There are 2 types of rotors on Blaster, fixed and floating.
You need a fixed caliper on a floating rotor, and a floating caliper on a fixed rotor.
In the above picts you can see the floating caliper has been fixed with the home fabricated mounting plate.
This is a Ninja 250 caliper setup that would work for a fixed rotor
The problem with this is that you do need the complete package, axle (for the fixed disk mount) and the bearing carrier for its caliper mount. To convert a cable Blaster the setup I picture at top only needs the master cylinder, line and caliper.
Your best bet is to buy the parts you are needing new or used, such as on Ebay. The line is often best bought new. My systems above are all built using used parts bought quite cheap, less than $50.
Steve
2002 rear brake conversion
- Thread starter taillight
- Start date
AWK08 has a wonderful brake setup, and I am glad that hehas plenty of work but sad he is working so hard he does not have time for his passion. Hopefully they will balance.
I don't wish to distract from the excellent design AWK has worked out, but there are other options.
To lazy to move/retype
I respectively disagree about the floating Cali/rotor you can use a floating rotor and floating caliper together. In fact it makes it easier to fabricobble. You don't have to be very accurate. I used both together on mine. Didn't mean to put this in the middle but won't move it. SORRY
This is the same setup I used, Banshee/Warrior/Raptor caliper and master cylinder:
There is no cable park brake on this setup but no reason it could not be used.
This setup is for floating rotor.
The drilled rotor was done on my drill press and seems to work well.
Banshee/Warrior/Raptor master cylinder on a once cable braked Blaster.
Wire cable-guard and cable eye removed as well as back half of mount.
Almost a pound of steel removed, still weighs over 2 lbs.
Lever straightened to gain length and leverage to more easily lock back wheels.
There are 2 types of rotors on Blaster, fixed and floating.
You need a fixed caliper on a floating rotor, and a floating caliper on a fixed rotor.
In the above picts you can see the floating caliper has been fixed with the home fabricated mounting plate.
This is a Ninja 250 caliper setup that would work for a fixed rotor
The problem with this is that you do need the complete package, axle (for the fixed disk mount) and the bearing carrier for its caliper mount. To convert a cable Blaster the setup I picture at top only needs the master cylinder, line and caliper.
Your best bet is to buy the parts you are needing new or used, such as on Ebay. The line is often best bought new. My systems above are all built using used parts bought quite cheap, less than $50.
Steve
[/QUOTE]
I also weld a short tab onto the brake lever to connect the M/C rod. From experience, the shorter the better. < this is key, that was my mistake, improper leverage to MC
As for the brake cylinder, the stock 2003+ Blaster uses fixed (rigidly mounted) disk and a slider on the caliper. Remove the caliper slider plate because you will be counting on the sliding disk and mounting the caliper rigidly to this location:
I used the floating caliper with the floating disc no problems
Using a plate like this:
As you can see, these pictures came off several different Blasters. The mod has gotten easier every time I do one. The drilled rotor is a DIY project as well.
In retrospect I think my problem is either a weak caliper or master cylinder. They came of a well worn Warrior
[/QUOTE]
I also weld a short tab onto the brake lever to connect the M/C rod. From experience, the shorter the better. < this is key, that was my mistake, improper leverage to MC
As for the brake cylinder, the stock 2003+ Blaster uses fixed (rigidly mounted) disk and a slider on the caliper. Remove the caliper slider plate because you will be counting on the sliding disk and mounting the caliper rigidly to this location:
I used the floating caliper with the floating disc no problems
Using a plate like this:
As you can see, these pictures came off several different Blasters. The mod has gotten easier every time I do one. The drilled rotor is a DIY project as well.
In retrospect I think my problem is either a weak caliper or master cylinder. They came of a well worn Warrior
How to mount the caliper to the frame but I see I have to fabricate one but I think I'll be able to do it
Hi Awk,
I've been scouring the net working to understand how to do a brake conversion on my 01 blaster for the rear. (presently has no brakes and no pedal.) If you're still in the business of making and selling kits I'm certainly interested. If not, would you be willing to share some specs?
I could cnc a mount or two if needed. I have a warrior brake caliper but I'd need an 03-06 carrier or fabbed mount I believe for that aspect.
Finally the pedal. I do have an 01 cable pull pedal setup which would seem to need to be extended.
I can do the work but if you're still in the game I'd rather support to great work folks here have said you can do.
I've been scouring the net working to understand how to do a brake conversion on my 01 blaster for the rear. (presently has no brakes and no pedal.) If you're still in the business of making and selling kits I'm certainly interested. If not, would you be willing to share some specs?
I could cnc a mount or two if needed. I have a warrior brake caliper but I'd need an 03-06 carrier or fabbed mount I believe for that aspect.
Finally the pedal. I do have an 01 cable pull pedal setup which would seem to need to be extended.
I can do the work but if you're still in the game I'd rather support to great work folks here have said you can do.
All you need to do is make any old mount to slap the caliper on the disk. It can be as fancy or plain as you want. Than the master needs to be mounted to frame along with modding the brake pedal. I think the easiest and hands down cleanest way to go about it but the most expensive is to get a round carrier swingarm.. ditch the crap Yamaha design. Get a banshee rear end.. carrier, axle, brake caliper mount and brake disk hub. Than along with adding the master to frame it’s the cleanest most oem way to go.. that’s the direction I’m heading very soon. Have 80% of the parts as of now.
i have seen some video of people using full warrior stuff. with warrior footpeg, pedal, master cylinder, rear brake caliper. actually works pretty well.
i seen some CIT kits (american i think) but like 250$ so a bit expensive..
i recenly modded mine. i mean it was half done, front brake were done it are warrior disk brakes and hubs and ball joint are welded by someone
rear they made the mounths have the caliper but brake line was shot and they mounted the master cylnder infront of the pedal in a angle verry odd.
i just replaced it and mounted it to the frame no welds, and welded a straight piece on metal on the pedal. works great. i will make a post so futur people can see it. here is a quick picture
this my new one from a pit bike 125 i had laying around
this one works it was locked up i toke it apart cleaned it sanded it a bit and butter smooth now, might be lesss strong of a mount the my other setup but what ever it workss am happy
This was my first try, but the master cylinder was shot i couldnt get any pressure tried for 2 days. this master cylinder was take off a adly 300 quad. again no weldss to the frame (only weld is the part on the brake pedal)
the brake calipe, i removed the rubber screw and replaced it with a solid one dont know why i was trying to figure out why i didnt have braking power. mmight put the floating thing back in.
i seen some CIT kits (american i think) but like 250$ so a bit expensive..
i recenly modded mine. i mean it was half done, front brake were done it are warrior disk brakes and hubs and ball joint are welded by someone
rear they made the mounths have the caliper but brake line was shot and they mounted the master cylnder infront of the pedal in a angle verry odd.
i just replaced it and mounted it to the frame no welds, and welded a straight piece on metal on the pedal. works great. i will make a post so futur people can see it. here is a quick picture
this my new one from a pit bike 125 i had laying around
this one works it was locked up i toke it apart cleaned it sanded it a bit and butter smooth now, might be lesss strong of a mount the my other setup but what ever it workss am happy
This was my first try, but the master cylinder was shot i couldnt get any pressure tried for 2 days. this master cylinder was take off a adly 300 quad. again no weldss to the frame (only weld is the part on the brake pedal)
the brake calipe, i removed the rubber screw and replaced it with a solid one dont know why i was trying to figure out why i didnt have braking power. mmight put the floating thing back in.
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