2002 rear brake conversion

[Tankbuster]

Hey Tankbuster, Awk was pretty open about what he used for parts and what he supplied in posts to this site.

His braking system has a bit more mechanical advantage than mine, eg, it takes less toe pressure to lock on the brakes. I'm in the same boat as AWK, too busy to sell parts, but I will share my design. I use a Yamaha rear caliper for a 2003+ Blaster, Banshee, Warrior etc, without the slider frame. This works great with the pre-2003 sliding disk. For the master cylinder I've used a variety of small bike and quad master cylinders, all seem adaptable. Have a look at the adapters I use, easy to fabricate.

The brake arm needs to be bent and a tab welded on and drilled for the M/C rod.

I realized it after... felt kinda dumb. Im not not much on fabbing things. i will study pics closer. Looks like it might be that difficult. Thanks Best.

 

[Tankbuster]

Hey Tankbuster, Awk was pretty open about what he used for parts and what he supplied in posts to this site.

His braking system has a bit more mechanical advantage than mine, eg, it takes less toe pressure to lock on the brakes. I'm in the same boat as AWK, too busy to sell parts, but I will share my design. I use a Yamaha rear caliper for a 2003+ Blaster, Banshee, Warrior etc, without the slider frame. This works great with the pre-2003 sliding disk. For the master cylinder I've used a variety of small bike and quad master cylinders, all seem adaptable. Have a look at the adapters I use, easy to fabricate.

The brake arm needs to be bent and a tab welded on and drilled for the M/C rod.

I realized it after... felt kinda dumb. Im not not much on fabbing things. i will study pics closer. Looks like it might not be that difficult. Thanks Best.

 

[Scott Palmer]

I realized it after... felt kinda dumb. Im not not much on fabbing things. i will study pics closer. Looks like it might not be that difficult. Thanks Best.

I am planning on doing one of these swaps myself and am hoping that I can do it. I got the parts loaded up ready to be ordered and hoping for the best but preparing for the worst. Thank you for reading have a good day/ night. Here is the link to my good doc if you are interested to see my parts list just scroll down a bit and there it is (Its labeled brakes and stuff).
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1RmFsA4cpDaTAvjggQ_QIse0Z6u4fJhN6R3ws1yvzV-k/edit?usp=sharing

 

[best]

Do not use the K&N air filter if you are running off road. Too much dirt gets through.
Think about a head mod as your first and possibly only engine mod. Even before and instead of a pipe.
The 400EX shock is recommended, don't bother with the Banshee shocks unless they are free.
ATF is a fine and cheap transmission fluid.
Large diameter tires deliver clearance and suspension if it is offroad capability you want.
3" raised steering stem and 3" swing arm extension will make this into a "6'man-sized" unit.

 

[Scott Palmer]

Do not use the K&N air filter if you are running off road. Too much dirt gets through.
Think about a head mod as your first and possibly only engine mod. Even before and instead of a pipe.
The 400EX shock is recommended, don't bother with the Banshee shocks unless they are free.
ATF is a fine and cheap transmission fluid.
Large diameter tires deliver clearance and suspension if it is offroad capability you want.
3" raised steering stem and 3" swing arm extension will make this into a "6'man-sized" unit.

 

[best]

Sorry Scott, I originally did not see the links.
I cannot vouch for the quality of this seller, but yes, that is the right caliper to use.

Remove the gold coloured slider frame and the silver colored park brake cap and bolt it to the solid adapter I made up with the park brake cap screws. I made the adapter out of 1/4" steel but 1/4" aluminum or thinner steel would work.

The caliper is now rigid and the earlier sliding disk will work fine with it.

The Blaster/Banshee/Warrior Master cylinder will work, I have used them, but has a large diameter cylinder and takes a lot of toe pressure to lock the rear disk. I had better luck with a master cylinder for Chinese 50cc/90cc ATV/Quad.

Also note the tab welded onto the lever was shortened up considerably and M/C angled toward the lever to improve leverage.

I don't think the 2003+ lever is a a bolt on. I modded the older lever in all cases.

 

[Scott Palmer]

Sorry Scott, I originally did not see the links.
I cannot vouch for the quality of this seller, but yes, that is the right caliper to use.

Remove the gold coloured slider frame and the silver colored park brake cap and bolt it to the solid adapter I made up with the park brake cap screws. I made the adapter out of 1/4" steel but 1/4" aluminum or thinner steel would work.

The caliper is now rigid and the earlier sliding disk will work fine with it.

The Blaster/Banshee/Warrior Master cylinder will work, I have used them, but has a large diameter cylinder and takes a lot of toe pressure to lock the rear disk. I had better luck with a master cylinder for Chinese 50cc/90cc ATV/Quad.

Also note the tab welded onto the lever was shortened up considerably and M/C angled toward the lever to improve leverage.

I don't think the 2003+ lever is a a bolt on. I modded the older lever in all cases.

Thank you for all this info I have changed my decision on the rear master cylinder with you said and I am going with this one
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UF68W2M/?tag=jyj356j5-20
I have to do some research on the brake lever I'm thinking that it will mount up but from you said prob not. I could try and modify the original as you said. Do you think that is the best choice for me?

 

[best]

I cannot tell you from here Scott. It has been a few years since I put this stuff together.

It typically takes some experimentation, which is why folks charge more than the sum of the parts. If there is not enough profit from selling the completed kit, folks stop selling them.

 

[Scott Palmer]

I cannot tell you from here Scott. It has been a few years since I put this stuff together.

It typically takes some experimentation, which is why folks charge more than the sum of the parts. If there is not enough profit from selling the completed kit, folks stop selling them.

Yes, it will take a lot of trials an error and I'm hoping that I could help out some people with this. The amount of money needed to figure out correct specs will be hard but I will try my hardest. Thank you for all your help and if there are any more tips I will take them. Thank you again.

 

[best]

Hi Scott, someone has trimmed the cable mount (that I use as an M/C bracket lower mount) from your frame. Compare inside the blue circle in picts:

I also weld a short tab onto the brake lever to connect the M/C rod. From experience, the shorter the better. Make the cylinder bracket quite wide and you can lay the cylinder closer to horizontal for even better leverage. The M/C rod does not mount to the area circled in red, you need to weld on a small tab. Mild steel, it weld very easily.

As for the brake cylinder, the stock 2003+ Blaster uses fixed (rigidly mounted) disk and a slider on the caliper. Remove the caliper slider plate because you will be counting on the sliding disk and mounting the caliper rigidly to this location:

Using a plate like this:

As you can see, these pictures came off several different Blasters. The mod has gotten easier every time I do one. The drilled rotor is a DIY project as well.

 

[Larry's Shee]

I also weld a short tab onto the brake lever to connect the M/C rod. From experience, the shorter the better. < this is key, that was my mistake, improper leverage to MC

As for the brake cylinder, the stock 2003+ Blaster uses fixed (rigidly mounted) disk and a slider on the caliper. Remove the caliper slider plate because you will be counting on the sliding disk and mounting the caliper rigidly to this location:
I used the floating caliper with the floating disc no problems

Using a plate like this:

As you can see, these pictures came off several different Blasters. The mod has gotten easier every time I do one. The drilled rotor is a DIY project as well.[/QUOTE]

 

[Scott Palmer]

I also weld a short tab onto the brake lever to connect the M/C rod. From experience, the shorter the better. < this is key, that was my mistake, improper leverage to MC

As for the brake cylinder, the stock 2003+ Blaster uses fixed (rigidly mounted) disk and a slider on the caliper. Remove the caliper slider plate because you will be counting on the sliding disk and mounting the caliper rigidly to this location:
I used the floating caliper with the floating disc no problems

Using a plate like this:

As you can see, these pictures came off several different Blasters. The mod has gotten easier every time I do one. The drilled rotor is a DIY project as well.

[/QUOTE]
Ok cool, thank you so much I feel a lot more confident going into this now.

 

[Scott Palmer]

Hi Scott, someone has trimmed the cable mount (that I use as an M/C bracket lower mount) from your frame. Compare inside the blue circle in picts:

I also weld a short tab onto the brake lever to connect the M/C rod. From experience, the shorter the better. Make the cylinder bracket quite wide and you can lay the cylinder closer to horizontal for even better leverage. The M/C rod does not mount to the area circled in red, you need to weld on a small tab. Mild steel, it weld very easily.

As for the brake cylinder, the stock 2003+ Blaster uses fixed (rigidly mounted) disk and a slider on the caliper. Remove the caliper slider plate because you will be counting on the sliding disk and mounting the caliper rigidly to this location:

Using a plate like this:

As you can see, these pictures came off several different Blasters. The mod has gotten easier every time I do one. The drilled rotor is a DIY project as well.

Hey Best, Here is my parts list that I am buying... What do you think?

Brake Line: https://www.ebay.com/itm/STREAMLINE...h=item543bbcfbc0:g:XEMAAOSwal5YB~jJ:rk:7:pf:0

Caliper: https://www.ebay.com/itm/222162944150

Master Cylinder: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-brake...h=item3d7d3f35e9:g:TBQAAOSw5i5cGbyd:rk:1:pf:0

 

[best]

Yes, look like the parts I'd use. The gold bracket on the caliper gets removed and thrown away. I can use just about any Master Cylinder and all you need out of a hose is the right length and bolt size, AS I RECALL. AWK's setup uses different caliper and mount, but is a similar set up.

I do believe AWK's setup has more piston area so it has more braking force, easier to lock up the rear wheels.

My setup with the Yamaha caliper takes takes a firm toe to lock up or hold by rear alone on a steep hill. No problem to slide the rear around, but it won't happen by accident.

 

[Scott Palmer]

Yes, look like the parts I'd use. The gold bracket on the caliper gets removed and thrown away. I can use just about any Master Cylinder and all you need out of a hose is the right length and bolt size, AS I RECALL. AWK's setup uses different caliper and mount, but is a similar set up.

I do believe AWK's setup has more piston area so it has more braking force, easier to lock up the rear wheels.

My setup with the Yamaha caliper takes takes a firm toe to lock up or hold by rear alone on a steep hill. No problem to slide the rear around, and it won't happen by accident.

Ok sick I can’t wait!!!!!

 

[mattd68]

Hi AWK08 I hope your radar is on
Could you please send me pm with information about rear brake hydro?

Thank you.

 

[dirteracer85]

message sent with full info

Can I get info on rest break set up

 

[Slydog]

Can I get info on rest break set up

It's explained fairly well. If you read all the posts and the pics give you an idea of the bracket setups.if you can do alittle fabrication then it's really cheap to do.

 

[DrDaywalker]

I followed this thread to do the conversion and am having issues with the caliper actually moving. Can you send a picture of the backside with it mounted and bolts in also with the amount of actual pads coming in contact with the rotor. From the angle at it’s positioned it looks like only about half of the pads will be clamping on the rotor. I had to go further back to get it to be more flush and get full pad on it. I wanted to add photos but the site is saying they are too big even when I take them from within the thread. Any help would be appreciated

 

[Slydog]

I followed this thread to do the conversion and am having issues with the caliper actually moving. Can you send a picture of the backside with it mounted and bolts in also with the amount of actual pads coming in contact with the rotor. From the angle at it’s positioned it looks like only about half of the pads will be clamping on the rotor. I had to go further back to get it to be more flush and get full pad on it. I wanted to add photos but the site is saying they are too big even when I take them from within the thread. Any help would be appreciated

You have to resize the pics.you can make the bracket different.that gives you just an idea of how it was done. Simple setup and it works But yes you have to turn caliper to get the right angle for pad to rotor contact.
Make sure the center hole where the pin sticks out between bolt holes is not to tight it moves. Alittle!!! Sealant and put the original cover back on with longer bolts to keep shat out