05 Blaster Crankshaft Problem HELP (Pics)

[blasterboy44]

Was riding my Blaster over some soft sand, no problem when I heard a sharp grinding sound and lost all power from the bike. After the bike had come to a rolling stop I tried to kick start it however the kick start was seized and will not move but a small amount. I have already taken off the kick start cover and inspected all the gears INCLUDING the kick start gear and still did not find anything wrong.

BOTTOM LINE,There are small burn marks on the sides of the crankshaft and the crankshaft is completely seized which i think may be the problem. Click the pics to enlarge them.

 

[yamaha28]

is the crank rod frozen?

 

[brandoz28]

does the rod move back and forth? if so that's probably not the issue. the issue is most likely to lie within the main side bearings


what did the piston look like? was it broken?

 

[blasterboy44]

(First off let me say im new to any kind of maintenance) I do not know what you mean by is the crank frozen, but if you mean stuck, then yes it is. The rod does not move back and forth and the piston looks fine, it isn't broken from what I can tell.

 

[yamaha28]

Frozen or stuck, just two different ways of saying that the crank bearing is no good. The rod should be able to move freely. Sorry to say the motor has to be taken completely apart to get to the crank. Then send the crank out to get a new bearing. It's kinda complicated if you are new to mechanics haha

 

[blasterboy44]

Do I have to send the crank out to get a new bearing? Two of my friends are good mechanics and could probably put it on given new bearings, which brings me to my next question, can I order a new bearing specifically for my blaster and just have my friends install it? Or is it just impossible or insanely difficult to take apart the engine and install?

 

[Budget_Blaster]

Looks like its a good time to upgrade.Id go aftermarket say +3 stroker.

Or at the very least a stock spec'ed stuffer crank.

I wonder how that happened unless you were lean.I just did the bottom end on the gf;s blaster because it sounded like a rock crusher at idle but the bearings even as nasty as they were and pitted they turned.

Post pics when you get it apart.

Get a manual and have at it.

 

[blasterboy44]

Alright will do, now just gotta get the friends on board lol.

 

[Larry's Shee]

I think you will find it's not cost effective to rebuild the crank, it takes lots more than a hammer. It's a very precision unit (.001 tolerance) Either buy a Clymers or get download your mechanic will need it. You'll need it later for maintenance.

You also have to figure out WHY it quit, if other than just wore out X(. Was a good air filter in place? No holes between filter and carb? Check everything closely. I:I

 

[super noober]

I think you will find it's not cost effective to rebuild the crank, it takes lots more than a hammer. It's a very precision unit (.001 tolerance) Either buy a Clymers or get download your mechanic will need it. You'll need it later for maintenance.

You also have to figure out WHY it quit, if other than just wore out X(. Was a good air filter in place? No holes between filter and carb? Check everything closely. I:I

^^^^^ good advise, imho i would go +3 stroker as well for a replacement

 

[Blaaster]

Unless you have washed the motor down on the inside it looks very dry of oil.

Do you pre mix gas and to what ratio, or is the oil injection still fitted, and if it is, have you flipped the bike or has the tank run out of oil at some time.

 

[Awk08]

rebuilding and installing a crank is not for the inexperienced
your freinds are also gonna need a $75 tusk crank puller, a 2 jaw puller to split the cases and a $15 flywheel puller
a press and proper size dowels to split and reassemble the crank,
a set of bench centers and dial indicators for aligning and trueing the crank, plus the cost of the bearings

way more cost effective to have someone like ken oconnor rebuild your crank (or buy new) and install it for you, versus you buying all those tools for a one time deal and possibly the crank failing again if not done properly

 

[slickerthanyou]

The second pics looks lik chucks of aluminum on top of the case where the cylinder sits in. Gonna need pulled apart. That last pic looks like the left side of the crank web is touching the case! Not good, spun bearing due to lack of oil. I would do what AWK suggests or find a used good bottom end somewhere!

 

[Budget_Blaster]

rebuilding and installing a crank is not for the inexperienced
your freinds are also gonna need a $75 tusk crank puller, a 2 jaw puller to split the cases and a $15 flywheel puller
a press and proper size dowels to split and reassemble the crank,
a set of bench centers and dial indicators for aligning and trueing the crank, plus the cost of the bearings

way more cost effective to have someone like ken oconnor rebuild your crank (or buy new) and install it for you, versus you buying all those tools for a one time deal and possibly the crank failing again if not done properly

fo' shizzle!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!i:i

 

[sicivicdude]

If the crankcase bearings (which support the crankshaft but are not pressed into the crankshaft) are bad, your buddies can probably handle it. They need some of the basic tool any mechanic will need plus a torch and seal driver set.

From the pics, it doesn't look like the crankshaft is blown out.

If the crankshaft is out of factory specifications, rebuiding it yourself is a MAJOR undertaking. Getting it rebuilt doesn't have to be that expensive though:

http://www.blasterforum.com/sale-18/crankshaft-rebuilds-42099/

$99 shipped back to you.