03-06 wiring question

Progress, swapped in a new coil and wire, same result. It's either the stator, screwed up wiring, or CDI bad.

I went through all the wiring, couldn't find any breaks all wires have continuity even if I wiggle the harness. I have BOTH tors connections soldered, parking brake left unplugged, and all the lighting unplugged.


As before I have tried every combination, from one set of tors soldered to, soldering the parking brake, jumping the brake switches, leaving it all unplugged no solder.

It just has to be the CDI or the stator.

Frustrating when you can't figure something out that should be so simple, isn't it? Start with the CDI. If the stator was to go, it would be gone, there is no intermittent weakening of stators. You either have a short in it, or you don't.
 
Hey man in not to smart with these things but I was having the same symptoms you were after I built mine it would start first like but idle like sh*t requiring a little gas and bogg down with to much. Every jet I tried maid no difference more unplugging tors. after a while I replaced my key way for the rotor. And also put new reeds in it.and that fixed the problem.so I believe you mentioned that your rotor rotations were low. Wouldn't that cause low output of current. Also my local auto part store here in the north west sells a spark tester that you plug from your boot to the plug with a clear tube so you can watch the spark jump like a giant fuse ( best description I don't know what its called. This mite not be any help but it's a guess.
 
One good note the stator is under a year warranty! However i don't think that is my problem. If it would stop raining every hour I'd be able to do some work on it!

I got a new source coil soldered on, and ohms out good at 228Ω. However I'm still having a no start issue, the only change from when i was up in conneticut is i ran the 88-02 electrics and stator.

I'm beginning to wonder if the timing marks on this piece of sh*t adjustable plate are incorrect.

I tried it from the 0 timing mark, lined it up with the factory stator, up to +10 and then back at -10 Yes I took my flywheel off 23 times,-wasted friday and saturday all day- and could not get that bastard to work with the 05 electrics. I double checked, all the tors bullcrap all soldered connections, parking brake switch is unhooked. I have to be missing something, I'm gonna put that 88-02 stator in and see if the 05 wiring will work . This is pissing me off! Thanks for letting and ole man vent! I:I
 
Slick, I've been reading along on this thread and watched the video.

Just so we're clear, you're running the complete 2005 electrical system, correct? Five-wire stator and unitized CDI box/TORS brain?

I removed the TORS system completely from my 2005 Blaster, and I finally figured out how to do it properly, but while I was playing with wiring and having problems, I experienced exactly what you're dealing with in the video.

Its not the carburetor, gas, or fuel system.

I think you've forgotten the green wire.

To override the TORS system on 2003 + Blasters, you have to ground out the green wire coming off the stator plate. The way I understand it, the green wire serves as the 'trigger' for the TORS system built into the CDI box. When you ground out the green wire, the TORS loses its signal and ceases to operate.

Find the five wires coming off the stator plate. Unhook the green wire and ground it out to the engine or frame with a jumper wire. Be sure all the connections to the switches you removed are open (no wires twisted together). Try the kicker again. I bet it will run fine now, and you can make that temporary ground connection more permanent.

I'm not 100% sure this is your problem, but it needs to be checked and this got me fixed in time to go riding! :D
 
Slick, I've been reading along on this thread and watched the video.

Just so we're clear, you're running the complete 2005 electrical system, correct? Five-wire stator and unitized CDI box/TORS brain?

I removed the TORS system completely from my 2005 Blaster, and I finally figured out how to do it properly, but while I was playing with wiring and having problems, I experienced exactly what you're dealing with in the video.

Its not the carburetor, gas, or fuel system.

I think you've forgotten the green wire.

To override the TORS system on 2003 + Blasters, you have to ground out the green wire coming off the stator plate. The way I understand it, the green wire serves as the 'trigger' for the TORS system built into the CDI box. When you ground out the green wire, the TORS loses its signal and ceases to operate.

Find the five wires coming off the stator plate. Unhook the green wire and ground it out to the engine or frame with a jumper wire. Be sure all the connections to the switches you removed are open (no wires twisted together). Try the kicker again. I bet it will run fine now, and you can make that temporary ground connection more permanent.

I'm not 100% sure this is your problem, but it needs to be checked and this got me fixed in time to go riding! :D

Yes sir I am using the stock 05 complete wiring with a five wire new adjustable stator.

So that is what they mean by rotor rotation in the book?
But sh*t! So the two wires I spliced and soldered together (carb switch and throttle switch respectively), just stay unplugged?
 
Yes sir I am using the stock 05 complete wiring with a five wire new adjustable stator.

So that is what they mean by rotor rotation in the book?
But sh*t! So the two wires I spliced and soldered together (carb switch and throttle switch respectively), just stay unplugged?

Yeah, they stay unplugged. I cut all my extra TORS wiring out on my Blaster. In fact, I treated it just like an '88-'02 machine until I realized it wouldn't run with just the wiring cut out. Lol. I actually learned of the green wire ground trick later by reading up on here. After I grounded the green wire out, it ran fine. I have all the TORS wiring and the low oil warning light wiring removed on my bike.

I'm not sure about the "rotor rotaion" mentioned in the book, except I'm assuming they're talking about the direction of rotation of the flywheel (AKA ignition rotor). That won't matter when talking about the TORS system, or your running problem. It would only come into play when talking about ignition timing, and I doubt that's your problem. Even a severely out-of-time engine will rev better in neutral than what you're experiencing.
 
Dammit! Ok, well thank you for the tip! I hope that is the issue. I have been chasing my tail on this one. So you removed all the tors wiring from your harness? Just by deleting the carb and throttle switch wires, and grounding the stator green wire, You left the green wire on the harness side just hang or snipped that at the cdi box?
 
Dammit! Ok, well thank you for the tip! I hope that is the issue. I have been chasing my tail on this one. So you removed all the tors wiring from your harness? Just by deleting the carb and throttle switch wires, and grounding the stator green wire, You left the green wire on the harness side just hang or snipped that at the cdi box?

I cut my green wire off at the CDI box, but to keep the wiring harness looking neat, I simply cut the other half of the green wire off about halfway up to the CDI box and spliced it into the rest of the main chassis ground wires (black wires). That way, you still have the five wires coming out of the stator, and all of them connect to something. The green wire just grounds out internally, inside the taped-up wiring harness.
 
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I cut my green wire off at the CDI box, but to keep the wiring harness looking neat, I simply cut the other half of the green wire off about halfway up to the CDI box and spliced it into the rest of the main chassis ground wires (black wires). That way, you still have the five wires coming out of the stator, and all of them connect to something. The green wire just grounds out internally, inside the taped-up wiring harness.

I got ya! There will be a six-pack of cold ones for you at awks ride! What is your poison? max rep to ya!
 
Lol, well wait until you get it fixed before getting too generous with the brew!

I'm not too picky on what I drink. Bud Light works, or maybe something thats a PA favorite that we just don't see here in NC. I'm just a good 'ol country boy here.
 
Ok problem solved fellas. And before I say what the problem was, I will say what i did that DID NOT WORK!

As braaptor said, I unsoldered my jumpers, and left them just hang, grounded the green wire from the stator. Crack open a brewski, took a swig, one kick , two kicks- four, five -nothing, so I went over all the connections- all good, then checked for spark, NO SPARK! The source coil and the trigger coil all ohmed out with in specs, but I was getting nothing no spark at all. WTF! WTF! WTF! Temper starting to flare, took a step back, finish my brewski, open #2! Swapped over to the 88-02 harness, same result, well that is a good thing, because it leaves only two possibilities, the nology coil/wire assembly, (which worked flawlessly in conneticut witrh a factory 88-02 stator). Or it is that adjustable stator, the pick up coil has to be the culprit as i already changed the source coil , i stole it off of a good stator i had. Easiest thing is hook up the spare ign coil and try that before ripping the flywheel off for the umteenth time! new ricks motor sport stator, wire and boot! Same result, well only one thing left the stator, swapped in the factory stator, First mother f'n kick it fired right up with the old 88-02 wiring, now for the real test, put the 05 harnedd and electronics back on, all tors connections left unplugged as well as parking brake sensor, and first kick she fire right up! YAHOO!

Moral of the story, going the cheap way ( new $79 dollar adjustable complete stator), was a mistake, I should of just bought the high output coil and rebuilt my stock stator!


So to remove the tors on a 03+ wiring harness using a 4 wire stator 88-02 unplug all connections DO NOT SPLICE! Leave the green wire coming from wire harness- which actually goes to the CDI/tors box hang No grounding necessary!

I refuse to give up on that adjustable stator, I am going to solder on a new pickup coil and try it. I will follow up as to how that works, may not happen this week, witrh grad parties and the holidays. Stay tuned!
 
An update! I soldered a know good pick up coil on the adjustable plate, and still the same problem! Fuk that piece of sh*t! I'm sticking with Stock plate, and 75watt lighting coil. That is what works and thats what she gets. No advance timing, don't need it!

So, If anyone has a 03+ good five wire stock stator, I can borrow, I promise, I won't molest it, I want to see if a stock five wire will produce the same result as this four wire! Pm me I will pay shipping both ways!

-slick


PS: Braaptor, Oh it will be running and ready fo sho!