00 blaster runs only after being strangled

2Strokenit

Member
Feb 24, 2016
15
1
34
37
Strangled yess. I have to run the sh*t out of it fully choked for 10 minutes or more. Then an only then will it run without being choked. Any have an idea of what can be causing this.

Back story. Just picked this up a few weeks ago. From a guy who had it sitting in his garage for the past few years. I kicked it over before purchase, but had limited running power and a lot of sputtering. I chalked that up to dirty carb. First thing I did was remove the oil from the oiler. (Guy was running 40:1 premix along with the fully functional oiler). Cleaned the carb. Still wasn't running completely right. Bypassed the tors. Finally it has some balls. But lower rpms = pee wee Herman while getting into the power band = hulk. This Was All After getting it To Run unchoked. Any ideas?
 
Describe EXACTLY how you cleaned carb. Set the float?
Have you done ANY othey maintenance?
Amy mods? What jets were in carb?

I pulled the bottom float bowl off and pulled the guts. ( jet, pin and float barrels). Then ran a micro wire thread thru every port I could find. Then a blast of compressed air. Followed by running premixed gas down the ports and holes to give a rinse. Then one more air blast and reassembled.

As I reassembled and put the carb back into place. I noticed that the air box manifold was soaked in oil. I cleaned that up and reassembled. First few kicks didn't start. After that it barely had enough power to get moving. Tors was blocked off(jumper wired) and it ran. But now I can't get it running 100%.

I did notice on the slider for my choke the sleeve does show some wear and tear. Is that a possible concern for air leak?

As for any other maintenance.
Just bought thumb throttle and new cable, drained and refilled gear oil, good power wash, re zip tie wire harness to keep it off the exhaust. Double checked bolt and nut tightness and cotter pins.
 
Sounds good, tho no mention of pilot or emulsion/main jet tube. Tiny hole in pilot, small holes on side of emulsion tube.

OK you can call me a noob here. I pulled the jet and ran fuel thru and blew air down the Jet tube. Didn't mess with the woodruff key. Nor did I touch the emulsion tube. Where are these located?
 
fuel is not a cleaner, or carbs would never need cleaned.
you must use carb cleaner to break down deposits.
Not to mention the fact that you can make an ash of yourself :eek:
Pilot jet is down small hole next to main jet. Use a good small straight slot screwdriver.
Main jet tube/ emulsion tube is held in by main jet. Remove M jet and slide, push out from jet side into carb throat.
IF you have to use force, use a wooden dowel, even if you have to whittle it from a tree branch.
It's made of brass and will damage easily.
Don't forget the main jet washer when assembling.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DAugust84
fuel is not a cleaner, or carbs would never need cleaned.
you must use carb cleaner to break down deposits.

Didn't have any carb cleaner on hand. But you do make an excellent point. Didn't think about it in that way I feel kind of stupid now. But hey learning mistakes are the best ones to learn from. I'm pulling the carb off tonight and I'll see what's up with that emulsion tube.
 
The woodruff key is behind the flywheel connecting it to the crank. You would need to remove the flywheel before you check it, can you post a video?
 
I can attempt to post a video just no clue how to do it and make it work right. I'm attempting one fix at a time. Been so busy lately I haven't had a chance to pull the carb back off yet. I'm going to try the emulsion tube first. If that doesn't fix it. The the flywheel comes off. And I'll check the woodruff key. On that note what am I looking for? What's possibly wrong with it?
 
Sounds great. How would I ensure my float level right. Now it's not set too high I know because it doesn't leak. Is there a specific guide to setting the floats?
 
OK it took a bit longer to get to it than I expected. I pulled the bike apart top to bottom in a sense. I pulled plastics first followed by carb and finally the jug. Checked the rings and they look springy still. Head and cylinder look good. The head gasket however has been leaking for awhile. I put a new gasket on and checked the reeds. All looked well. So I reassembled it. I deleted the tors from my system. The tors on top the carb is all that remains. Cleaned the carb again with carb cleaner this time. Pulled the Jets out and cleaned them also. Ran a wire down the holes. Adjusted the carb float. Put carb back together and installed and reassembled the rest. First kick she sounded stronger as it fired up. Only to soon backfire and die. I also checked my tank for sediment.

So I watched a few videos on YouTube. One was on a guy adjusting the air mixture screw(he said that 2 1/2 turns out is about right. I looked at mine. And the mixture screw was fully out. I adjusted like the video but still having issues with the high speed and low speed. I keep getting a bog while trying to Rev and then it backfires.

Could the head gasket leak have caused the tuning to go off in the carb. So someone adjusted the carb to compensate and now everything's out of whack?
 
Did you record jetting specs while you had carb apart? Needle position? Have you done heat cycles and retorqueed everything?
List all knon mods/pipe, include air filter and lid.
Very possible jetting was jacked with because of the leak.
 
Did you record jetting specs while you had carb apart? Needle position? Have you done heat cycles and retorqueed everything?
List all knon mods/pipe, include air filter and lid.
Very possible jetting was jacked with because of the leak.

As stated here What were your jet settings? I believe backfiring and not idling your pilot screw may still be to lean. I had a problem like this where I couldn't get mine to idle for nothing and I ended up having to play around with my air screw. If you pull the choke out half way does it idle any better? If so you are running lean and should probably adjust air screw accordingly or double and triple check your pilot jet to make sure nothing else has made its way in your carb and clogged it. Also if your base gasket was leaking and you didn't know about it you may want to do a leak down test assuming you haven't done one yet. Any air leaks will affect jetting.
 
I have not leak down tested. It seems like a smart test. I do not have a leak down tester so I was hoping to not have to buy one. As far as jets I'm lost. I pulled the main jet and cup. The jet has no markings. The cup or sleeve it sits in has a box with 2.8 after that? Is that my jet size?
 
I have not leak down tested. It seems like a smart test. I do not have a leak down tester so I was hoping to not have to buy one. As far as jets I'm lost. I pulled the main jet and cup. The jet has no markings. The cup or sleeve it sits in has a box with 2.8 after that? Is that my jet size?
There should be a number on you jets. If you are looking in the hole from the part that does not screw in the carb this is where you will see the number. It may be hard to see. stock main on a blaster is 220 on most I believe. did you pull the pilot jet as well? Again you want to make sure with both jets installed you can see light clearly through both holes. Having a leak down tester is a good investment you can either buy one or build one there is vids on how to do so floating around. A air leaking two stroke engine is a recipe for disaster. The guy that had my quad before melted the rings to the piston because he had an air leak on the intake. If he would have did a leak test he could have avoided this but on the other hand if he did he probably wouldn't have sold it lol