YZ250 Blaster Build Log
- Thread starter Tbrock77
- Start date
Cut the blaster mounts out finally and trimmed the swing arm mount to allow the kicker to do a complete swing. I'm going to work on getting all the mounts made so they're ready to weld
If you plan to run heel guards or nerfs with them, will the kicker hit them? what about interfering with plastics?
I fell in love with the Alba racing Pro Elite nerf bars when I had them on my trx450r, they're wide, sturdy and look great (I'm sure they're knockoffs of some other brand or something along those lines). Unfortunately they do not make them for the blaster (They will if we can get 5000-10000 people to support them, I didn't bother even trying) so I looked around for a set for a smaller quad and found they make them for the raptor 250/350. I plan on modifying them to fit the blaster and to accommodate the backward kick starter. As for the plastics, I don't think they will interfere but I didn't check. I'll throw a set of rears on tomorrow and see what happens.
yea id def check olastic interference,my zilla and lt250r have factory cutouts in the fenders for kicking clearance so that may be an option
Shouldn't be any issues with the plastics, plenty of room. This is as close as it gets, about 4-5 inches away from the plastics.
Worked on the front and lower mounts today, got the tubing cut for the fronts but the blade blew apart while I was cutting the lowers 
I have to get some 1/4" steel bar and then I'll be able to get everything cut out. Not sure when I'll be able to get it welded though.
The picture shows roughly how it's going to mount. The tubes will be welded to the 1/4" steel which will be welded to the frame. The tube will hold the rubber bushing, it fits tight in there, and the bolt goes through the bushing, which is also a tight fit. The point of the rubber bushing is to gobble up some of the vibrations from the engine
After I finish the mounts I'm going to tackle the pipe, at least getting it cut apart and see what I have to do, I know I'm going to have to make at least one 5-6" straight part, is that something I could just use plain sheet metal for? anyone know how thick pipes are?
I have to get some 1/4" steel bar and then I'll be able to get everything cut out. Not sure when I'll be able to get it welded though. The picture shows roughly how it's going to mount. The tubes will be welded to the 1/4" steel which will be welded to the frame. The tube will hold the rubber bushing, it fits tight in there, and the bolt goes through the bushing, which is also a tight fit. The point of the rubber bushing is to gobble up some of the vibrations from the engine
After I finish the mounts I'm going to tackle the pipe, at least getting it cut apart and see what I have to do, I know I'm going to have to make at least one 5-6" straight part, is that something I could just use plain sheet metal for? anyone know how thick pipes are?
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1/4" steel is too thick to weld to the frame and too thick for the job anyway.
Chrome-moly is very hard stuff to weld to.
It tends to turn brittle hard just past the weld and will crack and fail there.
Usually a welded on tab will not fail on the tab, nor the weld, but just outside the weld on the chrome-moly tube.
Some frame welding hints:
TIG, high strength brazing, gas MIG and spot electric welding are preferred.
The metal welded on should be nearly the same thickness as the frame tubing.
Minimal weld area on the chrome-moly frame tube is preferred as it will reduce potential cracking.
The weld should merely hold the mount in place, its strength should be in its form.
Best to wrap thin metal mounts around the frame, use 2 thickness on the tab and spot weld in place.
Steve
Chrome-moly is very hard stuff to weld to.
It tends to turn brittle hard just past the weld and will crack and fail there.
Usually a welded on tab will not fail on the tab, nor the weld, but just outside the weld on the chrome-moly tube.
Some frame welding hints:
TIG, high strength brazing, gas MIG and spot electric welding are preferred.
The metal welded on should be nearly the same thickness as the frame tubing.
Minimal weld area on the chrome-moly frame tube is preferred as it will reduce potential cracking.
The weld should merely hold the mount in place, its strength should be in its form.
Best to wrap thin metal mounts around the frame, use 2 thickness on the tab and spot weld in place.
Steve
The tubing is cold rolled tubing, most likely 1018, the guy didn't know the composite of it. I didn't think the blaster frame was made of chrome-moly so I didn't get that. I even looked it up and most people said it was probably a mild steel. I do have access to a metal spectrometer if anyone really wanted to know what they were made of.
I'm not doing any of the welding, I appericate the advice but a certified welder with a lot of experience is going to be doing all the welding and I'm sure he'll know exactly what to do. The mounts I'm making will be doing all the work, not the welds, I learned that a while ago.
There doesn't seem to be enough room to do that but I was going to try to at least make one side bolt on to the frame. If I can't I think the motor can be tilt up, swing arm bolt pushed through and then rotated down in the mounts but I'm going to test that before I make anything solid. I just got the replacement head stud for the yz today so I'll be able to put it back together and test compression and fit.
Fitted the engine in to check clearance and everything clears it will be impossible to make the front mounts bolt on the frame, the engine is too close to the frame as it is. The top mounts will bolt on and off though.
it will be impossible to make the front mounts bolt on the frame, the engine is too close to the frame as it is. The top mounts will bolt on and off though.
In regards to the swingarm. I was thinking about running a +4 or +6, but I found a really cheap +8. Anyone have any thoughts on that? I feel that's a little too long but I'm not so sure. I'll be running a +3 durable axle with whatever swingarm I pick, the front is also going to be wider but I'm still debating a arms.
With all the extra power I think stock is out of the question but I will be running a stock for a while to do all the original testing.
Starting to get somewhere. Figured out I can't really cut flat steel with a chop saw so I'm stuck for now. I'll need a new top end too I think, waiting to see my dad and get his opinion
Then learn !!!
As much as you tinker and flip stuff seems it'd be a necessity
Can usually get a tombstone for $75-100, or even good 110v wire welder for less than $500.
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