The title says it all, which would be better a widening kit that would equal a +2 A-arm kit or +2 A-arms?
Widening kit or extended A-arms
- Thread starter Swanitalia
- Start date
The best way and to avoid any problems is to go with extended A arms.
The widening kits do have merit as they are cheaper and can be used as +4 and +6 as well.
The widening kits do have merit as they are cheaper and can be used as +4 and +6 as well.
If you have the extra money and can afford it a-arms are the better option.
Wheel spacers are WAY cheaper but they say it makes Bump steer more prevalent and they take a toll on your wheel bearings.
Wheel spacers are WAY cheaper but they say it makes Bump steer more prevalent and they take a toll on your wheel bearings.
If you can scrape up the money, buy the arms. If not, spacers work, but more things might need to be replaced at that time.
Blaster 200 3 Up 1 Pro x Racing A Arms 9 Colors by American Star | eBay
You will also need brake lines with those I:I
Blaster 200 3 Up 1 Pro x Racing A Arms 9 Colors by American Star | eBay
You will also need brake lines with those I:I
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A-Arms are the only way to go in my opinion. Plenty of decent brands out there. I don't really prefer the American Star parts due to bad experiences in the past with bad quality and cheapness.
The wheel bearings take a little more punishment with spacers, but bump steer is not increased as the steering geometry is not changed.
Ah, but the geometry is changed. The tire center line is no longer centered on the ball joints. Almost all vehicals are centered, except maybe tractors.
You are effectively increasing the length of the lever, so the wheel is gaining mechanical advantage over the bars. Steering effort would increase slightly. Bump steer is more a problem if the tie rods are not parralell to the a arms. Little something I've learned on BHQ with crazy streched frames.
Just as there is a reason why you never see arms with more than +1 forward. Tie rods end up not parralell and have what's refered to as the flying V.
You are effectively increasing the length of the lever, so the wheel is gaining mechanical advantage over the bars. Steering effort would increase slightly. Bump steer is more a problem if the tie rods are not parralell to the a arms. Little something I've learned on BHQ with crazy streched frames.
Just as there is a reason why you never see arms with more than +1 forward. Tie rods end up not parralell and have what's refered to as the flying V.
The ball joints and tie rods still go through the same radius, but they may make greater excursions.
With spacers the bump steer is not affected.
Increase the length of the arms and interfere with the radius that the tie rods have to travel, then a whole different ball game.
Widening kits interfere with the radius but bump steer can be effectively be reduced by adjustment of the toe in/out.
With spacers the bump steer is not affected.
Increase the length of the arms and interfere with the radius that the tie rods have to travel, then a whole different ball game.
Widening kits interfere with the radius but bump steer can be effectively be reduced by adjustment of the toe in/out.
I don't want to spend a fortune but it seems that a arms are the way to go. I'm not planning on changing them till winter when I tear her down and repaint. I was looking at this widening kit
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I know A-arms help reduce bump steer on jumps, but I do not jump so it would be a cheaper alternative to real A-arms. But would it improve corning/stability like A-arms?
The kit comes with tie rod extensions and the stock brake lines will fit.
Cornering/stability are much the same as A arms.
A benefit of A arms is that they also lengthen the wheelbase.
Cornering/stability are much the same as A arms.
A benefit of A arms is that they also lengthen the wheelbase.
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