great job on the custom parts! all 3 of those look awesome dude.
i would assume that bowl will be plenty big enough I:I
good stuff
i would assume that bowl will be plenty big enough I:I
good stuff
When it rains it pours!
- Thread starter sicivicdude
- Start date
- Status
Can't believe I never saw this thread before. You are one persistent sob. Just read this start to finish and my hat is off to you sir. Your trial and error and sharing all of the secrets you are figuring out is much appreciated. I'm thinking this gravity feed system is going to work but I really liked you putting that fuel weight in the bumper. Hope to deal with you in the future for some of those a-arms.
I wanted to keep the weight out front but it seems like the gravity feed system is going to actually work better. The fuel pump just wasn't working on this carburetor....
Maybe later I'll get a snowmobile carburetor and go for it again but for this setup, a gravity feed is going to work better.
Maybe later I'll get a snowmobile carburetor and go for it again but for this setup, a gravity feed is going to work better.
No doubt in my mind that the fuel will be back up front soon, with bigger/better mounting tabs on the tank.
I don't know, I like the cell sitting up top where I can fill the tank without getting the bottle under the hood. If it runs with the large bowl and cell up top I'll just leave it and run it.
Some ideas pan out and some fall flat. With a different carb or pressure regulator I could have had the cell in the bumper work but it just wasn't meant to be.
Some ideas pan out and some fall flat. With a different carb or pressure regulator I could have had the cell in the bumper work but it just wasn't meant to be.
I put some 30% nitro in the tank today and tested for leaks. Of course, the float needle stuck and ran over LOL but I tapped the bowl lightly and it reset and no more problems....
I found a small leak around one of the "standoffs" in the float bowl (like "drip drip drip" not faucet) but it was from a poor bond of the bowl bottom to standoff tube. No problem really, I set the welder to 225 amps and stood on the pedal to melt through .080" aluminum sheet and a 3/8" round rod to melt them together. I then refinished all of the bolt hole tops to make them prettier and the heads tighten down better.
Unfortunately, it was too late to salvage the tie rod...
I lined up beside the house and dropped the hammer in 2nd. It pulled the front tires off the ground with Duro "balloonies" on the back on grass. By the time I had revved out I let off and was going too fast.. I hit the brakes but only having back brakes, it slid the rear end out to the right and threw me into the ditch in front of the house. The left front tire stuffed into the hill and spaghetti'd the thin end of the tie rod (go back and look at earlier pics for an idea of what I'm talking about). I'm going to make full tube tie rods and change out those "heim" ends on the spindles.
I found a small leak around one of the "standoffs" in the float bowl (like "drip drip drip" not faucet) but it was from a poor bond of the bowl bottom to standoff tube. No problem really, I set the welder to 225 amps and stood on the pedal to melt through .080" aluminum sheet and a 3/8" round rod to melt them together. I then refinished all of the bolt hole tops to make them prettier and the heads tighten down better.
Unfortunately, it was too late to salvage the tie rod...
I lined up beside the house and dropped the hammer in 2nd. It pulled the front tires off the ground with Duro "balloonies" on the back on grass. By the time I had revved out I let off and was going too fast.. I hit the brakes but only having back brakes, it slid the rear end out to the right and threw me into the ditch in front of the house. The left front tire stuffed into the hill and spaghetti'd the thin end of the tie rod (go back and look at earlier pics for an idea of what I'm talking about). I'm going to make full tube tie rods and change out those "heim" ends on the spindles.
thank-you !
those "allthread" ??? tie rods had me worried from the get go, i'd hate to see you get hurt
glad to hear the gravity tank is working better for ya too !
ps...i thought i felt the earth shake earlier I:I
Those are actually the "tie rods" that match the spindles and without me sliding into a hill at 25mph sideways they'd have held up (in a straight line!). The reason I used them is the spindles don't have a taper area so I can bolt down a regular blaster tie rod end .
I'll be experimenting with a standard tie rod end now so I can run a one piece tube tie rod out to the outside.
I'll be experimenting with a standard tie rod end now so I can run a one piece tube tie rod out to the outside.
We had the same problem fitting the tie rod end to the spindle on Ians quad. I ended up machining two blocks and cutting the taper into them, then welding the blocks to the spindle. I used a #5 taper reamer to cut the hole.
damn civic that sounds crazy! glad youre ok dude. make some new tie rods and try again brotha. glad it was running better for you tho no doubt
I have some LT250R tie rod ends laying around that I believe are M10 x 1.25 but they'd have to have something VERY similar done to the spindles only in straight (no taper). I could do taper too and use blaster tie rod ends I supposed, whichever makes it easier. I'm going to yank the stupid little BS "heim" joint off of it tonight and start my planning on the next move.
Good news is, even though I had some "ditch" related troubles it had no fuel related trouble. I even let it sit there and idle about about a minute and it even idles well. I had a "puff" of smoke when I revved it up and "launched" but no liquid shooting out the tailpipe and very little splooge on the silencer when I was done. MUCH better results with the gravity feed...
SiCivicDude, if you have a lathe, you can make up taper sleeves to fit the straight bolt.
Tightening them up will draw everything tight just like a taper does, or an olive on tubing.
You can split them or make them out of a metal with some "give" to it like bronze.
I have done this on full sized vehicles, but not a Blaster.
Tightening them up will draw everything tight just like a taper does, or an olive on tubing.
You can split them or make them out of a metal with some "give" to it like bronze.
I have done this on full sized vehicles, but not a Blaster.
I drilled the spindles with an appropriately sized drill bit and slid the LT250R tie rod ends in place. I stacked two stainless washers, tack welded them together, and onto the spindle. I then installed a nylok lock nut and tightened them until they squealed. I'm more than pleased with the outcome especially since I didn't have to make anything really fancy dancy to use them and they fit the existing size requirements without too much modification. Now they're at least as strong as stock blaster tie rods which should be MORE than enough for a dragger.
Threw some more of that $38 a gallon 30% nitro in it today and played around in the yard. I hate doing it in the yard as I don't have enough space to get any sort of run at it but I aired down the Duro balloonies and started doing some 2nd gear launches. I was able to slip the clutch enough to get the front tires up off the ground and trench the grass. It's a little dangerous considering I don't have the space. I'm stoked for next month!
It's thick and acrid enough to be borderline choking. I'm going to be ordering a few special things to get ready for next month.
I'm PUMPED!I did a little more "work" to it last night
I removed the blue seat to use it on a "real" quad and took an old beat up, split cover, nasty foam donor seat and shaved it down and recovered it. I got a little special vinyl for the project (I'll take pics tonight!).
I also removed the exhaust and re-header painted it. It was starting to get pretty rough where the steel was exposed after the initial fiasco with pumping fuel out of the tailpipe/carb vents/EVERYWHERE! had ate the high temp paint off exposing raw steel. It a pretty new high temp "aluminum" 1500°F header paint again. I don't expect it to stay that way for long but I can try....
I removed the blue seat to use it on a "real" quad and took an old beat up, split cover, nasty foam donor seat and shaved it down and recovered it. I got a little special vinyl for the project (I'll take pics tonight!).
I also removed the exhaust and re-header painted it. It was starting to get pretty rough where the steel was exposed after the initial fiasco with pumping fuel out of the tailpipe/carb vents/EVERYWHERE! had ate the high temp paint off exposing raw steel. It a pretty new high temp "aluminum" 1500°F header paint again. I don't expect it to stay that way for long but I can try....
I left the Duro "balloonies" on it for now. I think the first couple of runs will be with the duro's to do some jetting runs so I don't have to mess with the wheelie bar and then I'll switch up to the paddles and wheelie bar after I feel it's closeish:
The foam finished a little lumpy like because of a dull knife
but it should run down the drag strip just the same!
My right side "heel guard" to finish out the right side fender:
The foam finished a little lumpy like because of a dull knife
but it should run down the drag strip just the same!
My right side "heel guard" to finish out the right side fender:
- Status
