Alright, I trimmed down the wiring harness last night of all of the "un-needed" assemblies (the other cdi box wiring
) and held the positive and negative wires from the harness onto the coil terminals and MAN alive did it throw out some bright blue spark.
Now that I know that it CAN work, I'll tell you guys what I did....
I found a deal sometime ago on Ebay for a brand new but unboxed PVL dual outlet 1.5 ohm ignition coil. The deal was, it fit a Triumph motorcycle. Generally these sell for anywhere between $80 and $100 but the deal was $20 with free shipping brand new.... I figured the worst that could happen was that I ended up with a paper weight so gave it a shot.
I then went to my local autoparts store and bought a "make your own" Standard ignition wire set. It's intended for tractors and custom applications and includes 5 wires and a pile of different shaped distributor ends (none of which I used) for $17. The set is non-resistor copper core 7mm outside diameter ignition wires.
The triumph coil has a funky connector for the plug wire outputs, it's sort of like the wires are supposed to be pressed into the housing and the housing creates a bit of a "barb" to hold the wire into the end. I removed the rubber covers from the two NGK spark plug boots that I already had and slid them down onto the new wires, then I measured and cut the wires to length (plus a few inches
) and then stripped the sheathing off the last 3/8" except for the inner sheath. The result was a "thinned down" end that contained the copper wire strandsand a single layer of silicone to hold it together. I then started the wire expanding by sticking a jewelers screwdriver down the middle of the core to spread the wires out and then shoved the wire into the PVL coil. The result was exactly as desired, the single layer of sheath holds into the "barb" area while the copper wire core is slid up and over the "peg" down inside the outlet. I then slid the rubber covers over the wire ends to keep and errant fire from escaping! The grand total was about an hours "fab work" and $37.
I'm still searching around for the possibility of a smaller diameter flywheel and stator plate that will fit the blaster crankshaft taper (or getting the YZ85 flywheel taper modified) but this will get the "wheels turning" for now!