When it rains it pours!
- Thread starter sicivicdude
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wow James, that statement is alot easier said than done and remember we'll be back to busco beach soon enough
anywho, sweet work on the head dude, i've never seen that done before to a blaster motor I:I very cool ideas in this thread
Yeah, his name's tater and he's a crazy SOB! Mike already said he'd do it.... one of the two of you will jump on and ride this rocket.
I understand exactly what you're saying and I'm not taking it the wrong way man. In a race on quads who's AUW is like 400 lbs (with the right jockey) a 320 lb rider just isn't going to cut it. I'm not delusional, just KRAZY!
I am looking forward to it, hanging out this year was awesome and I'd like to be out on that track next year with you man! I:I I think SOMEONE from this forum can break into 4.5 seconds down there (if the rain lets up). I'm shooting for it (with enough "go boom juice") but hell, I'd be happy just to see any one of our blasters do it. Yes dually, that EVEN means you!
hahahah...yeah man i will ride that beotch! just say the word. mike is probably a good bit lighter than me though.
It's a trade off though... 30lbs of weight but less pro tree time. Up for debate on who could be faster on it...
It'll end up being like the bayou... everyone's gonna take a turn on it!
It'll end up being like the bayou... everyone's gonna take a turn on it!
I agree, easier said than done. 4.81 is damn close to a 4 mil stroked banshee time on alky so i personally think it will stand for a while but i am 100% sure there is going to be a few more going to try and capture it.
well I totally FUGGED up that head! LOL I cross threaded the helicoil tap in the rearmost hole....DOH!!!
Good news is, I have a spare and this gives me the opportunity to take a bunch of pics of the process which I didn't do the first time.... I'm going to take pics of how to redesign a head by hand and the process to fill in the spark plug hole.
I'm going to get a M14 x 1.25 tap to give me two chances at this as well as build up the spark plug gasket mating surface before drilling the plug hole and tapping. Hopefully that will lower the risk of screwing it up a second time 8-|
Oh, and my $41 set of red label wheels shipped today I:I
Good news is, I have a spare and this gives me the opportunity to take a bunch of pics of the process which I didn't do the first time.... I'm going to take pics of how to redesign a head by hand and the process to fill in the spark plug hole.
I'm going to get a M14 x 1.25 tap to give me two chances at this as well as build up the spark plug gasket mating surface before drilling the plug hole and tapping. Hopefully that will lower the risk of screwing it up a second time 8-|
Oh, and my $41 set of red label wheels shipped today I:I
Alright boys..... I'm not sure if this belongs here because of it'll get buried but here goes anyway....
How to mod your own head 101. A few things to remember. #1 a carbide burr is NOT a finish cutter. You hog out the very rough shape and make sure you leave enough material to clean up #2 getting the squish angle right is tough. The easiest way to do this is to make a template of the 11deg squish angle and hemi combustion chamber area and use that to cut "to"
This is the rough cut, more pictures later:
How to mod your own head 101. A few things to remember. #1 a carbide burr is NOT a finish cutter. You hog out the very rough shape and make sure you leave enough material to clean up #2 getting the squish angle right is tough. The easiest way to do this is to make a template of the 11deg squish angle and hemi combustion chamber area and use that to cut "to"
This is the rough cut, more pictures later:
I take the whole thing to my sander and cut the mating surface (and bottom plane of the head off together if needed) until the squish area is set properly. I got the stock spark plug hole all welded up now and am drilling for the dual spark plug holes. More pics when I finish.
Because I didn't get a chance earlier to describe the process... LOL
The first step is to figure out 50% of the bore size and mark it. I used the hardened tips of the calipers to mark it.
Then I ran the 1/4" carbide double cut ball burr around just inside the mark to form a DNE (no not exceed) trench and then cut the combustion chamber hemispherical from there.
The last step was the to cut the squish area out to a better angle. Stock squish area is wider than 50% of the bore and at completely the wrong angle (about 20 deg). THe optimal angle is about 11 degrees.
I use the 1/4" end mill carbide burr and a VERY steady hand to work my way around the squish area to cut it right checking it for depth and angle with my guide.
The final step is to run around the whole thing with stones to smooth out the burr marks and then wet sand to take out the stone marks and finally rouge it to death to smooth it completely. Obviously, I'm not to the rouging part yet as I still have to finish off the spark plug holes but eventually this head area will shine like a new penny (minus the pot marks from welding the cast that are fairly inevitable which will be filled in with epoxy)
I went about the spark plugs holes in a completely different method this time and so far so good....
Before I welded down inside the spark plug hole and tried to fill the whole thing in with filler rod which worked about half well.... This time I dilled out the spark plug hole to the same size as a piece of 6061 aluminum rod I had laying around and stuck it down halfway into the hole and then welded both ends. It worked beautifully and I was able to plug up the spark plug hole with little trouble this time and I'm confident no voids.
I drilled the new spark plugs before the tap size and then tried to add material to the top of the hole to make it tall enough to seal the spark plug which was disasterous. This time I pilot drilled the new spark plug holes (for alignment and spacing measurements) at about 8mm or so and then welded around and around to build up the spark plug sealing surface. This time it worked SOOOO much better. I built up about a 1/4" more sealing surface than needed and worked it back down smooth and square with the burr and finally filed the burr marks out. I have to finish the other spark plug hole tomorrow to length and square the top off so it will be ready for tapping.
Hopefully I can find a M14 x 1.25 tap sometime in the next week or so I can tap this thing out to fit the plugs in.
The first step is to figure out 50% of the bore size and mark it. I used the hardened tips of the calipers to mark it.
Then I ran the 1/4" carbide double cut ball burr around just inside the mark to form a DNE (no not exceed) trench and then cut the combustion chamber hemispherical from there.
The last step was the to cut the squish area out to a better angle. Stock squish area is wider than 50% of the bore and at completely the wrong angle (about 20 deg). THe optimal angle is about 11 degrees.
I use the 1/4" end mill carbide burr and a VERY steady hand to work my way around the squish area to cut it right checking it for depth and angle with my guide.
The final step is to run around the whole thing with stones to smooth out the burr marks and then wet sand to take out the stone marks and finally rouge it to death to smooth it completely. Obviously, I'm not to the rouging part yet as I still have to finish off the spark plug holes but eventually this head area will shine like a new penny (minus the pot marks from welding the cast that are fairly inevitable which will be filled in with epoxy)
I went about the spark plugs holes in a completely different method this time and so far so good....
Before I welded down inside the spark plug hole and tried to fill the whole thing in with filler rod which worked about half well.... This time I dilled out the spark plug hole to the same size as a piece of 6061 aluminum rod I had laying around and stuck it down halfway into the hole and then welded both ends. It worked beautifully and I was able to plug up the spark plug hole with little trouble this time and I'm confident no voids.
I drilled the new spark plugs before the tap size and then tried to add material to the top of the hole to make it tall enough to seal the spark plug which was disasterous. This time I pilot drilled the new spark plug holes (for alignment and spacing measurements) at about 8mm or so and then welded around and around to build up the spark plug sealing surface. This time it worked SOOOO much better. I built up about a 1/4" more sealing surface than needed and worked it back down smooth and square with the burr and finally filed the burr marks out. I have to finish the other spark plug hole tomorrow to length and square the top off so it will be ready for tapping.
Hopefully I can find a M14 x 1.25 tap sometime in the next week or so I can tap this thing out to fit the plugs in.
*sings a little diddy* I have a blaster with two spark plugs, two spark plug, two spark plugs!
Ignore the little divot.... I gotta sand that back out LOL. Just for those who might say this isn't a stock yamah head....
yeah huh!
Chutzell, the clearance from the head nut mating surface to the body of the spark plug. I believe there's enough room for a half inch longer than stock stud in there before there's any trouble:
Ignore the little divot.... I gotta sand that back out LOL. Just for those who might say this isn't a stock yamah head....
yeah huh!
Chutzell, the clearance from the head nut mating surface to the body of the spark plug. I believe there's enough room for a half inch longer than stock stud in there before there's any trouble:
I'm not certain what plug chops might mean on an engine like this. It doesn't burn hot enough to "burn" a ring of soot onto the plug base to look at later. All of the soot is washed away by the incoming fuel charge as well so I think rich vs lean is going to be more of a matter of "feel" than visual cues.
All I know is, this was some hair raising scary sh*t to do by hand. NOT a mod I would recommend to anyone else... Thankfully I screwed up ONLY one head to figure out how to make the second... 8-|
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