You have to buy a different sprocket hub to use a 35 tooth rear sprocket. The smallest you can go with the stock sprocket is 38 (and that takes some "machining" to clear the chain. Instead of going with a different sprocket you COULD fit a 15 tooth front sprocket. You have to flip it around (so the chain runs more outboard than "stock") and shave the chain slider center rib down.
You can run a Big Bore kit on an FMF pipe and it will respond well but you REALLY need to pay attention to matching components if you're going to go with a FMF pipe. The FMF pipe (depending on model of course I'm assuming "fatty" because they're the most common) is a bottom-mig pipe with limited over-rev. Anything larger than a 35 mm carburetor will lose bottom end power and the pipe won't put out top end power. Any sort of port work above a "trail" port will lose bottom end power and your pipe won't put out top end power. You need to tailor your choices going forward around your use. If you navigate tight woodsy trails, the FMF is an awesome pipe because it revs clean from the bottom up and gives a bunch of grunt. If you're trying to drag race, the FMF may be a little limiting by not putting out gobs of top end power.
You can run a Big Bore kit on an FMF pipe and it will respond well but you REALLY need to pay attention to matching components if you're going to go with a FMF pipe. The FMF pipe (depending on model of course I'm assuming "fatty" because they're the most common) is a bottom-mig pipe with limited over-rev. Anything larger than a 35 mm carburetor will lose bottom end power and the pipe won't put out top end power. Any sort of port work above a "trail" port will lose bottom end power and your pipe won't put out top end power. You need to tailor your choices going forward around your use. If you navigate tight woodsy trails, the FMF is an awesome pipe because it revs clean from the bottom up and gives a bunch of grunt. If you're trying to drag race, the FMF may be a little limiting by not putting out gobs of top end power.
then ill just do the 15 tooth sprocket. and were i ride is mostly tight trails. so it should work out. and im most likely gonna have m head ported by phantom or whatever its called now lol and im gettin a 35mm keihin carb. just looked into them
If your going to fix it, let me know. I'll bring my leak down tester over when you get it back together.
If you're going to get the PWK35, spend the extra few dollars and get the A/S (air stryker) model. It helps on bottom end throttle response by having small vanes in the carburetor throat to direct air at the emulsion tube. Better for trails with that in there.
Hey, you laugh.... I've traded someone a stock top end before for a Big Bore Kit. How do you think I ended up with the one I have? It sure wasn't because I paid Vito's $550....
lol i dont want stock haha. if i buy a new head ill let you know. and we will work somethin out. but ima try to salvage it
haha i paid 500 for mine, lol and another few hundo to get it right, lol i would have been better off sleeving a stock top end with a la sleeve.
anyways go with the 35mm and get some vf2's or vf3's reeds, if ur really into modding and are cheap get ur flywheel lightened, it will make it snappier and gives u better accelerations. its used a lot of for draggin but a lof us trail guys use it, some say dont, i say do!
dont buy a new head talk to ken oconnor racing and he will mod ur head for a good price and port it if u want, he did mine and its awesome, there will be a ride report when i get a couple hiccups out the way.
anyways go with the 35mm and get some vf2's or vf3's reeds, if ur really into modding and are cheap get ur flywheel lightened, it will make it snappier and gives u better accelerations. its used a lot of for draggin but a lof us trail guys use it, some say dont, i say do!
dont buy a new head talk to ken oconnor racing and he will mod ur head for a good price and port it if u want, he did mine and its awesome, there will be a ride report when i get a couple hiccups out the way.
