Well, motor was leak free prior to this ride and still reading as leak free...I trust it lol
I checked the slide, took apart the tors and cleaned it to make sure it wasn't hanging up in there..
Two rebuilds...underway
- Thread starter DeJay1206
- Start date
Well, motor was leak free prior to this ride and still reading as leak free...I trust it lol
I checked the slide, took apart the tors and cleaned it to make sure it wasn't hanging up in there..
I see no mention of what your "builder" says about the carnage on your freshly rebuilt engine. Any communication between the two of you?
Yeah, there has been communication between us. I honestly don't even wanna talk about it anymore. My bike will be up and running again here soon. Just a matter of taking the top end to a machine shop out my way that I'm gonna try out. A few members on here have had good experiences with this machine shop and there aren't any shipping costs associated. I should be able to do it soon, but I gotta get the money together for the piston first...
I'm only going to say this once............You can't bore a freakin cylinder with a hone. That's your problem Boss. The bore is tapered and probably out of round. The rings are a very important part of transferring heat from the piston to the cylinder walls and in turn the cooling fins. If the bore looks like a sanded ice cube tray, things are going to get hot and blow up. Take the cylinder to a reputable shop and have it measured. I can tell just by looking at the pics that the cylinder is tapered at least .002". Doesn't sound like a lot but it's only the beginning of the problem. Ask them to check out of round as well. You'll be surprised at their findings. Sorry this happened to you. Hope you get her right.
I realize that Ken. Gonna get it bored out correct and tight with a 67.25 wiseco and be rocking again here soon.
Gonna check the bore first, going to 89blasters and gonna see how off it is. If it's right, 100% right, I can hone it and get the same size piston. But that's ONLY if it's perfect. If not, I'll get it bored out again.
So you guys are all serious about "builder" using a stone hone to bore his cylinders. I thought you all were joking, i gave deJay the name of the best machine shop around here for the motorcycle stuff, they have done probably 10 cylinders for me, they won't even bore the cylinder without having the piston your gonna use in hand to set clearance, an they chamfer every port every time, there very anal an very knowledgeable with 2 cycle engines
I'm taking it up there within the next few weeks to get it all squared away 89. Thanks for the referral.
damn that sucks, something is definetly wrong with those parts,if i spent all that time and blew holes and scrapped piston like that,i think id buy brand spankin new parts on everything on top,cylinder,ect. crap might have to buy a bore gauge just to check other people work...
is that a 67mm piston?? what brand is it?? just curios..not saying it is pistons fault though.
is that a 67mm piston?? what brand is it?? just curios..not saying it is pistons fault though.
It's a wiseco 67mm. Ordering a 67.25 and gonna get it bored to spec. Should be back up and running within the next few weeks.
Don’t order anything until the shop measures it. The cylinder may need more than .25 to clean up. Cylinders are bored perpendicular to the base of the cylinder. If large amounts of material were removed with a hone, the bore could be crooked as well as out of spec. If I were doing this bore, I would shoot for the next size up and continue to bore until the cylinder cleans up. At that point the cylinder can be removed from the machine and the customer can be advised what piston they need to order. Once the shop has the correct piston, they can hone the last .002” - .003” to set the clearance.
Sooo, I think I found a huge mistake I made on my part. I forgot to clean the air filter before riding it, and I'm thinking dirt got into the motor and caused the problems I have now. Plus that leaky head gasket didn't help. Assuming from the pics that there was a small leak at the head. Anyway, here's a pic of the bottom... Hopefully I can just flush it out to clean the bottom out without risking more dirt going into the motor. Needless to say, a dirty air filter is a ridiculous reason to blow a motor...
This was sparkling clean before running.
This was sparkling clean before running.
I feel that you are blaming yourself needlessly about the dirty air filter, a dirty filter usually keep out more dust than a clean one, unless you put in on inside out.
The particles of debris look to me like metal fragments.
I hate to burst your bubble DeJay, but I fear that you will have to split the cases to remove the crap that is in there.
You may well find that the bearings contain some debris which cannot be removed by simple flushing.
I draw your attention to the pic of your piston, there are particles of Aluminium still hanging from the skirt of the piston, others which may have dropped into the crankcase.
Do not take a chance that you can remove them by flushing, one minute piece of metal lurking in a bearing can cause catastrophic results.
The particles of debris look to me like metal fragments.
I hate to burst your bubble DeJay, but I fear that you will have to split the cases to remove the crap that is in there.
You may well find that the bearings contain some debris which cannot be removed by simple flushing.
I draw your attention to the pic of your piston, there are particles of Aluminium still hanging from the skirt of the piston, others which may have dropped into the crankcase.
Do not take a chance that you can remove them by flushing, one minute piece of metal lurking in a bearing can cause catastrophic results.
Last edited:
On looking again at the pic of the crank pin bearing, it does not look quite normal.
Check it out, below the second roller there are 3 horizontal lines showing, what do they seem to be?
Check it out, below the second roller there are 3 horizontal lines showing, what do they seem to be?
Similar threads
