Tie rod ends

[xd45c]

Waiting on a set of norman420 spindles so I will be tackling a front brake swap in the near future so I'm looking for any tips/ walkthroughs on what's needed in the tie rod/ a-arms department .

I've seen more than once on here pictured of fudged up rod ends and threads so I'm trying to avoid that. Any tips?

 

[Blaaster]

If you use the hammer out method, make sure you only release the nuts no more than one turn. If then you do miss the arm, the only damage you may do is to the castellation on the nut.

 

[Braaaptor]

If you can, get ahold of compressed air... The best way to get them apart without damaging anything is to remove the castle nut and cotter pin and then soak the rod ends in PB Blaster overnight. Then, screw the castle nut back onto the threads until the top of the nut is flush with the top of the threads.

Take an air hammer with a BLUNT punch and let the vibration from the hammer do the work. Most of the time they will pop right apart without drama or damage. Worst-case scenarios may require use of the old-fashioned 'pickle fork', but this method tears up boots and is a last resort.

 

[Awk08]

heres some pics from way back when i did my first front hydro's
i've since did 3 more, alll with norms spindles, and various yami sport quad brake parts

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/low-buck-front-hydros-20811/

 

[xd45c]

Thanks for the tips so far. Still haven't put the order in yet, last I heard he was waiting for a batch to come back from getting plated. If I run into any problems getting them off I'll be back for some more help.

I may bring the quad up to work one day, we've got a sh*t ton of attachments for the air compressor. Sounds like a good route to take if I have trouble getting them off by hand.

 

[Awk08]

be careful using a pickle fork, especially air powered, it'll rip the boot
undo the nut till it's just past the threads and sticking up about a 1/2 thred, give it a good whack with a nice size flat hammer, they'll pop right out

 

[xd45c]

PB blaster have any ill effect on the boots?

 

[Awk08]

you shouldnt need any helper lube, they're in that taper soo tight nuthin can get in there, i've seperated like 4-5 sets, and never used any, and it's always nice and shiny inside, i'd do wd-40 before PB < it has an acid in it

 

[xd45c]

Sounds good, I'll go at it with some brute force first, then extra steps will be taken if they won't come out.

 

[Awk08]

don't go hog wild with the brute force, medium whacks usually do it for me

 

[xd45c]

Got it... How about going back in? Do they just snap in or have to be pressed in somehow?

First time I'll be diving into this if you couldn't tell haha.

 

[Awk08]

they're tougher getting in, air tools help there, to drive the nut on, it'll spin faster than the tie rod can, otherwise i usually have to use a wrench on the flat spot of the rod, where you can adjust it, jamb the tie rod sideways as hard as you can, then run the nut on with my battery drill

 

[super noober]

if ur tierods are old and beat just beat them till they come out and replace with new

 

[Blaaster]

If them threads are damaged, a small triangular file and a little time and patience will have them like new again.