Well we blew out the oil pan on our Jetta today. Went to pick up our dog and hit a big rock in their driveway
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- Thread starter cbaber
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Vehicular misfortune must be the theme this weekend. Threw a wheel weight on Friday and a rear shock committed suicide on a pot hole early this morning.
I know you have replaced a few. Should we buy the $230 OEM one, or a $100 one will work?
This is our TDI wagon btw. not my VR6
I paid 140-ish @ advance auto cause I had to get my sons car running asap. But eBay has them even cheaper. I don't see how the OEM can be any better as easy as they break, I'd go as cheap as possible. No matter which, if you bottom it out its gonna break again.
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Okay we will go for the $100 ones on amazon. 2 day shipping is better than trusting egay
My dad is also looking at skid plates but idk. We have gone 2 plus years without a problem on his. it was a fluke that rock took it out
2015 Jeep Patriot latitude edition.
Got a buddy of mines friend bringing over a 75 Suzuki Furry 440 motor to do some porting on etc. To be honest im a bit nervous since these things are pretty rare and to replace something seems near impossible ("some" parts are interchangable with Eltigre). It is an oval track ice racer vintage stock class so No port timing changes since they got things pretty much spot on from the factory so most likely some clean up, gasket/case matching, texturing, and maybe some clutch work ? Should be fun and interestiing. Pics to come 
My dad said the one he ordered was about $75 and he also ordered a felt gasket.
He put it on in about an hour and a half. using my tools as usual haha
So anybody good with diesels? I've almost got that John Deere going finally. I've been busy as hell on multiple projects, but finally getting somewhere. I ran it for a sec on some ether, just to confirm I was getting fire. The diesel doesn't seem to be making it past the injection pump. I think its just crudded up from sitting so long. My buddy told me, whatever you do don't try and take that apart! Thinking I'm gonna try and find a diesel fuel system cleaner, pull off the injector lines off, and hope the pump becomes a fountain lol. Gonna try and get up with an old-timer diesel mechanic I know and get his ideas on it, but I haven't seen him in awhile.
Tbrooks, are you aware that the fuel lines need to be bled at the injectors to expel all the air.
No I wasn't. I've never worked on a diesel, didn't even know what the injection pump was until my buddy told me. I was gonna try removing the lines from the injection pump, to flush things. I've got to remove quite a few things in order to even get to injectors
Guess that will be first on my list tomorrow, if this rain lets up. I did check the fuel cut-off solenoid, and made sure it worked. I got some diesel cleaner, and 2 batteries charged, so i can turn it over quite a bit to hopefully get fuel flowing. Still haven't talked with the diesel mechanic yet, but worse case scenario, I know he can rebuild the injection pump for me.Also the manual says that the system is self bleeding, and also not to try to work on the injection pump. I think I will remove the side cover, I have read elsewhere of removing the cover to check the internal fuel-shutoff. However, I did have fuel at the "bleed" line so it would seem fuel is traveling somewhere, I will investigate more. I had joined a tractor forum awhile back, but they are not very responsive over there.
To be honest, I have no idea. Here is a picture if that helps
![IMG_20151002_165630006[1].jpg](https://blasterforum.com/attachments/img_20151002_165630006-1-jpg.25158/ "IMG_20151002_165630006[1].jpg")
Here is about all the info that they give in the manual
I have no fuel if I remove the first 2 injection lines from the pump, but if I loosen the screws for supply and return lines, there is fuel at both. However if I remove the return line from the fuel filter, and turn the engine over, or use the hand lever on the fuel pump, I get no fuel coming from the return line, but instead fuel comes from the filter assembly, where the return line connects. So I do not have fuel traveling through the injection pump to the bleed/return line as I previously thought. I did not remove the side cover yet to see what I can get to there. I am going shortly to see if my mechanic friend is around. Would there be any benefit/harm done by blowing compressed air through the injection pump, while turning the engine? Thanks for your help.
Here is about all the info that they give in the manual
I have no fuel if I remove the first 2 injection lines from the pump, but if I loosen the screws for supply and return lines, there is fuel at both. However if I remove the return line from the fuel filter, and turn the engine over, or use the hand lever on the fuel pump, I get no fuel coming from the return line, but instead fuel comes from the filter assembly, where the return line connects. So I do not have fuel traveling through the injection pump to the bleed/return line as I previously thought. I did not remove the side cover yet to see what I can get to there. I am going shortly to see if my mechanic friend is around. Would there be any benefit/harm done by blowing compressed air through the injection pump, while turning the engine? Thanks for your help.
That is an in line pump and it is self bleeding, but you have to do the work.
There should be a lift pump A to allow fuel to be pumped to the injector pump.
Use the pump to deliver fuel and crack open the first bleed at the top of the filter and pump until all air is expelled.
Then crack it closed and do the same to the injection pump bleed D.
It may then pay to pump fuel until all the air is expelled at the exit of F the return line.
When all air is out of the injector pump, crack open a line at one of the injector and crank the engine until fuel gets forced out of the line.
Tighten the input up and the engine should start.
You may need to do each injector line.
As the filter is higher than the injector pump there may be some trouble bleeding the air from the line as air likes to find the highest point.
Just take it slowly as you bleed the air at the filter to allow the air to rise and the line get charged with fuel. This can be a swine and very frustrating.
I can assure you that if there is any air left in the system the injector pump will not inject.
Keep compressed air well away from the pump, it is air that you do not need it will not inject.
There should be a lift pump A to allow fuel to be pumped to the injector pump.
Use the pump to deliver fuel and crack open the first bleed at the top of the filter and pump until all air is expelled.
Then crack it closed and do the same to the injection pump bleed D.
It may then pay to pump fuel until all the air is expelled at the exit of F the return line.
When all air is out of the injector pump, crack open a line at one of the injector and crank the engine until fuel gets forced out of the line.
Tighten the input up and the engine should start.
You may need to do each injector line.
As the filter is higher than the injector pump there may be some trouble bleeding the air from the line as air likes to find the highest point.
Just take it slowly as you bleed the air at the filter to allow the air to rise and the line get charged with fuel. This can be a swine and very frustrating.
I can assure you that if there is any air left in the system the injector pump will not inject.
Keep compressed air well away from the pump, it is air that you do not need it will not inject.
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i must admit i did not read even half of this buttt.
Did or were you able to get a fuel pressure?
I will try to read through it
I have been super busy by the way BF
Did or were you able to get a fuel pressure?
I will try to read through it
I have been super busy by the way BF
No speedy, I haven't. Blaaster, I tried something similar, but skipped a few steps
I'll try as you said, and see if I can find a cap for the nipple on the filter, so that I don't keep making a mess. I made it out to talk to my friend, who said with it being a newer john deere, he wouldn't be able to rebuild the pump. His advice was to do the best I can to work carb cleaner in and let it soak, and then go at it again. I can tell you from doing this that carb cleaner that I sprayed into the exit (F) came out through the inlet (D). I also read somewhere, that although the solenoid is operating properly, the lever which it moves may be gummed up, so I will see what I can do to check that as well. Btw I'm not sure if I mentioned it above, but this tractor has been sitting for 5+ years.
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