Joeak47's thread on HOW TO DO an "Aggresive Trail" port on your blaster's cylinder!

[joeak47]

I should be getting started on the videos very soon. In the next few days at the latest. I'll include lots of pictures as well as short video segments. I'll give you part numbers and costs of the items,as well as ways to save money during the process. You can "improvise" on many things to save a buck when doing this. Some items you might already have in your garage,or perhaps you might know a friend or neighbor that will be willing to lend them to you.

The object is to get your cylinder properly ported while keeping as much cash in your pocket! Thats kind of the reason for doing this in the first place right? You get to learn something,you get to do it yourself,you get to save money,and you will get a sense of "accomplishment" knowing you did it yourself!

I know that this "Aggresive Trail" ported cylinder works AWESOME! My ass dyno doesn't lie! Its reliable and has not given me any trouble what so ever!This can be done at home by >>> YOU! Its scary when you first start,but thats why you take your time! Kind of like the first time you road a bike. Remember that its easy to take the metal off,but impossible to put it back on. This is where your patience comes in! You might be lucky enough to have a spare "junk" cylinder to practice on,or you might want to just port the cylinder you have. REMEMBER..........PATIENCE!

The "air tool" and "technique" that I'm going to show you, gives you great control,and will "almost" prevent mistakes from happening. Its almost impossible to "over speed" the carbide cutter this way! I've NEVER seen anybody else do it this way before. Its also "almost" impossible to bend the extended carbide cutters.

I know without question,that there are people out there, that will say my method sucks, I'm using the wrong tools, I should be using $2000 worth of specialized porting equipment, blah,blah,blah,etc,etc
All I can say to any of this is... I DON'T THINK SO! Proof is in the pudding! .... Ken O'connor took the time to make videos to show us how to do it at home,and he did it with a DREMEL in his videos! So, if you don't care for my method,thats cool,show us YOURS. The more info on this forum the better as far as I'm concerned. I want to also like see more "HOW TOO" on this forum! I want to be a part of this.

Ok...If there's no pictures it didn't happen right???

You'll get lots of pictures. I promise!!! If I'm missing something,let me know. I'll try to add it. If I made a mistake,I'll admit it and correct it. I'm no expert,but I get the job done!

I'm not that good in front of a camera (videos),but its the instuctions that count! Right?

Ok... With all that out of the way,lets get down to business....





There are a few things you can't skimp on...............SAFETY,PATIENCE,and extended carbide cutters (don't worry,you won't need many).

SAFETY is NUMBER ONE! >>>

#1 WEAR EYE PROTECTION!
Sun glasses don't count. Blinking really fast doesn't count either. It would completely SUCK getting a piece of metal in your eye because of stupidity of being lazy. Eye doctors aren't cheap! Don't be stupid!

#2 WEAR A DUST MASK!
You would be amazed at how small these metal particles can get,and they're sharp! Yes... you can accidentally inhale this crap! The mask also helps to prevent you from blowing the "cuttings" in your eyes (see rule #1 above). Sure your eye protection will fog up,but it gives you a chance to walk away,take a break,get something to drink,and let the air compressor refill.

#3 NO DISTRACTIONS!
Turn off the cell phone,get your "honey do" list finished in advance,and let people know that you don't want to be bothered for a while. Oh yeah...one other thing... Put on some music you like. I believe it helps.

#4 GOOD LIGHTING!
Please don't fool yourself into thinking that your going to port anything with a quarter watt light bulb swinging five feet above your head in a dark garage. Go grab your drop light,clamp on light from the hardware store,or even a lamp from the living room. A small "led" flash light too... (you'll see why very soon).

More up dates coming very soon!!!

In the meantime check out race logic. We'll be using these templates.

Race Logic: World Class Performance

No I don't work for John. He just does a great job when designing these templates! He actually answers questions,and is a joy to talk to. He designs RELIABILITY into these templates,which is important! EXCELLENT PRODUCT!

 

[89blaster89]

Re: Joeak47's thread on HOW TO DO an "Aggresive Trail" port on your blaster's cylinde

sweet! cant wait for this!!

 

[dksix]

Re: Joeak47's thread on HOW TO DO an "Aggresive Trail" port on your blaster's cylinde

Let the learning begin!

 

[doodleaddict]

Re: Joeak47's thread on HOW TO DO an "Aggresive Trail" port on your blaster's cylinde

quite interested in this

 

[joeak47]

Re: Joeak47's thread on HOW TO DO an "Aggresive Trail" port on your blaster's cylinde

Here is a comparison of a few "Port maps" from a stock cylinder,a vito's 240cc cylinder,and the race logic's porting templates.

Port maps... Stock cylinder ...... top row
Vito's 240 cylinder.... middle row
Race Logic's porting templates... bottom row

The race logic templates are more "aggresive" than a stock DT 200 cylinder. Keep in mind that you are looking at them on a flat surface. Its WAY different when layed up in the cylinder.

Here are the templates and the stock and vito's port maps over-laid for some comparisons.
Remember... A little is alot!

Race Logic porting templates over-laying the stock port map.
More everywhere!

Race Logic porting teplates over-laying the Vito's 240cc port map (front view)

The Vito's port map over-laying the Race logic porting templates. You can see that the vito's exhaust port timing opens a bit earlier. Intakes are about the same.

The vito's has auxilary exhaust ports. I'll try cutting these into a stock cylinder later on in a different project thread. For now I'm just showing comparisons.

 

[joeak47]

Re: Joeak47's thread on HOW TO DO an "Aggresive Trail" port on your blaster's cylinde

Before you start cutting, there are a few things you need to gather up....

Get some safety goggles,or safety glasses,and some type of respirator,or paper filter masks. These are important. Also pick up a shop apron. They're not terribly expensive.

SAFETY EQUIPMENT! IMPORTANT!

Get an inexpensive shop apron.

Now you have to pick up,or borrow some of the following...

The extended die grinder is what I prefer. This inexpensive model from "Harbor Freight" cost me a little over $15 bucks with the 20% off coupon. Its been working great! Its item # 99698 if your interested.
You could also use one of the shorty die grinders and get the same results,but I prefer the longer one.

The inexpensive extended die grinder

The neat thing about the model number #99698,is that it comes with both a 1/4" collet and a 1/8" collet. All your dremel items will fit the 1/8" collet. A bonus!

These sanding cartridges are very handy and speed up the clean up process. After I use the sanding drums,I finish the process by hand. These cartridges cost abot $17 bucks with the 20% off coupon.

Sanding cartridges # 96826

Here are the 6" extended double cut carbide cutters you will need. They will last a long time if you take care of them. I found these on ebay. The price for these are all over the map. Just use the drop down menu and select "lowest price first".

Here's a set here for $48.95 free shipping its the least expensive I could find...
4pc Long Reach Carbide Burr Bit Set Pro-Grade New | eBay

complete universal set

Really close view...The tine 1/8" double cut doesn't come in the set. Its just another one that sometimes comes in handy

Like I said before... you will need good lighting. Usually a well lit shop will suffice,but extra light is a plus! A small "LED" flashlight can be mounted outside the cylinder and puts out great light.
Now for the GLOVES... VERY IMPORTANT! Keep reading...

The gloves you will need are the very inexpensive "Jersey" gloves. They are about $5 bucks out the door at walmart for six pair! These gloves are slippery! What I mean by that,is that they don't have any type of sticky,tacky covering or dots. No coating that promotes grip or adhesion to what your trying to grip. They have to be slippery! In other words these are the gloves you DON'T WANT when working in a warehouse enviroment.

The glove that will be supporting and guiding the carbide shaft also acts like both a "Bearing" and a "clutch" because its "slippery". Thats why it can't be tacky. I'll explain in a bit.

Here are a few pictures of how you will be holding the die grinder/carbide cutter assembly when porting. When I get the video up, I'll explain thoroughly how all this works.

Stay tuned! More coming.......

 

[93BoxRyder]

Re: Joeak47's thread on HOW TO DO an "Aggresive Trail" port on your blaster's cylinde

Awesome! Looking forward to more!

 

[joeak47]

Re: Joeak47's thread on HOW TO DO an "Aggresive Trail" port on your blaster's cylinde

Here are a few more things that you will need....

Dykem lay out fluid...Or "Improvise" with a marks-a-lot,or perhaps even some black spray paint. I haven't used the spray paint method,but I believe that is will work.

You will also need a set of "Race logic" porting templates.

Race Logic: What is the SportPort Porting Template System?

The other item you will need is a "right angle" scribe. You can "Improvise" by making your own buy grinding a small piece of steel rod to a point,then bending it at a right angle. I believe it would be much easier to purchase a scribe at your local lowes,home depot,or auto supply store such as napa.

Lay out fluid,marks-a-lot,etc

Here's an up close shot of the templates...

You will notice that they are marked "Cylinder Top" and "Cylinder Bottom".
These edges need to be parallel to they're respective surfaces on the cylinder.

Before we start laying out the templates,go scrub that cylinder clean! There is nothing worse than trying to work on a dirty,greasy cylinder.
If its dirty and greasy,the lay out fluid won't adhere to the cast iron liner,and you will get to do this all over again.

Look at it this way... If you don't have time to do it right the first time,how are you going to find the time to go back and do it all over again?

I scrub the cylinder in a bucket of hot soapy water. I use dawn dish washing liquid,because "dawn gets grease out of your way".

The cylinder will get some "flash" rust on it when it dries. This is normal You can take it off later.

 

[joeak47]

Re: Joeak47's thread on HOW TO DO an "Aggresive Trail" port on your blaster's cylinde

Untitled Document

^^^^^^^ The Sport Port manual is right here ^^^^^^^

If you plan on doing this, you are going to want to take a few moments to read this manual,and when your done,read it again. It explains things pretty well. I'll be showing you the "How to" with pictures and videos.

The Sport Port manual is no longer included when the templates are purchased. The reason for this,is because if things need to be changed,its much easier to update things on they're web site. Makes sense.

 

[sporty982000]

Re: Joeak47's thread on HOW TO DO an "Aggresive Trail" port on your blaster's cylinde

This is awesome stuff Joe !


wow, thanks for the link to this. this is what I have been interest in seeig, reading and more.

Sporty

 

[ducote]

Re: Joeak47's thread on HOW TO DO an "Aggresive Trail" port on your blaster's cylinde

Hi! Where can i get the templates?

 

[Awk08]

Re: Joeak47's thread on HOW TO DO an "Aggresive Trail" port on your blaster's cylinde

Hi! Where can i get the templates?

try the race logic website
Race Logic: World Class Performance

but i'd call them to be sure whats on the site is up to date.
let us know in this thread what ya find out.

 

[ducote]

Re: Joeak47's thread on HOW TO DO an "Aggresive Trail" port on your blaster's cylinde

I have been sending a lot of emails... but have no response...can anybody help me?

 

[Awk08]

Re: Joeak47's thread on HOW TO DO an "Aggresive Trail" port on your blaster's cylinde

I have been sending a lot of emails... but have no response...can anybody help me?

call ken @ kenoconnorracing.com
he has an account with Race Logic
860-230-5003

 

[DLStryker]

Re: Joeak47's thread on HOW TO DO an "Aggresive Trail" port on your blaster's cylinde

Joeak47, they say to blend the new port opening of the modified port window 5 to 10mm back into the port tunnel. What is the performance difference between 5mm vs. 10mm? Does it change the difference in when the power band hits? Is one a little more top end and the other a little more bottom end? Maybe little to no difference.... just wondering.

 

[Larry's Shee]

Re: Joeak47's thread on HOW TO DO an "Aggresive Trail" port on your blaster's cylinde

Don't know which port you are refering to, but "blending" is term used for making a smooth, even transition from one size/shape of port to another. No sudden changes of cross section size/shape. This helps the flow to not have "eddys" or bottlenecks.

Open the exhaust to the inside dia of the donut gasket and "blend" it all the way back to port window (hole in cylinder). Also smooth/blend bottom of transfers at the bottom of cylinder.

 

[best]

Re: Joeak47's thread on HOW TO DO an "Aggresive Trail" port on your blaster's cylinde

Joeak47, they say to blend the new port opening of the modified port window 5 to 10mm back into the port tunnel. What is the performance difference between 5mm vs. 10mm? Does it change the difference in when the power band hits? Is one a little more top end and the other a little more bottom end? Maybe little to no difference.... just wondering.

The "5 to 10mm" business has to do with how much of the old port was cut away. In the corners where a lot of window was cut away you will need to blend in at least 10mm, on the bottom edge of the port window you may do almost no blending.

Cutting more metal from any port, intake, exhaust, or transfers, tends to take away from low rpm and mid-range power. Not always, but usually.

Steve

 

[DLStryker]

Re: Joeak47's thread on HOW TO DO an "Aggresive Trail" port on your blaster's cylinde

The "5 to 10mm" business has to do with how much of the old port was cut away. In the corners where a lot of window was cut away you will need to blend in at least 10mm, on the bottom edge of the port window you may do almost no blending.

Cutting more metal from any port, intake, exhaust, or transfers, tends to take away from low rpm and mid-range power. Not always, but usually.

Steve

Great explanation! Thanks.