Blaner
Your Friendly South African Ambassador
yeah, ok thanks, il chat to him, it may be more hassle and cash than it worth. are Vitos the only suppliers for the +3 crank? im a bit weary of their quality and will rather go LA sleeve for the BBK.
stroker
- Thread starter biggrobb762
- Start date
i havent heard anything bad about their cranks, but personally im telling u have ur stock cylinder sleeved with an la sleeve, wish i would have gone that route or got the la sleeve but they are out of stock right now for the actual cylinder kit.
go with the la sleeve +3 vitos stroker crank, thats what i would do, not too expensive and u wont be disappointed
go with the la sleeve +3 vitos stroker crank, thats what i would do, not too expensive and u wont be disappointed
WTF someone is feeding you boys some real b.s. "vibrating your arms off" you've gotta be kidding me. I'm not trying to sell anything so I'm not pushing it, but that's ridiculous to tell people It vibrates so bad that it has to be ballanced for 400 bux.. That's getting bent over right there and misleading info. My long rod setup wasn't expensive at all either... Guess if you want to pay more for a engine setup hop on the band wagon and listen to the rants and raves and flush your money away. Not trying to bash anyone but I'm tired of reading over and over "this does this" but "that's what I've read" and no experience to any of the written claims. Nothing but ranting. It's impossible to get honest correct info unless it's strait from someone who doesn't gain anything by telling you something but is still running that same motor..just my opinion..
Ken doesn't work for falicon and paid the to have his crank balanced by them... I fail to see the problem with quoting him on it.
The disadvantage to a long rod crank (stroked or not) is that it's not an off the shelf item. You have a perfectly good (possibly new) crank with a good rod on it and press it apart. Purchase a banshee rod and bearing setup for it, and then press it back together. Not like you can just order it up.
Vito's makes the +3 crank, hot rods makes the +4. The vito's crank doesn't require extensive crankcase modification because vito's purposefully makde the big end of the rod slightly smaller to fit inside the case. Hot rods used a factory spec rod with crank throws that are 2mm farther to the outside than a factory crank throw. Because the factory big end of the rod nearly touches the crankcase anyway, the +4 hot rod crank has to have a relief cut out of the middle of the crankcase (as known as trenching) so the big end of the rod has room to spin around in there.
I ordered a vito's +3 crank last week. I don't want to weaken my crankcase mating surface any more than necessary and will take the small hit on potential top end horsepower for it.
My long rod motor will be coming out and an aggressive trail ported factory top end for a +3 will be going on the +3 crank.
conquest, is yours a +4 stroker +5 long rod? Was yours not balanced in any special way?
The disadvantage to a long rod crank (stroked or not) is that it's not an off the shelf item. You have a perfectly good (possibly new) crank with a good rod on it and press it apart. Purchase a banshee rod and bearing setup for it, and then press it back together. Not like you can just order it up.
Vito's makes the +3 crank, hot rods makes the +4. The vito's crank doesn't require extensive crankcase modification because vito's purposefully makde the big end of the rod slightly smaller to fit inside the case. Hot rods used a factory spec rod with crank throws that are 2mm farther to the outside than a factory crank throw. Because the factory big end of the rod nearly touches the crankcase anyway, the +4 hot rod crank has to have a relief cut out of the middle of the crankcase (as known as trenching) so the big end of the rod has room to spin around in there.
I ordered a vito's +3 crank last week. I don't want to weaken my crankcase mating surface any more than necessary and will take the small hit on potential top end horsepower for it.
My long rod motor will be coming out and an aggressive trail ported factory top end for a +3 will be going on the +3 crank.
conquest, is yours a +4 stroker +5 long rod? Was yours not balanced in any special way?
No brotha...not balanced at all..it's been trued and that's it...don't know what all this vibrating talk is about.
That part is something I have "heard" I am simply repeating.
My long rod motor vibrates a bit but most blaster's do... I'm fairly sure nothing special was done (as far as balancing) to my crank.
I'm not sure if the vibration problem is a function of the stroker big bore piston. It may not be much vibration at all, just more than ken felt comfortable with. He may have had concerns about the lifespan of the bearings with the level of vibration and would rather have the crank balanced than replace bearings quite frequently. I'm not sure of the details.
Even if vibration and $375 worth of balancing weren't a factor, I still wouldn't go with a long rod unless I was shooting for a HP goal that was unattainble with another engine setup, necessitating a long rod crank.
My long rod motor vibrates a bit but most blaster's do... I'm fairly sure nothing special was done (as far as balancing) to my crank.
I'm not sure if the vibration problem is a function of the stroker big bore piston. It may not be much vibration at all, just more than ken felt comfortable with. He may have had concerns about the lifespan of the bearings with the level of vibration and would rather have the crank balanced than replace bearings quite frequently. I'm not sure of the details.
Even if vibration and $375 worth of balancing weren't a factor, I still wouldn't go with a long rod unless I was shooting for a HP goal that was unattainble with another engine setup, necessitating a long rod crank.
It just sounds more like someone is in kahoots with certain company's to me. I've had no low end issues what so ever for 3-4 years on this motor and I ride the ever loving piss outa it.
Just to clear a few things up. I noticed vibration in my engine when I went from a stock bore / stroke to a +4 crank and a 72 mm piston. Makes sense. I rode it that way all of last year. It was fine. When I installed the longer rod, I decided to have the crank balanced. Much less vibration. Also makes sense. I'm not pushing anything on anyone. Just reporting my findings. 442 also wanted his balanced. It was his decision. Not an inexpensive mod but it was worth it to me and within my budget. There are plenty of big bores out there that run great and aren't balanced. I've sent three cranks to Falicon in my life. All of them were sold to the customer at cost. The allegation that a huge company like Falicon would be in kahoots with me to promote their product is ludicrous. Anyone that has ever spoken to me will tell you I'm not a pushy guy. I sell engine parts at retail but also offer the customer the option of getting their own parts if they want. How do I benefit from that? I don't.
my wife would be pissed if i got the blasty balanced so there were no good, good, good, good vibrations... lmfao I:I 
Ok well all I keep hearing on here is that you need to have a crank balanced or it will rattle your teeth out, so naturally it would sound like it's being pushed...and I know how some shops are in the windham county area...I'm happy that it's just people twisting your words up in translation.
I look forward to seeing one of these motors and how much smoother than mine it will be in september at busco.
From the horses mouth, just a comfort issue. Glad to hear and clears up confusion.
If you have a machine shop you're in "kahoots" and you can go over there and tinker with your engine all the time, the long rod is an interesting modification. I wouldn't purposefully split a perfectly good crank apart to install a long rod, maybe if the rod was already bad and it was an option versus getting it rebuilt with the standard rod?
If you have a machine shop you're in "kahoots" and you can go over there and tinker with your engine all the time, the long rod is an interesting modification. I wouldn't purposefully split a perfectly good crank apart to install a long rod, maybe if the rod was already bad and it was an option versus getting it rebuilt with the standard rod?
Blaner
Your Friendly South African Ambassador
Thanks Ken, glad to have to have you chime in, i agree with sicivic, i think its something id only do if/when id need to change the rod long after the +3 and BBK have been installed and used etc. but from what ive heard, it not necessary to do up front. i like the idea of a CT Sonic BBK, mayb il go that route with a Vitos +3 next year once iv finished my studies.
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