I have an 01 Yamaha Blaster. Its just been rebuilt. I'm not sure as to how much its been bored over. But its wicked fast. I'm already fixing to look at a full FMF exhaust kit and am FMF jet kit. My question to you guys is what other mods are out there. And I'm kind of on a budget but I'm wiling to spend some money if it will be worth it. Thanks
Simple upgrades for more power
- Thread starter Screaminblaster
- Start date
With a full exhaust kit and it being bore over. What size jets should I look for. And how many do I have other than the main
Cylinder porting is $175 and $60 to rechamber the head. $225 plus shipping. Ken Oconnor is the man. Google ken oconnor racing and give him a call. Give him your budget and what type of riding you do and he will hook you up.
I have a local mechanic machine shop I usually deal with. Been around machining motors for years. I may call them and see what they could do
Its been bored over already. Does any one know what I should look for as far as putting a different main jet in for added power
The reason I recommended Ken Oconnor is because he has boat loads of experience with these motors. I'm sure the machine shop does great work, but can they tell you what is a good exhaust duration for a trail bike? Highly doubtful.
Leave the main jet in there until you do some mods. Putting a bigger main jet in without doing anything else will actually make it perform worse.
Leave the main jet in there until you do some mods. Putting a bigger main jet in without doing anything else will actually make it perform worse.
If you're looking to jetting to make power, you need to step back for a minute. Jetting is one of those things that you should describe as "accurate" or "properly set up". Your jetting should be adjusted for fuel delivery, which is dependent on air flow which generally increases proportionally with horsepower. Jetted for more power isn't a term I'd use, but jetted for the pipe you have would be.
As for the head work, you can take it to a machine shop and tell them to deck the head, but they'll probably charge you the same as a re-cut dome which would be a much better choice. I came up building V8s and the only thing that transitioned over to 2Ts was general mechanic knowledge. Even with the off-hand knowledge that someone like Jon Bennett has of building Ford engines, I'd never send my cylinder(s) to him.
The untrained eye can't determine a bad port job from a good one. I have a good friend that can cut a set of ports that should be in National Geographic, but they've never been worth anything because he doesn't know what he's doing; he just knows how to use his hands.
As for the head work, you can take it to a machine shop and tell them to deck the head, but they'll probably charge you the same as a re-cut dome which would be a much better choice. I came up building V8s and the only thing that transitioned over to 2Ts was general mechanic knowledge. Even with the off-hand knowledge that someone like Jon Bennett has of building Ford engines, I'd never send my cylinder(s) to him.
The untrained eye can't determine a bad port job from a good one. I have a good friend that can cut a set of ports that should be in National Geographic, but they've never been worth anything because he doesn't know what he's doing; he just knows how to use his hands.
The wonderful thing about these motors is that you can do one mod at a time and see what makes power and what doesn't. I'd suggest the rechambered head first. Best bang for your buck. $60 will take you from 17hp to nearly 30. Learn how to set the squish gap up and how to jet to get the most power and reliability out of your set up. Listen to tfaith08. Good advice.
Steve
Steve
Thanks best.
Back to the original topic
-Move the filter closer to the carb however you can. A custom boot would do pretty well. You can make a template out of some thin sheet metal and then have it welded. No sharp bends, slight taper in the shape. OR, drill a few holes in your airbox lid. I drilled about 40x 1/4" holes throughout the one I just built before I took the lid off. It helped out a bit. Use a UNI filter and it'll do well. $22 IIRC
-----A mod I'm going to try out soon is going to be making a large venturi stack that clamps on to the carb and actually sits in the filter and the filter clamps on to a bracket that sits around the outside of the tube. It'll be sort of like a lot of aftermarket intake manifolds for import cars that have the manifold body welded around the stacks, which protrude into the body by about an inch.
-Make sure your carb is snug up into the boot. There is a piece in the boot that attempts to make a smooth transition from the carb to the stuffer. If you aren't all the way in that, you'll lose out on a little flow.
-Increase the plug gap. I always start with everything at .015" and work up by .005 until it starts to miss and I drop it by .001 until it clears back up. When it runs fine, I drop .002" more to account for a more stressful atmosphere later down the road. My RB25 in my old Nissan had .032" stock, but by the time I finished all the modifications, I ended up with a .020. My banshee is at .078, while the 250R is at .070. Each setup is different.
Clean the plug boot. Sounds small, but it matters. Just do it.
Re-cut the dome. It can be cut for race or pump gas, low end or top end power, etc. $50-115 depending on the shop. More expensive doesn't always mean better.
Get it ported. KOR, Flotek, Herr Jugs, LED (formerly LRD), F.A.S.T., and a small hand-full of others are good. $150-300 Again, more expensive doesn't mean better, but from all I've ever seen and heard, the ones I listed are great.
Research some piston mods. (best knows quite a bit about those)
Back to the original topic
-Move the filter closer to the carb however you can. A custom boot would do pretty well. You can make a template out of some thin sheet metal and then have it welded. No sharp bends, slight taper in the shape. OR, drill a few holes in your airbox lid. I drilled about 40x 1/4" holes throughout the one I just built before I took the lid off. It helped out a bit. Use a UNI filter and it'll do well. $22 IIRC
-----A mod I'm going to try out soon is going to be making a large venturi stack that clamps on to the carb and actually sits in the filter and the filter clamps on to a bracket that sits around the outside of the tube. It'll be sort of like a lot of aftermarket intake manifolds for import cars that have the manifold body welded around the stacks, which protrude into the body by about an inch.
-Make sure your carb is snug up into the boot. There is a piece in the boot that attempts to make a smooth transition from the carb to the stuffer. If you aren't all the way in that, you'll lose out on a little flow.
-Increase the plug gap. I always start with everything at .015" and work up by .005 until it starts to miss and I drop it by .001 until it clears back up. When it runs fine, I drop .002" more to account for a more stressful atmosphere later down the road. My RB25 in my old Nissan had .032" stock, but by the time I finished all the modifications, I ended up with a .020. My banshee is at .078, while the 250R is at .070. Each setup is different.
Clean the plug boot. Sounds small, but it matters. Just do it.
Re-cut the dome. It can be cut for race or pump gas, low end or top end power, etc. $50-115 depending on the shop. More expensive doesn't always mean better.
Get it ported. KOR, Flotek, Herr Jugs, LED (formerly LRD), F.A.S.T., and a small hand-full of others are good. $150-300 Again, more expensive doesn't mean better, but from all I've ever seen and heard, the ones I listed are great.
Research some piston mods. (best knows quite a bit about those)
Similar threads
