Cheap easy power pleeeeease

[MastaBlastuh]

Whats up friends! Just picked me up a sweet little blaster for the cheap. Its been a while since iv had a ride and now i want a fast one. Normally i wouldnt go this route but considering they do occaisonally blow up, id like to go for some cheap easy power.

Iv read a bunch of forums, done a bunch of research but im still torn on which way to go. The kind of riding i do is typically trails. But between trails i like to get stupid fast. Bikes old and i doubt its had a top end redone on it in years so it needs a new one anyway. I want high compression and as many extra ccs as possible without changing the crank. So, with that being said lets get started.

Im thinking about a big bore kit. I want more cubic inches. But, id really like to buy a kit thats already ported and just bolts up if they make em... dont want to go to a machine shop if i dont have to. I do NOT want to have to split the case. So the stock crank has to do. When it comes to power range im thinking the mid range is where i want it. So as of now, i know i want to get a toomey fatty, (already have an fmf silencer) vitos +4 woodrif key and a hemi high comp head to put a little back in the top end and a 14t front sprocket

Long story long, whats the best big bore kit and what kind of reeds and what kind of carb would be best for mid range power and bolts right up? 93 octane is readily available and if at all possible id like to stay with that. Again, if something comes ported i would lean towards that to save a trip to machine shop.

Lastly, suspension upgrades will come soon enough. As of now im just worried about getting the best power i can without splitting the case and having to go to the machine shop.

Thanks in advance!!

 

[Larry's Shee]

They only blow up from lack of maintenance and ignorance

 

[Larry's Shee]

First off most machine shops don’t do porting or split cases, unless they specialize in that type of work. Second of all NOT replacing the crank is related to my first post.
You can get nearly as much power from a ported stock cylinder as a big bore. Nobody offers a ported cylinder UNLESS You pay for it !!

You should replace or at least rebuild your stock crank for reliability. (See first post) A Vito’s 3mil is really the best and easiest route. If you don’t have the ability to split the cases I wonder if you should do more than just bolt ons.

I’ll add more later

 

[MastaBlastuh]

I suppose i should add, i dont have to go full on fastest blaster in the midwest. But stock they arnt all that great tbh. I would def like to be able to keep up with 400s. I really dont want to have to split the case. But now that you mention it, it probably is a good idea. I doubt the bottom end has ever been redone... one day soon id like to sell the bike and get back on a 450 r. So i guess adding any sort of value would be good too.

So nobody offers a big bore kit thats already ported? Seems kinda silly. I didnt spend hours looking, but i didnt see to many pirted options and i read somewhere the vitos ported kit isnt actually a ported kit

 

[Larry's Shee]

I’ve looked at Banshee cylinders from driveline and they come as cast. Same as others. A “clean up port” basically just removes excess casting flaws/flash. Which is easy to do on a blaster.
You talk about cheap power, but nothing is cheap. You’re still going to spend a couple hundred just to get 5-6 more horses out of it.

Here’s a decent recipe to get more out for a reasonable price.

Pipe, UNI air filter, no lid, two stage reeds (I use Vito’s on both Blaster and Banshee) a re-chambered head is about $75. A rechambered head is far better than just milling it because the stock combustion chamber isn’t designed for power.

A fresh top end will help tons.

First thing to do is a compression test.
If you’re below 115 it’s time.
Don’t be cheap on the rebuild. Don’t waste your money on an eBay /amazon chinese crap. If you don’t have a reliable machine shop near you here are two places I recommend

https://www.lakesmotorsports.biz/
Last I knew offered free return shipping on cylinder kits. I’ve known Mike for 20+ years https://www.lakesmotorsports.biz/

http://www.kenoconnorracing.com/ Ken also does headrechamber, though last I heard he is swamped

Here’s another big bore other than Vito’s https://www.google.com/search?q=c+t...uMTIuOJgBAKABAbABDw&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-hp

You could also consider doing some porting yourself. Might be some ScrewTube videos or Ken has a video available on it

If/when you take the top end off it’s really easy to check/inspect the crank

 

[Larry's Shee]

Crank inspection is no up/down play in rod and side play in thousands

 

[MastaBlastuh]

I’ve looked at Banshee cylinders from driveline and they come as cast. Same as others. A “clean up port” basically just removes excess casting flaws/flash. Which is easy to do on a blaster.
You talk about cheap power, but nothing is cheap. You’re still going to spend a couple hundred just to get 5-6 more horses out of it.

Here’s a decent recipe to get more out for a reasonable price.

Pipe, UNI air filter, no lid, two stage reeds (I use Vito’s on both Blaster and Banshee) a re-chambered head is about $75. A rechambered head is far better than just milling it because the stock combustion chamber isn’t designed for power.

A fresh top end will help tons.

First thing to do is a compression test.
If you’re below 115 it’s time.
Don’t be cheap on the rebuild. Don’t waste your money on an eBay /amazon chinese crap. If you don’t have a reliable machine shop near you here are two places I recommend

https://www.lakesmotorsports.biz/
Last I knew offered free return shipping on cylinder kits. I’ve known Mike for 20+ years

http://www.kenoconnorracing.com/ Ken also does headrechamber, though last I heard he is swamped

Here’s another big bore other than Vito’s https://www.google.com/search?q=c+t+sonic+blaster+cylinder+kits&client=safari&channel=iphone_bm&sxsrf=ALiCzsat4uUNlElcDAIaa_WsYyNFqSCokg:1660829246597&source=hp&ei=Pj7-YuyPIp3g0PEP69e6-A8&oq=C+T+Sonic+blaster+cy&gs_lcp=ChFtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1ocBABGAAyBQghEKsCMgUIIRCrAjIFCCEQqwI6CAgAEI8BEOoCOgsILhCABBDHARDRAzoRCC4QgAQQsQMQgwEQxwEQ0QM6CwguELEDEIMBENQCOgsIABCABBCxAxCDAToLCC4QgAQQxwEQrwE6CwguEIAEELEDEIMBOgUIABCABDoICAAQsQMQgwE6BQgAELEDOggIABCABBCxAzoOCC4QsQMQgwEQxwEQ0QM6BQguEIAEOggILhCABBDUAjoGCAAQHhAWOgUIABCGAzoFCCEQoAE6CgghEB4QDxAWEB06CAghEB4QFhAdUJUkWOizAmDqxQJoAnAAeACAAaYCiAGRHpIBBjAuMTIuOJgBAKABAbABDw&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-hp

You could also consider doing some porting yourself. Might be some ScrewTube videos or Ken has a video available on it

If/when you take the top end off it’s really easy to check/inspect the crank

Larry, awesome info here. Thanks for reaching out. Essentially what your saying is buy a big bore kit and send it off to get ported? And head re worked fir high compression? I do plan on getting a good pipe. Was thinking about a toomey. I just want to get the most out of it. If i can avoid splitting the case id like to but of course, if crank is out of limits i will fix that first.

Air box mod is cheep and easy. Il get a jet kit for it. But if i go big bore do i need a bigger carb?

Tha ks again for info

 

[MastaBlastuh]

Just did a compression check. Clockin it about 125 but it takes a bunch of kicks to get there. Im running through the machine right now. Got a tors delete kit so the carb is off. Re did all the wiring and got rid of all the tors stuff.

I feel like it should of registered that number long after the 5th kick. Does this sound right?

 

[Larry's Shee]

Just did a compression check. Clockin it about 125 but it takes a bunch of kicks to get there. Im running through the machine right now. Got a tors delete kit so the carb is off. Re did all the wiring and got rid of all the tors stuff.

I feel like it should of registered that number long after the 5th kick. Does this sound right?

How to do a compression test:
Gas off, throttle wide open, kick until gauge stops moving up.

So many kicks is normal.
Presuming your gauge is good because you got to 125 you’re good to go.