reed or carb?

Jul 5, 2015
78
6
59
38
wabash, IN
Hey I'm new here kinda went over this somewhat in my introduction. I recently found out my reeds are gapping a little. I was riding with a friend of mine and I died 15 min or so into the ride. Thought I fouled another plug so switched it still no start. Checked reeds only had one side I could replace so I swapped the side that was worse. Had to pull start it then it ran great. Checked my carb and cleaned the jets. Have 230 main 32.5 pilot. Pilot was dirty cleaned it. Everything else looked great. Why would I die like that.
 
Well if your reeds are bad that would cause you to die. You fixed one side but the other is still bad I assume? That's why a lot of us carry extra reeds when we ride ( or a crap credit card till you get home). I suggest making a kit with neccesities in it for the trail.

I would put new reeds in
Compression test
Leak test

Once you have the readings from the leak test and compression test you can go from there to see if you need to do anything else or it was in fact only bad reeds.
 
Y
Well if your reeds are bad that would cause you to die. You fixed one side but the other is still bad I assume? That's why a lot of us carry extra reeds when we ride ( or a crap credit card till you get home). I suggest making a kit with neccesities in it for the trail.

I would put new reeds in
Compression test
Leak test

Once you have the readings from the leak test and compression test you can go from there to see if you need to do anything else or it was in fact only bad reeds.

Yeah one side is still bad. From what I've read the boysen reeds will fit the stock cage but all the cages I've seen have the metal stops mine don't. I understand the vf3 or 4 would be my best bet but I'm on a limited budget. Where could I find the stops for it or can I ride without it until I get an upgrade
 
Screenshot_2015-07-08-13-05-41.png
The metal curved pieces are what I'm missing. Mine have the metal strip at the bottom. I checked the eBay link and that's what I plan on getting just didn't know about the curved part.
 
Like it was said before you dont "need" the curved pieces. I have run blaster with and without them. BUT, they can help with stopping premature reed breakage where the reeds attach.I did a quick search and didnt find any one ebay, might have missed something. But maybe someone on here has an extra cage they would be willing to sell cheap.
 
T
Like it was said before you dont "need" the curved pieces. I have run blaster with and without them. BUT, they can help with stopping premature reed breakage where the reeds attach.I did a quick search and didnt find any one ebay, might have missed something. But maybe someone on here has an extra cage they would be willing to sell cheap.
Thanks. Wasn't trying to beat a dead horse just wanted to make sure I was on the same page as Blaaster. Thanks for all the help guys.
 
I think I have the stoppers. I will look this evening. If I do have them than I can surely do better on the price that what is on E bay. I might have a new set of reeds also..
 
20150712_124303.jpg
So I went to autozone and got a compression tester for atvs. And here's the results. From what I've read compression needs to be around 120 correct? Went to harware stores around here looking for parts to build a leak down tester too but was out of luck.
 
According to your compression test it suggests you do need a top end rebuild. This would cause hard starting etc like you explained.

The thing is,, can that compression tester be trusted ??? In my experience with cheaper compression testers is that they are never correct. Well maybe until it gets jolted hard or dropped and then there useless. The cheapest ones that I have found to be correct are a Sears/Craftsman.

SO all in all. With the symptoms you are having and being there is a chance the comp tester is correct or close. You need a new top end basically the rings are worn, cylinder out of taper, out of round etc.

You would need,
Cylinder bore/hone and port chamfer
New piston kit, Piston, rings, wrist pin, circlips, wrist pin/small end bearing
Oem or Cometic brand Top end gasket set, base, head, exhaust, intake gaskets.

And still a leakdown tester.
Check the crank for play when the top end is off. But most importantly is to do a leakdown test BEFORE you pull the top end off. This way you will find out if any of your seals are leaking and you can replace them while top end is being bored etc..
 
Last edited: