How do I ajust the back brake. I have adjusted the cable and still not working right. I put new pads on it when I built the bike so I assume I didn't adjust it right.
Any help?
Any help?
Rear Brakes
- Thread starter dnoftz
- Start date
Spend some time reading through the DIY section, you will find lots of good info there.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/cable-rear-brakes-how-make-them-work-3830/
A lot of people will tell you they are sh*tty and to ditch them for hydros. Following the DIY I posted up there ^^ I had the cable brakes locking up the rears in no time.
I still switched up to hydros because they are no doubt an improvement, but don't give up on the rear cables just yet.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/cable-rear-brakes-how-make-them-work-3830/
A lot of people will tell you they are sh*tty and to ditch them for hydros. Following the DIY I posted up there ^^ I had the cable brakes locking up the rears in no time.
I still switched up to hydros because they are no doubt an improvement, but don't give up on the rear cables just yet.
If you still have the parking break, then you're likely fighting the cable. It wasn't the best design, but luckly you can buy a shorty cable for $30 on ebay, which will eliminate the parking and give you better rear break performance.
Also make sure all the rear mechinism pieces are all clean and greased up.
If you just want complete rear hydros for under $200, contact Awk for his set up. I still run the cable rear and don't have any problems.
Good luck!
Also make sure all the rear mechinism pieces are all clean and greased up.
If you just want complete rear hydros for under $200, contact Awk for his set up. I still run the cable rear and don't have any problems.
Good luck!
adjusting the cable is just that, on the brakes or the clutch or anything else with a cable, adjusting it is just taking the slop out of a stretched cable, not making up for worn pads or clutch fibers, they both have their own adjustments inside, the brakes have a "self adjusting" white disc,< that does not work properly and never self adjusts, you must open the caliper and turn it till you feel the pads just barely touch,
then put the cover back on, which pushes on it, and try them, if they need more, give it to them, if too tight, remove the white disc and use a screwdriver to loosen the actual adjusting worm screw mechanism and try try again
and most people who switch to hydro's do so becuase this above mentioned procedure only lasts so long and needs done repeatedly over the course of a riding season as the pads wear, and mainly because ....sure you can get them to "lock up"
but thats basically all they do, lock up, no slowing down with progressive braking as hydro's provide, just lock up and slide the rear tires
try locking them up and sliding the whole way down a very steep hill which requires a controlled slow decent, locking up the rear tires will actually cause you to gain speed ?
but they can be made to work somewhat, for a little while, with routine internal adjusting
then put the cover back on, which pushes on it, and try them, if they need more, give it to them, if too tight, remove the white disc and use a screwdriver to loosen the actual adjusting worm screw mechanism and try try again
and most people who switch to hydro's do so becuase this above mentioned procedure only lasts so long and needs done repeatedly over the course of a riding season as the pads wear, and mainly because ....sure you can get them to "lock up"
but thats basically all they do, lock up, no slowing down with progressive braking as hydro's provide, just lock up and slide the rear tires
try locking them up and sliding the whole way down a very steep hill which requires a controlled slow decent, locking up the rear tires will actually cause you to gain speed ?
but they can be made to work somewhat, for a little while, with routine internal adjusting
