Post-rebuild engine problems, be my hero!

[mvyooper]

OK gents, I've been reading and studying your posts over the past month in preparation for rebuilding my blaster engine. A big thanks to you all (ken o'connnor's videos and expertise in particular) for an awesome site and making me a lot smarter on the 2-stroke.
I rebuilt the both ends (wiseco crank kit, piston overbore, etc.). I replaced all seals and gaskets, performed a leakdown test (held 7 lbs indefinitely), compression check (121 lbs) yet I have a problem. I'm on the break in process.

Here's the problem: Starts on the 2nd kick and idles fine (not great). Bogs if I give it any gas. I cleaned the carb (twice). TORs disconnected. Keihlin carb, idle mixture screw 1 1/2 turns out. Pre-mix gas, 32:1, oil injector blocked off.

Also, oil coming out of exhaust port. Not pouring out, but enough to make a mess.

OK, be my hero and solve my problem(s). I'm already a huge fan, but impress me with solving this riddle!

 

[brandoz28]

what jetting in the keihin carb? what does the spark plug look like? is it blackened?

 

[royalt67]

Ditto on the jetting, also what size is it?

Tors removal? What year bike is this and what exactly did you do?

 

[mvyooper]

Blaster is a 2000. Original case was cracked after the top end detonated. I left it sitting in my garage for about 3 years. For a winter project, last month I bought a nicely priced parts bike with a worn engine (sloppy crank, low compression). I had the top end machined/bored at a machine shop and went with the standard oversize piston/ring combo (mik'd/measured at a reputable atv shop). I split the cases, cleaned everything, installed new main bearings, seals, and the wiesco crank/rod kit.
I'm not sure on the size of the pwk keihin carb but it came on the parts bike and looks brand new, open K&N filter with outerwear cover. I have the carb on my desk in front of me. Pilot Jet: 50; Main Jet: 158.

On the TORS, obviously the carb cap piece is gone and I unplugged the module under the hood. The wires from the module and thumb throttle are taped off and I left hanging (ungrounded). I'm not sure what I did with the wire that went to the OEM carb hat, but I think it's hanging loose as well.

Thanks again for the help.

 

[Awk08]

hows the reeds look ????????
and without any other mods....pipe, porting, head work, your better off with a stock carb

what you did to the tors wires all sounds good, did you unplug the brain under the hood ???? it's on the right near the cdi, not sure off hand what color wires, 2 or 3 i think, but the cdi has more

also, we need a size on that carb, that pilot sounds too big, and what position is the needle clip on ???? try raising the clip one groove at a time and see how it reacts ????

also, just adjusting the airscrew to 1 1/2 isnt the answer, the bike will tell you where it wants it, set the idle a little high and play with it, 1/4 to 1/2 turn at a time till it idles at its highest, if its under 1 turn out, go up on pilot, over 2 turns out, go down in size
after you get close to the size it wants, repeat the 1/2 turn/highest rev part, and see if it revs clean, keep fooling with it till it does

 

[mvyooper]

I was waiting for AWK to share his expertise, thanks man! TORS is disconnected under the hood. Wires coming from thumb throttle are also disconnected. I didn't do anything else else with those wires other than ensure they were hanging free in the air and off the frame.

Carb is the PWK 28mm.

Reeds looked ok (not new) and weren't missing pieces or bent. Let air through when I blew into the cage, closed when I sucked. It does have a cage spacer (in order to provide carb clearance). New gaskets between each piece.

I'm still leaning towards a TORS issue. The plug is new and although wet, not at all dirty or fouled.

 

[Awk08]

jets way to big for that carb, its only slightly bigger than stoxk
my 34mmpj with all the mods i'm running only wants a 45 pilot in it, and was at 155 main in summer, then to a 162 later in the cooler months
i'm gonna bet the air screw has no effect on that size pilot ????
try a 38 - 42- 45 pilot, working your way down, , till ir likes the airscrew under 2 turns out, needle clip in the middle and let that main alone till we get it to idle and rev good
then report back private mvyooper

 

[mvyooper]

OK, I will give the new pilot jet(s) a try and learn how the hell to adjust the needle clip setting. And then report back as instructed my blaster master.

 

[super noober]

x2 on being way rich, drop your jet sizes a few and she how she does. is your airbox lid currently off? if not take it off and see if that helps things.

 

[mvyooper]

No airbox lid. Clamp on K&N filter. I'm trying to track down jets for this carb now but so far no one up here (Green Bay, WI area) carries them in stock. Might be a day or 2 before I can get them and see what it does. Beyond frustrating at this point but if new smaller jets solve the problem, simple and I'm finally riding after a proper break-in!
Thanks again for everyone's assistance.

 

[royalt67]

Sounds good so far, doesn't sound like a TORS issue, especially if you have unplugged the control box already.

X3 on the jetting. Stock jetting for a PWK28 is 38, 135. Note my jetting on my 94 (in red below). This works well for me on a piped, open-airbox, otherwise stock motor, and is just a little on the rich side. What isn't in my sig is that the needle is on either #2 or #3 slot from top. I want to say #2 but I'm not positive. Defininitely get the pilot dialed in, as AWK said. Both the idle and pilot circuits should be right before worrying about the main, since they affect it.

 

[mvyooper]

OK guys, changed jets to a 40 pilot, 140 main. Ensured the needle was middle clip. Same problem. Starts on the 2nd kick, idles fine, bogs as soon as I touch the gas.

Pulled plug, nasty oily. Put a new plug in. Also, dumped the gas and mixed a fresh gallon, 32:1. Same result: bogging POS.

Pulled off the keihin carb and put the OEM mikuni on. Checked reeds again and all looked fine. Any guess as to what happened next? If you guessed same problem, you got it! WTF????!!!!!

Is there anyway possible that even though I disconnected the TORS under the hood, that the original TORS wire coming from the exciter/pulsar coils behind the flywheel is f ing things up?

 

[Awk08]

theres no tors wire in the stator circuts.
bad coil wire or plug boot? loose or bad ground conection ?
definately electrical now, we chased mr305s jetting at busco for 2 days, ended up being the plug wire/boot
is the flywheel on the woodruff key ???????
all connections tight and clean,
both grounds tight and clean, 1 at the regulator under the hood, and 1 at the coil (no paint under it either)

if that fails, i'll post in depth electrical tests

 

[mvyooper]

Maybe. My "fun winter project" is turning into a beyotch of a pain in the ass. Should not be this difficult as I am baffled at this point. I will go over the wiring, again. But the spark looks very strong at the plug. Any other ideas?
As careful as I was to ensure the piston was oriented the proper way I am beginning to have doubts- about the whole damn thing. Damn.

 

[super noober]

did you say you already disconnected the e-brake?

 

[Awk08]

you can check that piston by pulling the pipe and have a look in there, you shouldnt see the 2 intake ports on the piston
my guess is it's sumthin simple, we just havent pinpointed it yet

 

[mvyooper]

I have not messed with an e-brake. I'm not sure it even has one. This morning I'm going to go back over the wiring, front to back. Just to confirm, aside from disconnecting all of the TORS-related components/wiring, am I supposed to connect and/or ground any of those wires? I thought I recalled seeing on the site where someone had to ground out a TORS wire.
Perhaps I am hallucinating from the week's worth of idling 2-stroke fumes in my garage.

 

[super noober]

I have not messed with an e-brake. I'm not sure it even has one. This morning I'm going to go back over the wiring, front to back. Just to confirm, aside from disconnecting all of the TORS-related components/wiring, am I supposed to connect and/or ground any of those wires? I thought I recalled seeing on the site where someone had to ground out a TORS wire.
Perhaps I am hallucinating from the week's worth of idling 2-stroke fumes in my garage.

check out the e-brake switch on the bars, if its there take it off, and the tors issue you are remembering is teh instructions on how to do it for a 03+ blasty

 

[Zwiser]

What year was the parts blasty if it was 03+ and you swapped case from that it has a different stator

 

[mvyooper]

Parts bike is a 1991 and I'm using all of the electrical components from that bike- coil, cdi, stators, harness, etc. as most of it was nearly brand new. Just for kicks, today I tried plugging in the TORS module while the blaster was idling and it immediately killed the engine. What is weird is that all of the other wires associated with the TORS were disconnected at the time. I tried it again to ensure it wasn't a fluke and same thing every time, exactly as if I hit the kill switch.

Plug is nasty oily after only idling a short while (but that is probably made worse when I attempt to give it gas.

BTW, I pulled the pipe to ensure I installed the piston correctly and it's correct.