Newbie Stuggling

[newblasterman]

I just bought a 2002 200cc blaster last week. We rode it for a total of about 1 hour last Sunday. Then my son was riding and it just quit. I haven't been about to get it started since. Changed pug and checked for fire. Removed and cleaned the carb. Removed and cleaned air filter. Its definitely getting gas.

Any idea's?

 

[ruthless_one3k]

We are probably going to need some more information to get started.
The main things any engine needs to run are:
Air and fuel (in a proper ratio I.E. not to rich or lean)
Spark(At the right time)
and compression (and enough of it)

The first thing I would do, is do a proper compression check with a good tester. Then You might want to look at the dreaded T.O.R.S and make sure its working properly or remove it all together as all it does is cause problems. Then again it could just be flooded

 

[TopTechKid27]

like ruthless said you need three things fuel,compression and spark. i would check compression a 2 stroke needs about 110+ psi to run if its lower then about 100 chances are that the top end is worn.

 

[stephen12091985]

sounds like tors to me

 

[Blaner]

check your reeds too. if they snapped while riding the bike will just cut out and will not start after that!

 

[noid]

might sound stupid to some of us, but did you mix oil in the gas (if you have a block off) or have oil in the reservoir (if you dont have a block off)?

 

[newblasterman]

The TORS has been removed and the gas is mixed at 32:1.

I talked to a guy today that has owned two blasters and he said it sounds like the stator.

I will check the compression with a gauge and then check the reeds.

Thanks guys.

 

[370]

wait wait wait earlier you said it was definatley a fuel problem... you need to rule that out before you start tearing into sh*t.. always start simple.. first check for 3 things.. fuel, spark, and compression.. spark is easy to check for remove the plug and touch the ground strap of the plug to something thats grounded like.. the cylinder or frame. then have somebody kick it over.. if you see a BLUE spark.. your on the right track.. if you don't have spark check all your electrical connections.. if you've got spark your good there and move onto fuel.. if the plug was wet when you pulled it out.. you've got fuel.. if you didn't kick it over at all before you pulled the plug.. then install the plug and kick it over a few times and pull the plug out.. if it's wet... you've got fuel... then check compression.. you'll need a compression guage.. craftsman makes a nice compression guage kit.. costs about $60.. thats the same one i use.. the proper way to check the compression on a 2 stroke is to hold the throttle wide open and kick until the needle doesn't move anymore. might be 5 kicks.. might be 12.. when you get to the point that 2 or 3 kicks doesn't move the needle anymore.. thats your reading. as far as needing 110PSI to make a 2 stroke run.. thats not entirely true.... at sea level or close to it.. i'd say you need at least 90PSI for it to start.. not run well but start.. now at 5000ft the air is MUCH thinner so static compression readings are lower for sure.. if you've got compression, fuel, and spark. my next step would be check the flywheel key even if they are sheared you can still get a spark.. but not at the right time.. does it backfire or make a popping sound through the carb when you try kicking it? if so this may be your problem.. the ignition timing is off.. i know this seems like alot of sh*t to try before you actually take something apart but it really only takes about 10 mins and it can isolate your problem very easily instead of throwing parts at it til it's fixed..

 

[ajames942]

He never said it was a fuel problem buddy

 

[blasterboy91]

wait wait wait earlier you said it was definatley a fuel problem... you need to rule that out before you start tearing into sh*t.. always start simple.. first check for 3 things.. fuel, spark, and compression.. spark is easy to check for remove the plug and touch the ground strap of the plug to something thats grounded like.. the cylinder or frame. then have somebody kick it over.. if you see a BLUE spark.. your on the right track.. if you don't have spark check all your electrical connections.. if you've got spark your good there and move onto fuel.. if the plug was wet when you pulled it out.. you've got fuel.. if you didn't kick it over at all before you pulled the plug.. then install the plug and kick it over a few times and pull the plug out.. if it's wet... you've got fuel... then check compression.. you'll need a compression guage.. craftsman makes a nice compression guage kit.. costs about $60.. thats the same one i use.. the proper way to check the compression on a 2 stroke is to hold the throttle wide open and kick until the needle doesn't move anymore. might be 5 kicks.. might be 12.. when you get to the point that 2 or 3 kicks doesn't move the needle anymore.. thats your reading. as far as needing 110PSI to make a 2 stroke run.. thats not entirely true.... at sea level or close to it.. i'd say you need at least 90PSI for it to start.. not run well but start.. now at 5000ft the air is MUCH thinner so static compression readings are lower for sure.. if you've got compression, fuel, and spark. my next step would be check the flywheel key even if they are sheared you can still get a spark.. but not at the right time.. does it backfire or make a popping sound through the carb when you try kicking it? if so this may be your problem.. the ignition timing is off.. i know this seems like alot of sh*t to try before you actually take something apart but it really only takes about 10 mins and it can isolate your problem very easily instead of throwing parts at it til it's fixed..

he said it was getting gas bro...not a gas problem...

 

[370]

oh sh*t.. my bad... i was reading through pretty fast and must misread.. i see now what he said.. well check the other things i said in my post.. you already know you have fuel so skip that part..

 

[ruthless_one3k]

^^^370 made a good point in his first post. The woodruff key that holds the flywheel in place to control the timing has been known to shear off quite frequently. It wouldn't surprise me at all if this was the case. Normally this happens right after you have the flywheel off for something. It is usually the result of not properly torquing the flywheel nut. I say this because it happened to me when I got in a hurry and just used the old "Arm-strong" torque wrench Apparently my Arm wasn't Strong enough because it came loose and sheared the key.

 

[370]

blasters have been known to break those keys even when the nut was tightened at the factory.. happened to my brothers blaster years back.. and if he was thining it's a stator anyway you gotta take the flywheel off first.. might find out that little key is broke..