I bought my blaster the same way. You don't have to split the case or remove the motor. Just remove the jug and take the piston off the rod, fill the crank case with gas let it soak for a min then flip the blaster over so it can drain while it's upside down take an air hose and blow into the case while you rotate the crank. Then I flipped it back over and poured a little motor oil on the crank. Then finish rebuilding the top end. I got several small prices out this way and now it runs fine.
New to blasters, need help
- Thread starter kf7lcw
- Start date
If a piston breaks and schrapnel gets into the crankcase, it is a wise idea to split cases and properly clean out the debris.
A piston skirt break, can and possibly will leave little gritty bits of piston which may get into the bearings.
No amount of flushing from the top will remove all the grit if it gets into a bearing.
It only takes half a grain of sand to destroy a bearing.
If there is any schrapnel in the case using compressed air may effectively blow it into a bearing.
Play it safe and split the cases.
A piston skirt break, can and possibly will leave little gritty bits of piston which may get into the bearings.
No amount of flushing from the top will remove all the grit if it gets into a bearing.
It only takes half a grain of sand to destroy a bearing.
If there is any schrapnel in the case using compressed air may effectively blow it into a bearing.
Play it safe and split the cases.
Getting cases split today (despite my relentless efforts, I cannot get the flywheel off without the proper tool). 01sicivicdude is helping me out with a replacement case. Hoping to get the ball rolling on reassembly soon! 
While the cases are apart, what should I do to clean the bearings? I don't want to risk running some piston skirt through the bearings after I go through all of this trouble.
While the cases are apart, what should I do to clean the bearings? I don't want to risk running some piston skirt through the bearings after I go through all of this trouble.
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It's recommended that, any time a piston explodes, you replace the bearings with new units.
I'm not going to recommend anything else because it would be irresponsible for me to do so... BUT you can use a strong detergent and a steady stream of fresh clean water while turning the bearing to flush any particles out. A few cycles of this should clean out any foreign material. You then need to dry (with compressed air) and relube the bearings immediately before any rust can form.
I'm not going to recommend anything else because it would be irresponsible for me to do so... BUT you can use a strong detergent and a steady stream of fresh clean water while turning the bearing to flush any particles out. A few cycles of this should clean out any foreign material. You then need to dry (with compressed air) and relube the bearings immediately before any rust can form.
/\ /\ /\ /\ Wot he said, it is a must to replace the bearings, they don't cost a fortune.
In no way am I promoting that you re use a bearing that has suffered trauma, but sometimes it is unavoidable.
If ever a bearing is to be reused, all grease and lubricating product has to be removed, thats where the debris lies.
My method is to submerge the bearing in kerosine and rotate the bearing gently in both directions, forcing the kero through the bearing with a soft paint brush, working from one side only.
When most of the lubricant is removed, blow out the bearing with compressed air, then using fresh, clean kero repeat the process until the bearing is clean, and revolves gently without any restriction.
Never use air to spin the bearing, use your fingers.
Re lubricate, and check again for any restriction.
Wheel and carrier bearings can be cleaned this way by carefully removing the seals.
In no way am I promoting that you re use a bearing that has suffered trauma, but sometimes it is unavoidable.
If ever a bearing is to be reused, all grease and lubricating product has to be removed, thats where the debris lies.
My method is to submerge the bearing in kerosine and rotate the bearing gently in both directions, forcing the kero through the bearing with a soft paint brush, working from one side only.
When most of the lubricant is removed, blow out the bearing with compressed air, then using fresh, clean kero repeat the process until the bearing is clean, and revolves gently without any restriction.
Never use air to spin the bearing, use your fingers.
Re lubricate, and check again for any restriction.
Wheel and carrier bearings can be cleaned this way by carefully removing the seals.
Put the nut back on a hit with a hammer but not hard. Then take the nut off find somthing a bit smaller than the bolt and tap threw so the bolt should move if its spinning. Then grab the bolt and pull and turn it and should come out
Oh an just a friend FYI about the broken piston skirt. I rinsed my crank out 3x with WD-40 and 2x with oil, used compressed air, and my shop vac with a piece of 1/4 hose electrical taped to the end. The crank was completely clean as far as I could see and it turned through smooth.
When we split the cases, I pulled out at least 10 BB sized pieces of piston skirt, with no cleaner at all.
If you have junk in the crankcase, split them and clean it. Anything else is asking for disaster. Just my two cents based on experience.
When we split the cases, I pulled out at least 10 BB sized pieces of piston skirt, with no cleaner at all.
If you have junk in the crankcase, split them and clean it. Anything else is asking for disaster. Just my two cents based on experience.
Just checking in, still here!
I am saving my nickels and dimes. Current plan is new cases from 01sicivicdude, new crank bearings, and all new seals.
In the mean time I have been painting the parts of the engine (other than the cases lol), I will post some pictures soon.
I am saving my nickels and dimes. Current plan is new cases from 01sicivicdude, new crank bearings, and all new seals.
In the mean time I have been painting the parts of the engine (other than the cases lol), I will post some pictures soon.
Still need to get pictures but project is coming along nicely. Got new cases and bearings (thanks 01sicivicdude!), and new seals. Bottom end is complete less the side cases, which I am just waiting on gaskets, which should be in today! I need to take it down to the local bike shop cause I goofed last night (working on things too late when I am too tired), and boogered up the end two threads on the stator side of the crank, can't get the nut to bite. Luckily I'm good friends with the bike shop owner and he said he'd chase them for free 
Well, ended up having to move and just now getting back on my feet and setup. Needless to say the blaster got put on the back burner. The engine still sets exactly as shown. Hopefully in the next few weeks I will be able to get the jug bored and the new piston put in, and we will be golden
No Sir, rustoleum engine enamel gloss black. I've had good experiences with the product in vehicle applications, I guess we'll see in an ATV lol. Sure turned out nice though
Dropped the jug off today. Was out of spec (pry the reason for the original meltdown), so I am getting it taken .020 over and a new piston. Should be done tomorrow
