I just got a 02 blaster a few weeks ago and I'm looking for some basic tips and tricks for general matinence and how to ensure all is running right. It's bone stock as far as I know the only thing changed is the hydrolic rear brake kit we installed. I'd also like to know some cheap tricks that will help the overall performance of the bike. Only work I've done was the brakes and a carb rebuild. It had a overflow issue that was easily solved by replacing the needle and seat. It starts the first kick everytime but has a ping at idle think it has a misfire so I ordered a new ignition coil and plug wire the old ones are a litte warn. Hope someone has some good advice and thank you in advance.
New to blasters need a little kick start
- Thread starter Newtoblastys
- Start date
Use good premix oil, keep air filter clean, be sure jetting is correct. Cheap performance would be to mod the timing plate for 3* more timing. Welcome to the site!
Get in contact with SLICKERTHANYOU hes a member on here... he sells leakdown testers there blaster spacific an work really well i just bought one as a matter of fact...
Do a leakdown test to make sure there is no air leaks in your motor if its leaking its a sure fired way to burn your motor up... pleanty of how tos on leakdown teesting
Other then that you could do a compression test
Also recommend draining your tank from the previouse owner (if oil ijection is deleted) an mixing you a fresh tank of 2stroke mix use high grade 2 stroke motor cycle oil theres plenty of threads on here that debate witch oil to use amsoil, klotz an maxxim are all really liked on here it seems.
Change the transmission oil it takes 650ml of oil use good oil in there as well i use bel ray gearsaver i think it works well that just my opion there are plenty of good oils out there
MAybe a fresh plug
Also make sure that air filter is clean it has to be clean an well oiled. there threads to show how to clean that to u basically wash it out with filter cleaner let it dry completely an reoil with the filter oil.
a very cheap an easy to do mod is to take your air box lid of or drill holes in it... however with taken more air in you will have to rejet if ur bone stock u will have to increase from a 230 to a 240 probly maybe a 250 at least thats what one of the members did for mine to make it right...
An do a plug chop when u rejet to make sure its correct there is also may threads on that use the search tool in the top...
alot of people recommend deleteing the TORS to theres threads on it i dont know much about this one im working on mine now.
Other then that you get what u pay for the better mods cost money for parts an the work to be done you can do a million things to a blaster as ive learned oveer the last couple months of owning it
But welcome to the fourm good luck i know im missing stuff look around an see what everyone says theres alot of good information on here
Do a leakdown test to make sure there is no air leaks in your motor if its leaking its a sure fired way to burn your motor up... pleanty of how tos on leakdown teesting
Other then that you could do a compression test
Also recommend draining your tank from the previouse owner (if oil ijection is deleted) an mixing you a fresh tank of 2stroke mix use high grade 2 stroke motor cycle oil theres plenty of threads on here that debate witch oil to use amsoil, klotz an maxxim are all really liked on here it seems.
Change the transmission oil it takes 650ml of oil use good oil in there as well i use bel ray gearsaver i think it works well that just my opion there are plenty of good oils out there
MAybe a fresh plug
Also make sure that air filter is clean it has to be clean an well oiled. there threads to show how to clean that to u basically wash it out with filter cleaner let it dry completely an reoil with the filter oil.
a very cheap an easy to do mod is to take your air box lid of or drill holes in it... however with taken more air in you will have to rejet if ur bone stock u will have to increase from a 230 to a 240 probly maybe a 250 at least thats what one of the members did for mine to make it right...
An do a plug chop when u rejet to make sure its correct there is also may threads on that use the search tool in the top...
alot of people recommend deleteing the TORS to theres threads on it i dont know much about this one im working on mine now.
Other then that you get what u pay for the better mods cost money for parts an the work to be done you can do a million things to a blaster as ive learned oveer the last couple months of owning it
But welcome to the fourm good luck i know im missing stuff look around an see what everyone says theres alot of good information on here
Ok thank you I know the basic stuff like the filters and premix keep the oil changed and oil the chain. I was just wanting to make sure there wasn't anything major any blaster newbie should know. Any ideas for a basic tune up? I'm going to do a plug chop to be sure but I think it's running rich. about to change tires hopefully to somethig like Itp holeshots or something similar, so if anyone knows where to get tires cheap please let me know it would be greatly apreciated. That you for the advice 
If you are going to get parts for your blaster, I would strongly recommend ordering them yourself, if you go to a yamaha shop, they are going to be more, also, fix it yourself, better do it for free than have to pay $60 an hour to have a mechanic do it....
THE MOST IMPORTANT THING IS THE LEAKDOWN TEST...
many people burn there engines up like that if u dont do anything do the leaktest!!!!
many people burn there engines up like that if u dont do anything do the leaktest!!!!
Yeah ik I hate the local shop there notorious for there horrible rates. I do all my own work and order all my own parts. I like doing them myself it's interesting and I learn new things. The next upgrade I think I'm going to instal is pipes. Not sure what style or brand, then bigger jets new reeds and remove TORS
And I'll be sure to do a leak down test thanks a lot guys for the great advice and rapid response
well just dont run it intill u get them reads done becasue once you work on replacing them your gonna want to re leak test it it will test for leaks anywhere from your intake boot down... so basically everything but the carb....
an as for pipes thats my next mod well i want the head mod an ported thats alot of extra power.... im looking at a toomey pipe hear lot of good reviews an Ken ocnor racing recommendes them witha ll there ported motors.... but right bends seem to be unamously the better pick by everyone but any upgraded pipe will add to the motor
an as for pipes thats my next mod well i want the head mod an ported thats alot of extra power.... im looking at a toomey pipe hear lot of good reviews an Ken ocnor racing recommendes them witha ll there ported motors.... but right bends seem to be unamously the better pick by everyone but any upgraded pipe will add to the motor
I'd find out what the pinging is. Are you new to 2 strokes? I had owned 2 strokes forever but didn't know anything about them until I started reading here (I thought I knew enough). Blaster's seem to be both prone and unusually venerable to air leaks. For piece of mind, I'd do a leak down test. Like stated above, slickerthanyou sells them for a fair price. If you're all stock (IMO) it would be a good idea to make sure you're running stock jetting. I think it's 230 main, 32.5 pilot and needle in the middle position and the air screw is like 1.5 turns out (going off memory, if I'm wrong someone will correct me). I would drain the fuel and oil and refill with known good quality of each (I always run 100% gas, no ethanol).
As far a mods. A good pipe, Uni filter and air box lid removed makes a noticeable improvement (must rejet afterwards). That's all I've done to mine and it put me up to a 280 main. I'm still running TORS, so I don't know about removing it. Judging from others reports the head mod is a good improvement for the money at around $60. Lightening the flywheel makes them more peppy, again around $60. I've not done the +4 timing adjustment but it's free to do yourself and reversible, so it couldn't hurt to try. Better reeds may help somewhere in there. After that porting is the next value in performance improvements (about $150) then let more air in with a bigger carb. Many mods are trade offs, improve this but give up that. I personally when to the suspension after pipe, filter and removing the air box lid. I did the 400ex rear and Banshee front shocks. I'll do port work, head mod and lighten the flywheel when it needs rebuilt. Until then wider A arms, front disk, longer travel front shocks and extended swing arm are highest on my list.
As far a mods. A good pipe, Uni filter and air box lid removed makes a noticeable improvement (must rejet afterwards). That's all I've done to mine and it put me up to a 280 main. I'm still running TORS, so I don't know about removing it. Judging from others reports the head mod is a good improvement for the money at around $60. Lightening the flywheel makes them more peppy, again around $60. I've not done the +4 timing adjustment but it's free to do yourself and reversible, so it couldn't hurt to try. Better reeds may help somewhere in there. After that porting is the next value in performance improvements (about $150) then let more air in with a bigger carb. Many mods are trade offs, improve this but give up that. I personally when to the suspension after pipe, filter and removing the air box lid. I did the 400ex rear and Banshee front shocks. I'll do port work, head mod and lighten the flywheel when it needs rebuilt. Until then wider A arms, front disk, longer travel front shocks and extended swing arm are highest on my list.
Well it'll be a little while till I can afford the reeds so Imma leak down test and run it till I can get them
the axle will work fine as a bolt on provided you have the right hub for it, but the swingarm isn't going to work.
It's a simple conversion just a little conversion work one of my dads buddys has done it and he said he would help me do mine. He said it made his more stable. And I think the pinging is a misfire cuz the abused coil and plug wire it only does it at idle one it winds up all is good.
Pipe and jets go hand in hand, if you fit a pipe you have to re-jet at the same time.
Get pics of the Banshee swinger conversion, it doesn't look that easy to me. The Banshee axle is the same as 03+ Blaster but it's a different carrier on the 02 and earlier Blasters. I don't know how it will work out on the disk conversion you have. Does your conversion use a floating disk or floating caliper?
The conversion is a floating disk and next time I go over there I'll take pics to post he did a lot of work and fabrication to make it work but he said it was worth it.
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