new to atvs. want to know about good mods

dirtrider604

Member
Nov 14, 2011
79
1
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Fredericksburg, VA
i just got an 01 blaster in a trade. it has a paul turner complete exhaust system, dg front bumper, nerf bars, pro taper handlebars, and uni air filter. i just want some ideas of some good, but cheap, mods to add on. i am really looking for a good light because it didnt come with one. any help would be great
 
Do you know if the carb has been jetted? If it wasn't jetted or done correctly you may be loosing power. A good set of tires (holeshots) is a good start. I just got a Blaster also and I'm upgrading the exhaust, intake, tires, bumper, shocks, hood, and a paint job.
 
For mods like engine mods or look good mods?
If its engine mods what style riding do you do? Gearing is cheap and a good way to put the power you already have to use.
Flip the front rims will add stability by making it 3 inches wider by the offset of the rims.
a timing adv for a lil more power

I love my wal mart head lights, there is a guy on here that did a good do it you self how to with pics, some on here say they dont like me but ive been using mine for a few years now and pressure wash them or soak them in mud and water and never a complaint and would do it again if i had the choice.

Or i got a stock head light and bracket that will bolt on and be just as good just wont be as stylish for WAY cheaper message me if you interested.
 
Sounds like you got a good base to work with and you have heaps of options. A few are......

$10 ripping the airbox lid off and rejetting
>$100 banshee axle & hub for a little extra width in the rear (do carrier zirk install while you're at it)
$40remove TORS and replace carb top with simple replacement top and new cable while you're at it.
$? new reeds will give you better throttle response
$30 parking brake delete with ebay shorty cable replacement (or go hydros rear & front.....not a cheap mod)
>$75 400ex rear shock w/ o'connor bushings
$15 rear yfz, banshee or raptor hubs for a greater choice of rear rims
I just did the walmart light mod and like it for $30.....looks good too when mounted
lastly, it's not a cheap mod when it come to front shocks. You get what you pay for so buy once....cry once.....but be happy everafter.

Good luck dude!
 
thanks for the help. i'll definately look into the walmart headlights. and yes the bike has been jetted. i took the carb off and checked. i was looking into getting vforce3 reeds. is it worth it? and ive been looking into getting a rear shock because the stock is very soft and starting to rust. im trying to spend my money evenly woth performance parts and looks. the next thing i want to do for looks is put in a better rear grab bar and new blue fenders. its also currently in the shop because when i got it, it barely had enough compression to stay running. so im gettin it bored out a little with a new top end... also, a lot of the bolts holding things together are stripped and rusted (not rattling though), is there a easy way to get a pack of them somewhere to replace?
 
and my style of riding is in trails, ive never had any intentions of hittin a track or jumping very high. but i still like to go fast. i will need some good, but cheap, rear tires very soon too.
 
sounds like your on the right track already

bolts.....i myself go to the local ace hardware for stainless replacements, or surplus store with each bolt i need replaced,
but you will find bolt kits on ebay, some just body bolts, some complete sets
Yamaha Blaster Bolt Kit 120 pieces YFS200 ATV QUAD plastic body frame Specbolt | eBay

doubt theres $40 worth of bolts in there, but looks to be packaged with most of what ya need
 
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I suggest when replacing bolts go with stainless steel socket cap screws . Those are great because they use an Allen head tool to remove and have almost no possibility of being stripped out like a standard hex cap . Avoid stainless steel on any part of the cylinder or the exhaust , when stainless gets hot it can gall up and be almost impossible to remove a fastener . So no stainless head nuts , no exhaust head pipe flange stainless nuts .
 
what do you guys recommend for re-jetting? as in jet size/needles, and which brand to get? i hope to upgrade to vforce 3 reeds in the future. im just trying to decide if its worth it... or do you even have to re-jet with vf3?
 
You usually don't need to re-jet when just changing reeds, but do a plug chop just to be sure after installing the VF3's.

I run VF3 reeds on my Blaster, as do most people on here, and they ARE, IMO, worth the money. You'll see a difference in throttle response (snappier) and they last well.

With your mods listed, I'd be around a 280 - 290 main jet (assuming you've taken the airbox lid OFF), with the stock needle in the center clip position. Skip the jet kits and off-brand jets and get yourself some genuine Mikuni carburetor jets. That's the only way to go.
 
ok.. now is there much difference in performance between the vf3s and boyesen reeds? there is around a $90 price difference so im just tryin to decide if its worth the extra $. and is it good to drive it with the air box lid off?
 
You usually don't need to re-jet when just changing reeds, but do a plug chop just to be sure after installing the VF3's.

I run VF3 reeds on my Blaster, as do most people on here, and they ARE, IMO, worth the money. You'll see a difference in throttle response (snappier) and they last well.

With your mods listed, I'd be around a 280 - 290 main jet (assuming you've taken the airbox lid OFF), with the stock needle in the center clip position. Skip the jet kits and off-brand jets and get yourself some genuine Mikuni carburetor jets. That's the only way to go.
Mikuni jets are the only way to go? What about Vitos jet kit or Dynojet? They come with a assortment of quality jets, pilots, and needle. Isn't these better or am I missing something?
 
ok.. now is there much difference in performance between the vf3s and boyesen reeds? there is around a $90 price difference so im just tryin to decide if its worth the extra $. and is it good to drive it with the air box lid off?

I know I saw a large performance increase when I installed Boyesen Power Reeds in my old blaster. I have never had VF3 reeds but Im sure they are better because everyone on here has them.

Also about the air box lid. I have been running my raptor 660 without a lid for some time now and never had any problems. Opening up the lid allows for more air flow and gives you a large power increase. Really dont have to worry about water or anything else getting in the air box. The lid isn't sealed down anyway so water can still get it if you were in deep enough water. IMO theres no need for the lid unless you are a swamp rat.
 
Mikuni jets are the only way to go? What about Vitos jet kit or Dynojet? They come with a assortment of quality jets, pilots, and needle. Isn't these better or am I missing something?

jet kits are just a way for companies to rip ya off, a jet can be had for 3 bucks, so to buy a "kit" for $50 is silly, also vitos needles are junk so no point in getting one. the best bang for your buck in these motors is porting