New to 2 strokes.

Oneshot

Oneshot

Member
Mar 1, 2016
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Hello fellow Blaster owners.As the topic says I am new to running 2 strokes.I did not realize there was so much difference between 2 and 4 stroke engines.So here it goes.I bought a 06 Blaster with a Toomey B1 pipe. The guy said the engine was bored over and I will find out soon enough.Doing some ripping and tearing on it this weekend.Already had the injection block off kit purchased before I found your nice helpful forum.So I am gonna go ahead and put that on and while I am at it change trans fluid and inspect it. The springs where missing off the exhaust when I got it so went to the local hardware store and got some very strong springs and put on it.The only reason I seen they where missing is I saw a little smoke coming from the flange.Carb leaks from the drain tube near the floats if I do not keep turning the fuel off so I suspect the needle needs cleaned.But how do I tell if it is factory jets or not?And do you think I will need a new exhaust gasket? Also if you have easy access to some of the links for float height, Jet adjustment,Leak down test. Could you post here?I been searching alot and bookmarked about 10 different pages from the forum. So if you cannot post the links here no prob.Just be alot easier to go to 1 page to find and look at all the procedures instead of looking through bookmarks and trying to find the one I am looking for. All help and suggestions are very much appreciated.
 
Welcome to the forum

I'll answer some of your questions for you.

The carb leaking out the overflow tube is either a bad float height, or some gunk in the needle seat. The float height needs to be set 20-21.5mm.

While you have the carb apart, clean and inspect it. The pilot jet should be a 32.5, the main jet from the factory would be a 230.

I'm not sure what jet Toomey recommend s for a main, I think it's 300??? But other engine mods, temperatures, and your elevation play a role in sizing the main jet. The only way to confirm you jetting is on is a plug chop. Look up how to do that if your not sure. member @Blaaster has a good set of instructions on how to do it, I'm sure he'll send you them if you ask.

The exhaust gasket you asked about, I'll stay quiet, I have no experience with Toomey pipes. It's a good thing you caught that though, an exhaust leak can be a path to destruction!

Read up on air leaks and how to do a leak down test. Buy or build a tester. It is money well spent..
 
Thanks guys.I got all the parts I need to do leakdown test.Plans for weekend Brakes,Leakdown test, check and fix floats,and compression tests. Block of injection. Then if possible a plug chop. but I got a problem with the plug chop,I do not have enough room to get up to 5th gear and hold for 20 secs.but Blaaster sent me info saying 4th gear would give me a good calculation on what is needed.As I said I am not used to all of this 2 stroke stuff. Always ran 4 stroke. Is there anything else you guys would suggest checking while i am at it?I honestly would not have done all this research if i would not have caught that exhaust issue and probably woulda been replacing engine within a week or so.So you can not adjust the jet that is in the carb to make run richer/leaner whatever way you need to go? The whole jet needs to be replaced?
 
Yes... the whole main jet needs replaced. it is not adjustable. Its basically a tiny piece of brass with 6 flats around the base for a wrench or socket to fit on and a hole in the middle of it for fuel to run through.
Do not over torque it. Its just a jet.
 
When you do do the oil block off make sure you premix 32:1 or 40:1, I run mine at 40:1. Also make sure you make your jet sizes bigger for the oil going through the carb, if not you'll have a lean condition which leads eventually to destruction of the engine plus on top of that if you leave that exhaust leak going it will really ruin your motor. Just put some copper rtv on your exhaust gasket/flange.
 
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So if I am understanding this correctly .I should do the leak down test ,clean the carburetor and then do the plug chop before I eliminate oil injection.To get an idea of where to start? And not ubderstanding if factory ratio is about 20:1, why the change to 32:1 when I premix? Is this ratio gonna be sufficient?
 
Last edited:
There is lots of debate on oil ratios. However, 32:1 is the most popular by far and is what most people run.
Also when you look up any information on the web about ratios, you'll notice that almost all of it is based on a
32:1 ratio.

Question...
What is your reason for removing the oil injection?
I did this years ago to see if there was an advantage over oil injection and there wasn't any other than the ability to use the same pre-mix gas / same fuel can that your other toys use. Makes sense.
I tried about 8 different oils, and they all worked great, but no performance advantage.
I did however go back to running oil injection. I run it with porting, high compression head re-chambering, performance pipe, ignition advance, big reeds etc. Works awesome, and has for years.

Just saying.
 
joeak47 said:
There is lots of debate on oil ratios. However, 32:1 is the most popular by far and is what most people run.
Also when you look up any information on the web about ratios, you'll notice that almost all of it is based on a
32:1 ratio.

Question...
What is your reason for removing the oil injection?
I did this years ago to see if there was an advantage over oil injection and there wasn't any other than the ability to use the same pre-mix gas / same fuel can that your other toys use. Makes sense.
I tried about 8 different oils, and they all worked great, but no performance advantage.
I did however go back to running oil injection. I run it with porting, high compression head re-chambering, performance pipe, ignition advance, big reeds etc. Works awesome, and has for years.

Just saying.
Click to expand...
Only reason was I got the kit before I found this site.Honestly I am now thinking I will keep it on. I want to adjust the clutch anyway so I will pull the pump off and make sure it is working. If it is I will keep it on. As my son will be mainly riding it. Keeping it on will make it easier for him.
 
Oneshot said:
Only reason was I got the kit before I found this site.Honestly I am now thinking I will keep it on. I want to adjust the clutch anyway so I will pull the pump off and make sure it is working. If it is I will keep it on. As my son will be mainly riding it. Keeping it on will make it easier for him.
Click to expand...

You can easily check if the pump is working simply by removing the spark plug from the cylinder head, so that you can kick over the engine easier.
Then remove the oil injection line from the carburetor, and placing it on a clean
(preferably white) rag. Then proceede to watch the end of the oil injection line for signs of life.
There will be a minor, and I mean minor pulse of oil coming from the open end of the line.

It doesn't spray like a fuel injector, or anything like that.
Just a very tiny, soft pulse of oil. "Pulse...pulse...pulse".
The pulsing will be hard to see, because your only spinning it over at kick start speed.
This is assuming that the system doesn't need to be bled because it was disassembled, or ran dry.

Its a simple robust system that always work, just keep oil in the tank. That oil tank will last 3 +/- tanks of fuel depending on riding style.

Later if you want to pre-mix, then you can do that too!
Don't fall for all the internet bullsh&t about the plastic drive gear failing. It never does.

Here's a fun read about the blaster oil injection \/ \/ \/
http://blasterville.freeservers.com/oil.html
 
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joeak47 said:
You can easily check if the pump is working simply by removing the spark plug from the cylinder head, so that you can kick over the engine easier.
Then remove the oil injection line from the carburetor, and placing it on a clean
(preferably white) rag. Then proceede to watch the end of the oil injection line for signs of life.
There will be a minor, and I mean minor pulse of oil coming from the open end of the line.

It doesn't spray like a fuel injector, or anything like that.
Just a very tiny, soft pulse of oil. "Pulse...pulse...pulse".
The pulsing will be hard to see, because your only spinning it over at kick start speed.
This is assuming that the system doesn't need to be bled because it was disassembled, or ran dry.

Its a simple robust system that always work, just keep oil in the tank. That oil tank will last 3 +/- tanks of fuel depending on riding style.

Later if you want to pre-mix, then you can do that too!
Don't fall for all the internet bullsh&t about the plastic drive gear failing. It never does.

Here's a fun read about the blaster oil injection \/ \/ \/
http://blasterville.freeservers.com/oil.html
Click to expand...
Nice read, But that is why I asked why would I want ro do a 32:1 ratio if factory is about 20:1. That article said piston showed signs of scuffing at 27:1 ratio. Still undecided. What happens with the oil anyhow? Just burnt or does it leak down to the crank?There is so many reasons to take it off and at same time many reasons to keep it on.It is my sons and he is still at the learning stage. Thinking what happens if he rolls it or flips it and a air bubble gets in the line?
 
An air bubble doesn't get in the line as easily as you may think. Been upside down many times, and still no issue.
The whole system can be bled with a single screw. I only had to do this when the system was disassembled.
I believe that a forum member on here named Awk had a stock blaster that he ran for years on oil injection that he rolled and crashed a lot, and still had no issues. Perhaps he can chime in.

The oil is consumed by the engine's combustion process. The oil is whipped into a mist by the crank while spinning. The oil also lubes the crank shaft main bearings and wrist pin bearing. Oil to the main bearings also comes in from the top via two holes and a bowl shaped divit that is cast into the case. Very little oil is required to lubricate a 2 stroke engine.

Either choice you make will be fine.
 
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I appreciate the help guys. Alot more to the 2 stroke. Then I originally thought. Lol thought well you just add oil to the fuel. Was I ever wrong. I mean I could but would not last long. I rather take the time and take care of things the right way. Thanks again guys.
 
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Oneshot said:
I appreciate the help guys. Alot more to the 2 stroke. Then I originally thought. Lol thought well you just add oil to the fuel. Was I ever wrong. I mean I could but would not last long. I rather take the time and take care of things the right way. Thanks again guys.
Click to expand...

My kind of guy, wanting to do things right!!

That's really cool that you are doing this for your son. Is he helping you with the blaster?
 
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