Hey guys, I just got an old '94 blaster that I bought to use around the farm. Got it cheap and figure it will need some work. It seems to run ok but the clutch never fully disengages. It will stall when you stop in first gear even with the clutch pulled in. And it slips under full throttle. Does this sound like an adjustment problem or is it time for a new clutch? Clutches seem fairly cheap. Any tips on this would be appreciated. Also, the seller said he just had the automatic oil tank re-installed. I've heard both arguments on mixing your own fuel or letting the auto mix do it. One mechanic says the auto mixer is best!? Anyone have failures with theirs? Where can I get cheap tires for it online? Thanks in advance!
New Guy From North Florida
- Thread starter badbart
- Start date
Welcome to the forum. I would start with adjusting the clutch first. There's mixed reviews on the auto oil injection. I don't have a link for the manual but I know Awk will.
Stick with the oil injection.
Free manual here.
http://www.blasterforum.com/general-support-17/downloadable-yamaha-blaster-manual-17325/
03+ supplement:
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/03-06-blaster-repair-manual-supplement-1916/
Free manual here.
http://www.blasterforum.com/general-support-17/downloadable-yamaha-blaster-manual-17325/
03+ supplement:
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/03-06-blaster-repair-manual-supplement-1916/
First off welcome,, many great things and people in this forumif you have any questions about a blaster you find it here.. (there's even contests for free stuff from time to time) Also
I run my oil injection. For one reason is if it ain't broke don't fix it, but on the other hand if the oil injection did break or u pulled the line off from a branch on the farm you would be fixin allot more. One more reason for me still running my oil injection is i have so many 2 strokes with different mixes its kind of a pain in the arse to know what can is for what.. Weed wacker 2 of them run different mixes ,tiller, quads, chain saw, kitty cat(mini sled),scooter,another weird chain saw, mini bike,...all different mixes and if not a different mix i use different oil for them. I'm not running expensive oil in my weed wacker and I'm not running cheap oil in my quad or saw.. And with 3 boys adding gas to things all the time (thank god i have them labeled) one less worry works for me.. Just keep an eye on your oil lines and run good oil,its worth it..
I run my oil injection. For one reason is if it ain't broke don't fix it, but on the other hand if the oil injection did break or u pulled the line off from a branch on the farm you would be fixin allot more. One more reason for me still running my oil injection is i have so many 2 strokes with different mixes its kind of a pain in the arse to know what can is for what.. Weed wacker 2 of them run different mixes ,tiller, quads, chain saw, kitty cat(mini sled),scooter,another weird chain saw, mini bike,...all different mixes and if not a different mix i use different oil for them. I'm not running expensive oil in my weed wacker and I'm not running cheap oil in my quad or saw.. And with 3 boys adding gas to things all the time (thank god i have them labeled) one less worry works for me.. Just keep an eye on your oil lines and run good oil,its worth it..
Thanks Jus Me, I think I'll stick with the oil injection. What 2 stroke oil do you guys recommend? And what oil do you use in the gearbox too?
Blaner
Your Friendly South African Ambassador
Welcome, with regards to the clutch. Try adjusting it first, whip off the clutch cover on the side of the motor (right side) and check the adjustment on the small hex screw head and locking nut. Refer to the manual on how to do this properly. However, if it is slipping under load, it is probably worn. Remember to use Automatic Transmission fluid or Yamaha Transoil for the gearbox. DO NOT use engine oil with anti friction agents etc.
With regards to the oil injection, yes, I run premix but thats only because I want to decide how much oil to use. As for the argument that the system may fail, I have never heard of any one of these injection systems failing except for human error (running out of oil etc) It is less to worry about.
If your bike is stock, stay with the autolube, no need to change it.
With regards to the oil injection, yes, I run premix but thats only because I want to decide how much oil to use. As for the argument that the system may fail, I have never heard of any one of these injection systems failing except for human error (running out of oil etc) It is less to worry about.
If your bike is stock, stay with the autolube, no need to change it.
Blaner
Your Friendly South African Ambassador
For future reference RE: the autolube system, proper car and priming as per this post:
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/oil-pump-priming-41337/#post538572
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/oil-pump-priming-41337/#post538572
Blaner
Your Friendly South African Ambassador
Motor oil is designed to minimize friction, they do this by adding anti friction agents. Your clutch is a wet clutch and works on friction. Motor oil then limits the friction capacity of the clutch and so the clutch will not bite as hard as it should.
Stick with simple ATF oil in future
Blaner
Your Friendly South African Ambassador
No not really, but look for the simplest variety. The Yamaha Transoil is a good buy too. It has anti foaming agents as well as a higher shearing resistance than other oils. It is more expensive than ATF tho. Either will work well in a blaster.
Thank you all for your welcomes and your advice. It seems these Blasters were/are quite popular. Are OEM parts still readily available? I'm aware that the newer ones have a six speed transmission. Is this a big improvement over the five speed? And are they interchangable? I see where some have ported the heads and doubled the power. Reliability is my main concern at this point but I can feel the mod bug coming on. 
Blaner
Your Friendly South African Ambassador
All blaster from 89 to the last on ehad 6 gears. All are 99% the same, the older shape has mechanical drum brakes and mechanical rear disk while the newr >03 have hydrualic breaks. Other than that there a few small cable hooks etc different but they all the same.
Your bike will be as reliable as the service it receives from you. Look after it and dont ignore small things when you notice anything different. When you do, ask us, we will tell you what to do!
Even brand new bikes can be wrecked by poephol owners!
OEM parts readily available for them blasters. I (even is South Africa) can get every single nut and bolt from Yamaha agents within 2 days!
Your bike will be as reliable as the service it receives from you. Look after it and dont ignore small things when you notice anything different. When you do, ask us, we will tell you what to do!
Even brand new bikes can be wrecked by poephol owners!
OEM parts readily available for them blasters. I (even is South Africa) can get every single nut and bolt from Yamaha agents within 2 days!
Sorry for jacking but would shipping be cheaper from SA to Aussie than from the US.
