Naked Blaster head

So too much aluminum up there draws too much heat off the flame? Or the distance between the spark plug end and the beginning of the "step" for the squish band is too tall?

If it's too deep a dish, can't you just cut the squish area down into the head deeper. At some point, you'll need to remove some of the bottom head fin area to keep it from hitting the top cooling fin on the cylinder but it would alleviate the issue of combustion chamber depth.

If I cut the head as deep as I want to go, I'll be cutting the lower cooling fin off. I just want to plug the chamber and start from scratch without welding anything.
 
So it's either do away with the bottom cooling fin, do hours of welding, or cut it for a dome.

Gotcha.

Ever tried cutting the triple domes Bi-Motion recommends? The way they explain it, it creates vortices in the corners of the angles and reduces gaseous heat exchange. Makes a deeper dome pass less heat into the aluminum.
 
I'm going to mount the stock head on a mandrel and cut the chamber out. Next step is to bore out the original spark plug hole. The new insert will be held in place by the spark plug and the head. I'm more concerned with heat loss than heat transfer. Heat lost is power lost for this application. We're going to be insulating the head to keep the heat in. I feel a few new pistons in my future.
 
Cool stuff, how much do you feel that you'll be able to pick up with a project like this

Any aversion to just getting one of the water cooled head with the interchangeable domes? Seems it could save a lot of machine time. Then just run it dry since you're talking about insulation.

Just an idea to help save precious time.
 
I'm going to mount the stock head on a mandrel and cut the chamber out. Next step is to bore out the original spark plug hole. The new insert will be held in place by the spark plug and the head. I'm more concerned with heat loss than heat transfer. Heat lost is power lost for this application. We're going to be insulating the head to keep the heat in. I feel a few new pistons in my future.

While ya got it chucked up ... machine off all the cooling fins ... that should look pretty weird, keep it warm & psych out the competition ... LOL ... always interesting to watch what your'e doing, thanks for sharing.
 
I'm going to mount the stock head on a mandrel and cut the chamber out. Next step is to bore out the original spark plug hole. The new insert will be held in place by the spark plug and the head. I'm more concerned with heat loss than heat transfer. Heat lost is power lost for this application. We're going to be insulating the head to keep the heat in. I feel a few new pistons in my future.

The stock Blaster head is deep at 0.840". The DT200 head is only 0.580" deep.
The stock Blaster chamber is 1.400" diameter. The DT200 chamber is 1.800" diameter.

In spite of the depth, my son just had a head cut with a more open bowl 0.580" deep by 1.800" diameter.
This of course still has the remains of the conical Blaster chamber for 0.800" diameter and now 0.820" depth, but works good.

You would have to cut 1/4" off a stock head to get a good plug depth, I see what you are trying to do Ken.
Just a good flat surface to transfer heat. Swap easily made inserts to test different theories. Sounds good.
Incidentally, that looks like a cut or aftermarket head you sectioned, with the hemispherical bowl.
 
If you're trying to reduce thermal transfer, what's the harm in cutting the lower fin completely off the head?

If you're building a one off drag head for Dually, why NOT cut the bottom fin off and correct the deep combustion chamber?
 
The stock Blaster head is deep at 0.840". The DT200 head is only 0.580" deep.
The stock Blaster chamber is 1.400" diameter. The DT200 chamber is 1.800" diameter.

In spite of the depth, my son just had a head cut with a more open bowl 0.580" deep by 1.800" diameter.
This of course still has the remains of the conical Blaster chamber for 0.800" diameter and now 0.820" depth, but works good.

You would have to cut 1/4" off a stock head to get a good plug depth, I see what you are trying to do Ken.
Just a good flat surface to transfer heat. Swap easily made inserts to test different theories. Sounds good.
Incidentally, that looks like a cut or aftermarket head you sectioned, with the hemispherical bowl.

That's an old Kennedy head I got from Gibson. Good eye.