My 90 Blaster Rebuild ( First Ever!)

steel woal is good with glas and crome stuff only.. i see u guys are talking about pc alot hmm take your time on the paint job thats all i got to say u dont want it looking sh*ty:)
 
so what is the other option beyond sandblasting.. should i be getting a electric hand sander.. or a small grinder and do it that way.... what kinda grit sandpaper should i be using.. i might just do the whole frame if i can use a powertool like grinder to do it..

Cheers

hahaha just man up and get to sanding!! sucks ass but worth it in the end, my frame is smooth as glass. took over 20+hrs to sand prime and paint though!! hahaha good times :eek:
 
Here is a pic of what i have left in my rear plastic for an airbox.. so am i just missing a filter and lid???
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Here is the picture of what i have sitting in the garage as of this morning... two coats of primer... only 1 or 2 small runs... considering ive never painted anything in my life besides using my finger in kindergarten... thinking ill just leave it and continue the process with the top coat..... then couple coats of clear and i hope it looks good at the end..
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Cheers
 
what kind of paint are you using for the top coat? soem exotic colors dont appreciate being clear coated and spiderweb like crazy ruining it. make sure to test it in a small spot first. also you need the plastic cage that goes inside the filter to connect it to your airbox
 
Yea i ended up just using the wire wheel... i prolly have 5+ hours into stripping the paint..and about 2 hrs into the primer now.. so i should be close to 10 hours by the time the frame is painted and put back together i hope..

Today i gotta go find some cash to go to home depot so i can get some paint to get the top coat on..

Cheers
 
Ok well i was planning on using key lime rustoleum painter touch... it says its a high gloss.. so maybe it has the clear coat mixed into it???
 
you said you are going to use rustolium paint for the color. the sh*t needs to be 100% dry if you are going to use clear. i know on something i used for it, that sh*t was the only paint to really spiderweb and crack on me.
 
yea im using the rustoleum key lime they sell at home depot... so if i paint it... just make sure i let it sit overnight to dry before i add the clear.... i was hoping i could get two coats of the rustoleum on there today...one in am.. and give it a couple hours and one in pm... then clear coat tomorrow and frame is almost done..
 
i am not sure if the reason it cracked was from it not being all the way dry. but i know the paint was wet somewhat when i cleared it.
i would let it dry overnight for sure and only do one layer of clear on it.
 
sounds good.. how many coats of top coat should i be doing.. knowing im using a lighter color over a red rust primer?
 
yea man girlfriend who works at the hardware store brought me home red primer because she said it was the rust primer that should help keep the frame from rusting.. i dunno... worse case i guess the lime scraps off over time and i got a really groovy tie dye frame...
 
you could do a coat of white or silver over the primer, then put the key lime over it. that'll make it really pop
 
Hmmm... would i just use a flat white rustoleum? most the stuff i seen at home depot was high gloss stuff...
 
Yes, flat white won't require that you break the shine for the next coat. Oh! someone earlier said something about not using steel wool. This is exactly what you should use steel wool for, breaking the shine between coats. Use 0000 or finer. Would love to see the pics when you're able.
 
well im going outside right now to lay down the first coat of the Key Lime Rustoleum Painters Touch its called... I looked on the can and it doesnt say anything on the can about not using clear coat... it did on the tremclad paint i was gonna buy so i switched.... I asked the guy at home depot.. he knew nothing... so i guess it will be trial and error... Ill post a pic after first coat is done to give you an idea of what im working with...

Cheers