My 240 with stroker build

[nick20555]

I'm calling it the slide, you're saying it's coming with a 4.5 throttle valve.
Same part, different terms.
Wifesblaster and I both required #6 slides, and I could probably drop to the next leanest.

See what the 4.5 does for you, but I'm betting it'll need a # 6 throttle valve, and a CEL needle.

Ok. I've just never messed with a slide before, just the needle and jets, that's why I was confused. I got a good week or so before I can work on the blaster again (given that my motor is back by then) so I'll probably look at what it comes with and order the CEL needle and #6 slide if you think that will help. I'll probably hold off on the jets until I get it running and through the heat cycles for the break in if it comes with the 160 main and 48 pilot. I can always adjust for the smaller pilot temporarily by adjusting the air screw and the 160 main sound like its close to what I might need in it. Just have to wait and plug chop so I know which direction to go from there.

Any idea on what position the clip needs to be on the CEL needle or is that not an adjustable needle?

 

[Awk08]

Any idea on what position the clip needs to be on the CEL needle or is that not an adjustable needle?

start in the middle clip position,
for tuning the needle I like to raise the needle by dropping the clip until I feel it rich bog, then back down one clip position to lean it a little, and I feel it pull hard.
you can also do 1/2 throttle plug chops by limiting your thumb throttle with the stop screw.

 

[nick20555]

Ken called with an update on my motor. He was ready to put the finishing touches on and ship my motor when he found that the stroker crank didn't clear the front side of the case. When I assembled it I checked for clearance by putting a piston and cylinder on the half installed crankcase and it barely cleared so I thought I was fine. I guess the other half of the case didn't clear and I forgot to check clearance when I got the whole thing assembled, I just shipped it off with no piston in it since I needed a new one.

So Ken had to split my case and grind it. But luckily he had to do that. When he split my case he found that one of my crank seals was the wrong seal. So he saved me from damaging my new bottom end from a massive air leak.

In conclusion, my wallet is pissed because I messed up and needed Ken to fix it but my blaster is happy because he found a big mistake. My confidence was also hurt by my blunder and almost disaster that would have followed.

 

[mlrblaster]

Yes yours sounds very similar to my build I'm working on. I'm curious as to what sprocket setup you're running. I don't want to have so much power that I'm shifting as fast and you can release the clutch and only top out at 50. I would like to have some top end but I don't want the gears to be so long that I lose valuable power and can't keep it in the power band.

I'm running a 14 up front and stock in the rear

 

[dirtysquared]

Were all human and make mistakes, its just good that it was caught before it had a chance to do damage. You'll be up and running with peace of mind soon

 

[OConnor Racing]

Your engine is finished and will be shipping in the morning. Glad I could find some problems and save you from disaster. I'm also shipping your Pay-pal invoice in a couple of minutes. Sorry about that.

 

[nick20555]

Sorry guys, I got too excited and didn't take any pics of the process but took a pic of how it sits now.

Got my motor back from Ken. Porting looks beautiful. I only had time to clean the frame a bit and slap the reeds and manifold on the motor. I threw on all the electrical stuff I had to sort threw the wires a bit. Looks like previous owner already did the tors delete. Then I mounted the motor. Looks like previous owner messed up the beginning threads on the swing arm bolt. But looking good so far.

 

[nick20555]

The wiring does look messy but that is just temporary till I find if I'm still getting spark after the harness swap before I put the final touches on the harness. Hopefully in the next few days I'll find time to put my carb, air box, and pipe on so I can do some heat cycles.

I didn't tell my dad the surprises I have in the motor so he still thinks his lightly built blaster will beat me. Boy will he be in for a surprise. He keeps talking trash but I'll show him soon.

 

[nick20555]

Ok, I got a little bit more time to work on the blaster today and ran into a few problems.

First off, I have almost zero bolts to hold any plastics and body parts on so I will have to buy a bolt kit.

Secondly, after installing my carb to the engine and air box to the carb, the mounts for the air box are a couple inches off so the air box doesn't mount. I remember one member on here saying that he fabbed up something to mount to the grab bar mounts. Are there any other ideas for my air box mounting? Also my vforce 4 reeds came with 2 gaskets so do you put one between the cylinder and reed cage and then one between reed cage and intake manifold?

I did manage to get some wiring done. Hopefully you guys can tell me if I did it right. There was no throttle switch on the throttle and I have an aftermarket carb so no wires there. The wiring harness still had both of the plugs for them attached. I looked at a write up on here that said you are suppose to cut those connectors and splice the yellow and black wires on them for tors delete so I cut them and soldered them together. Is that correct? Also the wires that go to the oil tank and oil light are simply unplugged. Is that correct?

Last problem for now, my Vito's fat bastard exhaust is bent pretty good from mid pipe back. luckily vito's still sells the mid pipe but I will probably disassemble the silencer and send it to a local shop to see if they can pop out the dent in the silencer where the frame mount is (looks like someone went to far back on a wheelie and bent it up slightly).

 

[Herpderplol]

heres to your airbox problem. on my new one though i have a bolt on each side of the box going through a frame gusset
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/some-new-stuff.57985/page-3#post-719805

 

[tbrooks]

You can put some water in that pipe and throw it in the freezer, might work for ya

 

[nick20555]

heres to your airbox problem. on my new one though i have a bolt on each side of the box going through a frame gusset
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/some-new-stuff.57985/page-3#post-719805

Thanks for the link. I'll try and see if I can get something worked out on it

You can put some water in that pipe and throw it in the freezer, might work for ya

I don't really want to risk it busting since they don't make the pipes anymore. My local shop should be able to get the dents out of the silencer and I can repack it while its apart and I ordered a new mid pipe since its only $45.

 

[nick20555]

Could someone either look at my picture above or take a picture of their 03+ blaster rear brake switch and tell me where I'm suppose to mount mine? I was looking at the OEM part diagrams but they don't actually show were the rear brake switch mounts. I was trying to finish up some of the wiring last time I was working on my blaster but skipped that brake switch since I didn't know where it mounts.

 

[Blaaster]

Its number 3.

 

[nick20555]

Its number 3.

What is that tab that it mounts to connected to? what does it hook to at the bottom?

 

[Blaaster]

Can't help for a while, too dark in the shed where my bike is.

But there should be a long spring which goes to the brake pedal.

 

[Awk08]

What is that tab that it mounts to connected to? what does it hook to at the bottom?

the 03+ blasters have a tab welded to the frame for the brake switch,
the switch connects with a long tailed spring to a tab that sticks inwards off the pedal

 

[nick20555]

Alright. I'll have to look again next time. I just had no idea where to look and what for. I know I have an 04 frame so unless someone cut it off (possibility if you knew the guy I bought it from) I should have it

 

[o4blastie]

 

[o4blastie]

Mines an 04 too