mixed gas

If the key is missing, i should just unplug the two wires from the switch and leave them apart correct?

Cause when i just went and looked someone had them connected, but i dont have the key so i should just unplug the wires, tape em, and try to start it?


Also, since i dont trust this ahole i got it from, if the kill switch doesnt work right when i go to shut it off, (dont know its condition) how else can i kill the engine?

Id try and put it in gear and stall it gently, but check the rear brake works before you do this.. Blaster wiring systems are a nightmare when you have everything on it.. (switches n all)

Try this.. does it still have the TORS connected? if the CDI box has i think 8 wires, then the two thin ones need to be in the air, and it will idle but i wont rev, the orange one goes to the high tension coil, the black goes to the black from the stator, and also needs to be grounded to the frame. all other colors just connect them up.. there should be a red and yellow wire, or in any case one that does not go to the CDI box, this is the 12 V supply for the lights. It needs to be connected to the regulator so you dont burn out your bulbs..

If you have the older version, with a small CDI box and a separate TORS box, then orange wire from CDI goes to HT coil, black goes to ground as well as the black wire from the Stator, and all other colors to suit..


TIP: if ur looking at the spark, and there is one spark when it first turns over, and no subsequent sparks, the TORS is kicking in.. you need to ground or unground the black/white wire. If you have the 8 wire CDI and it idles but wont rev, then you need to ground one of the thin wires from the CDI, ground the wrong one, it wont run at all, ground the right one, the TORS is forever happy and it will run..
 
Id try and put it in gear and stall it gently, but check the rear brake works before you do this.. Blaster wiring systems are a nightmare when you have everything on it.. (switches n all)

Try this.. does it still have the TORS connected? if the CDI box has i think 8 wires, then the two thin ones need to be in the air, and it will idle but i wont rev, the orange one goes to the high tension coil, the black goes to the black from the stator, and also needs to be grounded to the frame. all other colors just connect them up.. there should be a red and yellow wire, or in any case one that does not go to the CDI box, this is the 12 V supply for the lights. It needs to be connected to the regulator so you dont burn out your bulbs..

If you have the older version, with a small CDI box and a separate TORS box, then orange wire from CDI goes to HT coil, black goes to ground as well as the black wire from the Stator, and all other colors to suit..


TIP: if ur looking at the spark, and there is one spark when it first turns over, and no subsequent sparks, the TORS is kicking in.. you need to ground or unground the black/white wire. If you have the 8 wire CDI and it idles but wont rev, then you need to ground one of the thin wires from the CDI, ground the wrong one, it wont run at all, ground the right one, the TORS is forever happy and it will run..

^^Really good advice!^^ If you find that the bike has a consistent spark, though, check your reed cage. A reed that is even slightly damaged or poorly-seating will prevent the engine from firing off, because it is unable to suck in any fuel from the carburetor.

Also, have you tested the compression on this supposedly 'rebuilt' engine? It needs at least 125psi cold (measured after 6-10 kicks with the thottle held wide open) to run...
 
Little-J
I went through the hole system with the book and multimeter and it all tested good, Its sparking consistently so i would assume the wiring is ok? If the reeds dont fix my problem then i will redo the wiring, i think i have an extra harness out there somewhere that came with it.... Thanks again man i appreciate the great advice though! +REP!!!

Braap im gonna go check the reeds, thats the only thing i overlooked, i have a new set of vitos reeds here but i read bad things about them on here so i didnt install them, but never checked the reeds on the rebuilt motor when i put it in, but sh*t i might as well go change em anyways.... The carb is getting gas, and overflowing but the plug seems dry, i tried squiring some mixed gas down there but it wouldn't fire...

Im pretty sure the motor is good, it came from a reputable person on flegay and you could see up in the exhaust port where the piston was, it was a fresh one, he said its weisco forged top end, said they fired it after the rebuild for testing and that was it....

I have not tested the compression, i have to get a tester tomorrow and test it, but it feels good when i kick it, and it has consistent pressure throughout the stroke when it goes down..... +REP!!!
 
dry spark plug? After all that kicking, it should have been wet.. It seems like its not drawing in a fuel charge, or the reeds are not holding it in... either major air leak, completely clogged carb of stuck float (tappng the bowl sharply with a screw driver handle can dis lodge a stuck float.. Is there gas in the carb? try opening the bowl drain or tilting the quad over to see if gas comes out of the overflow)

After that, as was recommended above, check reeds.. take your air filter off and look down behind it, is the intake tube from the filter to the carb wet with gas and oil? Often when a reed goes it will spray the fuel back out the carb when the piston moves down and compresses the mixture in the crank case.

Also, does it smoke? another tors problem i had... It sparked consistently, and more often than it should have, so it burned the fuel mix, smoke came out, but it never started as the timing was never right.. There should be large discrete sparks, little blue ones you can barely see may indicate this problem..

Thanks for the reps, i dont do this for the reps, but its always nice to be acknowledged.
 
Ive checked, checked checked and re-checked everything on this whole damn bike....

The carb is getting gas but not the motor.... Plug is dry but has good consistent spark, (tried other plugs for sh*ts n giggles)....

Dont know what to do next, sprayed a little amount of starting fluid down the plug hole and on the plug and still no fire....




Anyone please give me another idea, im getting depressed!! :(
 
Well i got it started, it only starts with a turkey baster or two full of mixed gas poured in the plug hole....

If i braap it gently it will stay running for about 10 seconds, but if i let the idle drop at all it dies or if i put it in gear it dies.....

Noticed it smokes a bit (this is my first 2-smoke).... Not sure how to tell what color but it smokes a bit even after it dies, and i noticed some oil on the head pipe about 2-4 inches past the flange (and some on the top fin of the head also)............

It will not restart until i put more gas down the hole, its still not getting gas to the motor but it starts first kick every time i put gas threw there.... HELP PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE!!!! :D:D:D
 
Here is a vid (forgot it was in gear LOL)..... and a picture of the smoke coming out of the pipe after it died, this is the longest ive been able to keep it running.....

I have a 310 main, stock pilot, 3rd. clip no air box just pod filter/wrap....

I was going to adjust the jetting and do the break-in period but i cannot keep it running long enough to check it, but this smoke/oil on the underside of the gas tank, coil, reed cage, carb, head fins all that crap bothers me.... I think the oil is spraying out where the two pipes meet possibly??

I just want this thing to run, its really pissing me off!!



 

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I think you should drop down the main to like a 280. Leave the pilot and the needle. You look why rich. Get a new plug also after you change the jet.

Also try to get the exhaust lined up better. There should be a boot that goes around the pipe and silencer, where they meet.
 
Got any pictures of it? Could the too big main keep it from starting w/o putting gas in the plug hole?

Its just odd since the plug is dry every time i take it out unless i just got done poring gas in it...

Should there be gas that far back in the exhaust? Im new to 2smokes but it seems like it shouldnt??
 
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I found a couple of small but all the way through holes in the head pipe about 2 inches up (before first bend)..... Theoretically (since i hardly know anything about 2 strokes) could these holes be considered an "air leak" or be causing me to loose "back pressure" pushing the oil out the exhaust and stopping the motor from starting on its own or idle?

The carbs been cleaned like 3 times now and it wont push gas out to the motor it seems....

I was able to make one pass around the yard by pouring gas in the hole to start it but it would hardly go anywhere and the oil was just pouring out the exhaust, then i noticed the holes in the pipe near the flange..... the low end was just dead on it, and i could hardly get it to go anywhere....


I just want this to run right, im scared it might seize up since i have not been able to break in the new top end yet, and ive spent all this money, im scared to work on it and have it seize up or something, but how else can i get it going? Can the holes be my problem???????

P.S. I forgot to add i dropped the main down to 280 and no change in anything....
 
Well none of it really matters anymore....

i went to move it this morning and when i went to fold up the kicker i realized it wouldnt move down by hand, so i got on and it was seized up solid, now this motor never ran for more then a TOTAL of 40 seconds since ive owned it.... How can it be seized up when i never got it running, and what the hell do i do now?

Now i have to explain to the wife that the motor that i spent the last of our money on is dead before it even ran more then 40 seconds.... What went wrong and was the motor possibly bad when i got it??
 
well man i'm kinda beat as to why its not getting any fuel to the motor, but there is a little rubber coupler that goes between the 2 pipes to seal them up. also i found a hole in my pipe but it doesn't seem to affect anything. go ahead and pull the jug off of the head and take a look down in there and see if the cylinder is all scored up or not
 
Yikes ! Man your not suckin any air are ya? That sounded liked iit was mad rich .. So is the motor locked up now or what? Damn that suck man !
 
I dont think it was sucking any air but you never know..... Yes shes seized up, pulled the jug off, havent had time too look at it but the piston looked good, had some rub marks? Its def. a wiesco....

Thats about all i can do for now im broke and i only got to ride it a matter of 30 feet? WTF?
 
Geez, man, I feel for ya. First thing you need to get it unstuck, but if the piston top looks good and you only have light scoring marks on the walls, you will prob survive this.

Put some penetrating oil (wd-40, pb blaster, etc) in the gap between the cylinder and piston. Let it sit awhile, then try to break it loose by maybe putting it in gear and rocking back and forth.

But most importantly, STOP pouring gas in the cylinder! Gas and oil mix is a very poor lubricant (but a really good solvent) and eventually will remove the oil film on the cylinder wall. This is prob why you seized. This doesn't happen in a normally running engine because the gas gets vaporized and the oil drops out as droplets, lubing your bearings and cylinder walls.
 
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After you get it unseized, start looking at carb/airflow stuff again.

Do you have a decent filter? Can you see light through it when you put a light bulb behind it? This may sound stupid, but I had a filter that was such a POS once that although it looked good at first glance, would not flow enough air (and hence, gas) to run.

Have you actually sprayed carb cleaner through all the passages (jet to carb throat) to see if anything comes through? Pay special attention to the pilot jet and passages. They plug up easily.