Looking at 3 Blasters

GTP

New Member
Jan 4, 2010
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Greensburg, PA
I have 3 blasters I am looking at over the next few days. Any tips on what Blaster specific to look for. I know the minimum compression is 80psi so I will be looking for a healthy 100+ psi engine.

A few are bored .040 over. Other than the plug-how do I tell if its jetted properly for a pipe or over bore?

Any thing I need to remember on chassis or brakes?

TIA
George
 
pull the plug if the owner will let ya,it should be cardboard covered. check the subframe for bends, amount of tread on the tires....... any rust, and ride it!!!!!! if u like the way it rides thats a good thing....... btw .40 over is 2 more cc's..... that doesnt do much.... and thats half of the cylinders life right there too..........
 
just do a good once over on everything check for cracks bad seals/bearing.....bring a compression tester along and check that also.....ride it and make sure everything work good....
 
just do a good once over on everything check for cracks bad seals/bearing.....bring a compression tester along and check that also.....ride it and make sure everything work good....

Follow yb's advice^^ I, too, wouldn't buy any Blasty that hasn't had a good test ride first. Look it over well. How does it appear to have been maintained? If an engine looks rough on the outside, there's a good chance that it's like that on the inside as well. Take the airbox lid off and look at the filter. A dirty air filter is a worrisome sign. Especially if u take the filter off and see ANY dirt AT ALL sitting below it. Run, run!! Keep looking!

Just so you know, 100psi compression is actually rather low. Yup, they'll run on 100lb, but I daresay not too well. A 'healthy' Blaster engine will have 130-150psi when WARM. Take your compression reading with the throttle held wide open after the engine has been warmed-up. An honest seller won't mind you doing this test. If he/she balks at your testing compression, that's a good sign the seller isn't telling the whole truth... Keep looking. There are always other, better deals out there. Hope this info helps. I:I
 
Follow yb's advice^^ I, too, wouldn't buy any Blasty that hasn't had a good test ride first. Look it over well. How does it appear to have been maintained? If an engine looks rough on the outside, there's a good chance that it's like that on the inside as well. Take the airbox lid off and look at the filter. A dirty air filter is a worrisome sign. Especially if u take the filter off and see ANY dirt AT ALL sitting below it. Run, run!! Keep looking!

Just so you know, 100psi compression is actually rather low. Yup, they'll run on 100lb, but I daresay not too well. A 'healthy' Blaster engine will have 130-150psi when WARM. Take your compression reading with the throttle held wide open after the engine has been warmed-up. An honest seller won't mind you doing this test. If he/she balks at your testing compression, that's a good sign the seller isn't telling the whole truth... Keep looking. There are always other, better deals out there. Hope this info helps. I:I

Thanks for the tips. I was wondering about 100psi "service limits" at that point you're right they probably are on the way out. I'll keep you guys posted on what I find.
 
Looked at an 01 blaster today. Stock bore, FMF pipe. Owner didn't know if jetted? Idled high and didn't rev clean up top- Cold have still been cold...plug was more on the rich side dark gray/brown. We went on a short ride-pulled decent down low but wouldn't KILL the top end like a few I have ridden.

Compression was 115. Rear brake was non working (this is the third one with a bad rear brake) is this a common weak point...and headlight was missing.

Front tires were shot. All in all it was a 6 out of 10.

Guy is asking $900....I told him I am looking at a few more.

What are you guys thoughts?
 
Looked at an 01 blaster today. Stock bore, FMF pipe. Owner didn't know if jetted? Idled high and didn't rev clean up top- Cold have still been cold...plug was more on the rich side dark gray/brown. We went on a short ride-pulled decent down low but wouldn't KILL the top end like a few I have ridden.

Compression was 115. Rear brake was non working (this is the third one with a bad rear brake) is this a common weak point...and headlight was missing.

Front tires were shot. All in all it was a 6 out of 10.

Guy is asking $900....I told him I am looking at a few more.

What are you guys thoughts?

yeah for 900 bucks keeps lookin that machine is prolly only worth like 600 if at the most if you ask me...

and the rear brakes that are cable operated are notorious for going bad you have to baby sit them to keep them working...
 
yeah for 900 bucks keeps lookin that machine is prolly only worth like 600 if at the most if you ask me...

and the rear brakes that are cable operated are notorious for going bad you have to baby sit them to keep them working...

How much is a new set-up? Is there an online Blaster parts internet sales dealership that doesn't kill you on prices that anyone can recommend?

OR is his why people are converting to Banshee rear brake set-up?
 
hey man that blaster doesnt seem to healthy...... with a fmf pipe ur gonna loose topend..... on the 03-06 blasters they have disk brakes front back. they dont o bad ooften either........ check out ebay for rear brkae setups
 
Update...settled and bought a 99 blaster. It needs a few things and it has a spun rod bearing but it came with these parts and i got it pretty cheap so I jumped on it-for parts alone but it looks savable.

So far...
+5'' inch extended swingarm
Black Maier Racing plastic front and rear hood and fenders
ITP Beadlock rims
New 18in ITP mx6 tires
AC Racing nerf bars
DG Front bumper
DG 6 pack rack grab bar :-/
PRO- TAPER bars
Fly racing clutch perch
EBC Rear Brake Caliper
EBC Rear Rotor
Barrnet Clutch kit
DG Fatty headpipe
Project Blaster silencer


Its a decent block of clay to start with. Pics coming soon.
 
Update...settled and bought a 99 blaster. It needs a few things and it has a spun rod bearing but it came with these parts and i got it pretty cheap so I jumped on it-for parts alone but it looks savable.

So far...
+5'' inch extended swingarm
Black Maier Racing plastic front and rear hood and fenders
ITP Beadlock rims
New 18in ITP mx6 tires
AC Racing nerf bars
DG Front bumper
DG 6 pack rack grab bar :-/
PRO- TAPER bars
Fly racing clutch perch
EBC Rear Brake Caliper
EBC Rear Rotor
Barrnet Clutch kit
DG Fatty headpipe
Project Blaster silencer

yeah man that is! no such thing as a DG fatty headpipe (if its a DG u will be able to tell) (fatty pipes made by FMF say fatty on them) so its probabaly a fmf, and for the six pack rack, its probabaly a prm..... sounds like u got a nice deal... would u mind telling me how much u bought it for?
 
Update...settled and bought a 99 blaster. It needs a few things and it has a spun rod bearing but it came with these parts and i got it pretty cheap so I jumped on it-for parts alone but it looks savable.

So far...
+5'' inch extended swingarm
Black Maier Racing plastic front and rear hood and fenders
ITP Beadlock rims
New 18in ITP mx6 tires
AC Racing nerf bars
DG Front bumper
DG 6 pack rack grab bar :-/
PRO- TAPER bars
Fly racing clutch perch
EBC Rear Brake Caliper
EBC Rear Rotor
Barrnet Clutch kit
DG Fatty headpipe
Project Blaster silencer


Its a decent block of clay to start with. Pics coming soon.

dont sound to bad of start to a good project.......cant wait to see pics
 
Hey man sounds like u got yourself a good setup 4 a fun project. I hope everything works out good. If u need any help there is a lot of expierience and knowledge on this site. I know any of them ( myself included) will help you any way possible. Good Luck!

~Ricky~
 
Hey man sounds like u got yourself a good setup 4 a fun project. I hope everything works out good. If u need any help there is a lot of expierience and knowledge on this site. I know any of them ( myself included) will help you any way possible. Good Luck!

~Ricky~

Thanks bro..I look forward to building this thing !