Just Bought....
- Thread starter Kylew
- Start date
x2 do 22's even fit with the stock heal guards?
I just went from stock tires(21's) to 18's and I think i loose about 5 MPH or so with the different diameter (not to mention ground clearance). I just ordered a 14T sprocket off ebay for $6.50 shipped. Its a buy it now from EastCoastATV. The price seems good, just thought I'd let you know.
i bought one of those sprockets and its the bigest POS i have ever seen.. its so bad i wouldnt even run it and threw it away considering it lesson learned. i tried 22" mudlites before and with a stock swinger and heel guards they hit bad.
Dang thats not what I wanted to hear haha. Whats wrong with them, just made out of bad metal or what?
on the one i had the center splines were machined to wide so it was waaaaaay sloppy on the output shaft. i feel pretty sure that if i were to dump the clutch off the line it would have rounded out the center
Well hopefully mine isn't that bad. If it Is, I'll ask for my $ back and leave bad feedback if they don't make it right.
... Ok so I had the day off work today, and all i can say is. WOW.
This thing is so quick to pick up off road, climbs hills like there not even there, and jumps so smooth its crazy...
I was getting about 5' height off a little hill in 3rd and it was still asking for more. I couldnt possably be happier.
I climbed a hill l my buddys were wheelying up, and climbed it in second going like snot and never lifted the front wheel.
I was worried about it offroad because of the lower stance in the back, and even though i still need to get bigger tires, and a one tooth bigger drive sprocket. but oh my sh*t. I could not be happier with this bike. It out performed my every idea.
This thing is so quick to pick up off road, climbs hills like there not even there, and jumps so smooth its crazy...
I was getting about 5' height off a little hill in 3rd and it was still asking for more. I couldnt possably be happier.
I climbed a hill l my buddys were wheelying up, and climbed it in second going like snot and never lifted the front wheel.
I was worried about it offroad because of the lower stance in the back, and even though i still need to get bigger tires, and a one tooth bigger drive sprocket. but oh my sh*t. I could not be happier with this bike. It out performed my every idea.
haha, now do this-bitg bore-stroke it-port it! or just get ur stock jug ported, then u will really see a whole new machine. me personally im a go big or go home kinda guy, so i went with the 240 bbk and had an aggressive trail port done while i put a +3 in my motor. but i will tell u this 240 bbk are known for problems. so all u need is patience, lol
To the best of my knowledge porting cleans up the intake, exhaust, and transfer ports, and makes them bigger. Overall it should get more air and fuel into the cylinder giving you more power. I regret not getting it done when I rebuilt my top end a year ago. I wasn't a member her so I didn't really know about it. You should be able to get it ported and get the head redesigned for around $200 ish
Porting a 2 stroke involves changing the shape and size of the fuel/air devlivery ports as well as the exhaust port.
During a typical 2 stroke cycle, after the spark plug fires, the exhaust port is "opened" first to allow the charge to rush out.
The time that the exhaust port is uncovered BEFORE the intake ports uncover is called the "blow-down" period. The blaster engine has an unusually short blowdown period because of the engine's history as an enduro bike design originally. Porters will generally raise the roof of the exhaust port so that the port is uncovered sooner and stays open longer before the intake ports open to help the engine exhaust as much as it can without using the new charge to push the old charge out.
The tranfer ports and intake windows can be enlarged and raised slightly to be able to get more charge into the cylinder before the piston begins another stroke. The change to the shape and size is carefully calculated so that the piston and rings stay happy but allow the most flow.
All of the work done to a cylinder becomes a chorus tuned around a set of parameters. A good engine porter will port a cylinder to a particular RPM for a certain tuned exhaust and carburetor setup for a particular riding circumstance.
For example, you hear about a "trail port" and "dune port" and "drag port". Those are monikers given a particular amount of portwork to specifiy the RPM range and what the cylinder is intended to be used for.
Obviously, trail port will increase the power output focusing on over-all performance (not one particular RPM range). It's a torquey port job looking for mild gains in top end performance but much better low end grunt. Just what you need when you're down in the woods or encounter a little muddy terrain.
Dune-port is a slight sacrifice in torque for gains in the upper RPM ranges where sand would bog out a stock or "trail ported" motor. On a trail, a dune ported engine would perform but it would be a little peaky for navigating tight obstacles and would have a tendency to be "dead" when you need a little extra oomph. Downshifting helps until you're stuck in crud in 1st gear and can't wind it out because you can't sling the crud off the tires.
Drag port is a total sacrifice in low RPM power for HUGE gains at the very top of the possible RPM range. No good for anything else other than on a drag track.
During a typical 2 stroke cycle, after the spark plug fires, the exhaust port is "opened" first to allow the charge to rush out.
The time that the exhaust port is uncovered BEFORE the intake ports uncover is called the "blow-down" period. The blaster engine has an unusually short blowdown period because of the engine's history as an enduro bike design originally. Porters will generally raise the roof of the exhaust port so that the port is uncovered sooner and stays open longer before the intake ports open to help the engine exhaust as much as it can without using the new charge to push the old charge out.
The tranfer ports and intake windows can be enlarged and raised slightly to be able to get more charge into the cylinder before the piston begins another stroke. The change to the shape and size is carefully calculated so that the piston and rings stay happy but allow the most flow.
All of the work done to a cylinder becomes a chorus tuned around a set of parameters. A good engine porter will port a cylinder to a particular RPM for a certain tuned exhaust and carburetor setup for a particular riding circumstance.
For example, you hear about a "trail port" and "dune port" and "drag port". Those are monikers given a particular amount of portwork to specifiy the RPM range and what the cylinder is intended to be used for.
Obviously, trail port will increase the power output focusing on over-all performance (not one particular RPM range). It's a torquey port job looking for mild gains in top end performance but much better low end grunt. Just what you need when you're down in the woods or encounter a little muddy terrain.
Dune-port is a slight sacrifice in torque for gains in the upper RPM ranges where sand would bog out a stock or "trail ported" motor. On a trail, a dune ported engine would perform but it would be a little peaky for navigating tight obstacles and would have a tendency to be "dead" when you need a little extra oomph. Downshifting helps until you're stuck in crud in 1st gear and can't wind it out because you can't sling the crud off the tires.
Drag port is a total sacrifice in low RPM power for HUGE gains at the very top of the possible RPM range. No good for anything else other than on a drag track.
Welcome to the Forum there New-B.
Love the Blastee, nice grab!!! I:I
The year you scored has Hydraulic brakes all around which is a huge plus, by all means, great brakes for sure.
As asked but not YET answered, get the exact tire size of what you are running. Looks to be 18's in back(18x11x10?) and 19's up front? For your riding style and expectations the first thing you are going to want to do is swap the tires, and guess the rear rims as you say they are bent? Is just the edges bent here and there or do you have a wobble, etc? 10 inch rear rims are fine to run, and you still have alot of choices for tires to mount up. Stock rim size 8" in the rear, and there are TONS of tires available for the 8" rim. Just take your time and do not jump right into buying things up without doing some research, take your time.
You have come to the right place, to say the least, that is fact. Any questions concerns you have just ask, everyone is QUICK to respond, QUICK to help and by all means there is enough knowledge on this forum to stop the clock, so have at it.
Now, as far as porting, etc, yeah it is all for the better but SLOW down, take your time, get the bike setup correctly first then worry about what to do from there. You have alot to determine before you get into modding the motor.
As far as your 4" extended swingarm, KEEP it. Do NOT part with it, remove it, etc, you WILL regret it. One of the best things you can do to a Blaster, for handling and overall ridability purposes is extend it and widen it out. Makes for such a better handling machine. Those 18" tires are way too small and letting the motor rev too quickly. With that and the possible sprocket setup you are just revving out too fast, but as you see, while hill climbing, etc it is still working for you though. So, it is not that bad. I would say, first thing to do is find your master link on your chain, pop it off and get the chain off to properly expose the sprockets. Count the teeth on the front and the back, to properly get a true idea on what you are running. The stock tires size on a blaster is too tall, bouncy and baloony if you will. As recommended, absolutely run 20" tires on the back, say 20x11x8(or 10, depending on what rims you end up with) and a 21x7x10 up front. Once you get the sprocket count and tire size determined than you can get a better idea on where to go from there.
Stock sprockets are 13/40, I would say that is a good starting point for you. Some peoples riding style, and the way there motor is setup, tend to think a 14 tooth front is a little too much, it really all depends individually on the rider, style, terrain, and motor. do some R&D before you start buying stuff.
The Toomey exhaust is a great mod all around for the bike, I run it as well. What kind of Air filter setup are you running? Pull your seat and check it out. Still have the stock airbox? Is the lid on or off? What kind of filter?
Get the sprocket count and tires size and move from there, but Cheeezus Chrise don't touch that swingarm, once you get the bike setup correctly you will be thankful you left it. And, again if there are wheel spacers leave um for now, it is only helping you out in handling.
So, to sum it up. Port work is the shizzy, no matter what, but hold off till you get dialed in right with tires size, sprocket size, etc to find out where you stand, what ya like, how the bike is acting, etc.
Tires have to go, get setup with 21's up front and 20's in back, you will LOVE it.
I am looking forward to reading more on this bike, what ya find, what ya plan to do, etc, etc.
Welcome Blaster Brutha!!! I:I
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