Im back another problem =( Blaster acting very strange.
- Thread starter gb blaster
- Start date
The cylindrical part that the cable joins to is the slide, it has a groove that runs down the complete length.
This groove must run down over the little brass pin you will see in the bore in which the slide fits.
The large spring that fits in the slide, must make the slide bottom out.
This groove must run down over the little brass pin you will see in the bore in which the slide fits.
The large spring that fits in the slide, must make the slide bottom out.
So when i hook it back up just make sure that the large spring pushes the slide all the way down in the bore of the carb?? im stilll a little confused put the carb all the way back together then slide this little brass pin an large spring all the way to the bottm of the carb does the pin insert into this grove?
The pin is a fixture in the carb and the groove in the slide must be located over that pin as it slides back into the body.
The body he is talking about is the carb body, where the slide goes into. If you look down in that, you will see a little pin sticking out from the side, the size of pencil lead. Then look at your slide, the part attached to the cap, the spring and the long needle, that will have a groove in it the entire length of the slide. Those two need to line up, and the slide will easily slide all the way down to the bottom. Your needle (or valve needle) that is attached to the slide, should easily go right down into the needle valve, which is what your main jet screws into. I forget, do you still have your TORS?
As for the pics, I'm no good at photoshopping things..plus I'm at work and don't have access to my photos. If you look at the pic though, you'll see a big hex (rotate phone or pic so that is on the right), then just next to that you will see a smaller hex and then the next will be the black hole...that is reading the pic from right to left. The larger hex to the right, that is my needle and seat...the seat is the hex and the needle is the little part that falls out of it that should have the rubber tip. The smaller hex is my main jet, if you zoom in you will see the one in the picture is stamped with a square in a square (tough to see) and then 150...that is a #150 main jet...DO NOT PAY ATTENTION TO THAT SIZE, MY CARB CAME OFF A STREET BIKE WITH 4 CARBS AND CYLINDERS. Then, in that black hole, is my pilot jet. If you inspect all of these parts, you will see a stamping on them, that is their sizes. When you go to put these parts back in, you can't confuse where they go, they only fit in their rightful location. Also, just thread them in until they are seated, then lightly snug them...1/16 of a turn of the tool, just to keep them from loosening from vibration. They don't need to be cranked down...you don't want to strip the threads.
Like Blaaster said, there is no sealant for any of these parts. There will be a gasket though, between the float bowl and the carb body. 99 times out of 100 you can reuse that gasket, unless you see it is ripped or you used a screw drive to pry the bowl off the body.
As for the lines, the only one that needs to be hooked back up is the petcock for fuel supply...unless you have your oil injection hooked up. If not, that should be blocked off. The two other lines are just vent lines, you can actually keep them hooked up to the carb next time.
all lines are still hooked to the carb... i think i understand now so when i put the carb back together an flip in right side up an i look down the carb from the top theres gonna be a thin needle? this needle needs to run into the grove thats gonna be in the needle an spring that is gonna be attached to the cap that i took off to remove the carb. as long as these needles are matched up the cap will run correctly back into the carborator? an idk whats tors man i will check but im at work right now to... an no lube an the gasket looks good to me no tears cracks an is smooth looks newish actually..
OHHHHHH DONT LET ME FORGET.... hey i looked at the maunal i cant find my air screw where should it be located an how bad is it that there is a chance i been riding it without an air screw?
Not quite. The groove is going to be in your slide, the round cylinder that barely fits in the carb body. The needle, as most people will refer to it, is that long needle that sticks out the bottom of your slide, that you can adjust the clip on. It is just a matter of terminology, but I'm pretty sure you're getting it. Also, to be technical, some guys will call the slide a throttle valve...and that long needle is the valve needle....mostly referred to as the slide and the needle though for simplicity.
By the way, while you're in there, check that clip position. To do that, when you look in the top of your slide...needle is pointing away from you...you will see the clasp that your cable attaches to and a couple small screws. Take those screws out and that clasp will come out...the clasp is made of two pieces (at least mine is), so don't lose them, you will notice when you take it out. Then the needle will slide up out of the slide and on the top you will see the clip. To put it back in, put the needle back, drop your clasp in and rotate so the holes line up and then put your screws in...again, snug. A good screwdriver with slight magnetism will help you with this, put the screws on it then play operation to get the screws down in.
Looking from the gear shift side, the air screw should be right toward the rear about the middle line where the air cleaner tube comes in.
If it has been running without the screw a fair amount of air would have got in there, gees I sure hope it is there it sounds costly.
If it has been running without the screw a fair amount of air would have got in there, gees I sure hope it is there it sounds costly.
this should help.................
http://www.blasterforum.com/general-support-17/how-clean-your-carb-pics-209/
http://www.blasterforum.com/general-support-17/how-clean-your-carb-pics-209/
so step 8 that little round thing on the edge is the one needle? an step 9 that slit is the grove were referring to an god i wish i had that yesterday i understand awk your a life saver man....
an blaster ill look for the air screw an how do i no if my pilot jet is already in the right place or just count the number of turns and return it back that many times right or wrong?
not to be bustin your balls, just a tip, instead of waiting for someone to answer your question,
that little search button at the top of the page can find some amazing stuff !!!!!I:I
The pilot jet should be screwed up tight, it is the air screw that needs to be turned out 1 1/2 turns,
remove the airscrew, if present, if not, replace before ever starting that bike again
clean according to that link above, replace and lightly bottom it out, unscrew it 1.5 turns out to start
it should start and run like that
to properly adjust it, turn it 1/2 turns, in and out, allowing 15-20 seconds between each turn, until you find the number of turns that produces the highest idle, then fine tune with 1/8th turns till it revs cleanly
you should be between 1/2 turn and 2-1/2 turns out
report your findings
Awk i swear i used it i found everything about jettting an some videos i cant watch videos that all i found.
But your the man thanks alot.
im sure i have this down now as long as i was righta bout the needle and slide...
an the reed cage i need sealant when i remove it didnt u say blast? what kind an where do i put it? an im just taking the cage off making sure the reeds arnt laying flat an putting it back no cleaning or nothing is required...?
On it tonight for the air screw a complete clean an removing the reed cage this time i no i have ill post jet sizes the air screw findings and the reed cage condition anything else to look for while im in there?
get a flashlight and give that piston a look in the intake, rotate the crank to get the piston up to where you can see it all, look for scarring and gouges, light scratches will be fine
i use high temp copper perma-gasket in a tube, a light coat on both sides of the intake gasket and the intake itself where it seals to the reedcage
just a light coat, not globs that will squeeze out into the intake, let cure before running it, overnight is best
do not over tighten those intake bolts, main jet, pilot jet, or carb bowl screws, they all luv to strip very easily
skip your wheaties that morning, LOL
and be sure to put the brass washer back under the main jet, then slide the white plastic splash gaurd down over it
i use high temp copper perma-gasket in a tube, a light coat on both sides of the intake gasket and the intake itself where it seals to the reedcage
just a light coat, not globs that will squeeze out into the intake, let cure before running it, overnight is best
do not over tighten those intake bolts, main jet, pilot jet, or carb bowl screws, they all luv to strip very easily
skip your wheaties that morning, LOL
and be sure to put the brass washer back under the main jet, then slide the white plastic splash gaurd down over it
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