I am sick of it

sleekfx

sleekfx

New Member
Oct 20, 2009
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I have put so many threads on the site about blowing up the Blaster I have lost count. After rebuilding the engine again for racing on Sunday. We went and blew it up again. Advise on the day suggests we are running to lean. Grey coloured plug and bone dry piston and barrel.

Here's what is done to the bike:
Timing advanced by atleast 10 degree's from what I can see.
Ported and polished barrel
Lightened flywheel which broke and we changed it back.
Standard exhaust with the baffles taken out.
240 jet in the carb???????
67 mm piston

What the f**k am I going to do?

Serious advise please


Peter
 
well , what ratio are you mixing the fuel or are you using the oil injection system , if you still have the oil injection system running it may be broken ( not pumping enough or any oil into the fuel , and they are known for breaking ) what size carb? 240 jet is small , if you have the airbox lid off , or running a pod filter then you need to be up around a 290 to 300 main jet . also airleaks will cause you to run lean and burn it up . If you have pulled the tors system off and are running a twist throttle you may have a airleak at the throttle cable connection on top of the carb , that can be eliminated with a few winds of electrical tape around the boot etc... need more specifics about your engine set-up before it can be narrowed down .
 
imo, its that timing advance causing you troubles, 10 degrees??
where did you get the idea to go that far, 4 degrees is the norm, i dont have it, but had a "hotshot cdi", which electronically advanced the timing, i took it off and sold it, i noticed my motor running extremly hot with it on, and have since been relayed advice from a former yamaha engineer that............
"timing is dangerous power"
look elsewhere for power
and that 240 jet is also way too lean with porting and pipe mods, you should be at least a 270/290, but i'd start at a 320 possibly bigger and work your way down,
i'd also see how it likes dropping the needle clip one slot to feed it more fuel in the midrange too
 
Holy sheeet batman 10 degrees. A strong running ported motor should be about 4 degrees advanced and maybe 8 on a strong running ported 240 but 10 is way way too much.Second the standard exhaust is junk.No point in trying to build a fast machiine when you don't even have a semi decent aftermarket pipe to match those curves.So my advise bump the timing down get a new pipe and a new carb and see where that gets you.Also who ported the motor or was it like that when you got it.If you don't know it may be worth it to send it to one of the builders and have them clean it up and give you there pipe,carb,timing advance,flywheel,etc. etc. reccomendations to get you on a straight path.Last words of encourageent are plug chop,plug chop,plug chop,plug chop,plug chop,plug chop,plug chop,plug chop,and plug chop until you get it right.
 
OK
Standard carb
oil system is gone
The mixture Iwas told was 2ooml for four litre's of fuel( I am using double that)
The Tors is standard.
 
All the problems are pointing towards timing and jet. What is the best way to approch the problem. It's not going to give me major trouble if it's rich but I want to start rich and work my way backwards.

Peter
 
well first thing to do is put your timing back to stock or +4 max. do you have a leakdown tester to check for leaks just to be sure? and im with everyone above your jetted for a stock blaster with some reeds, go way up on your jet 280ish i would say
 
sleekfx said:
All the problems are pointing towards timing and jet. What is the best way to approch the problem. It's not going to give me major trouble if it's rich but I want to start rich and work my way backwards.

Peter
Click to expand...

Stock carb and pipe are holding you back.Bump the timing down.Mix the gas/oil 32:1 using a decent oil.I use klotz techniplate and love it.Get rid of the tors along with the carb....I can't help you with the stock carb jetting as I sell the stock carbs the minute I see them.Last make sure you do a very conservative break in with heat cycles,cool down time,keeping in certain rpm ranges increasing as break in period increases.
 
OK what is the tor's and is there a thread on here to show me what to do. The engine rebuild was done by a build company.

Peter
 
I think thats done. I am going to restart everything but I am looking for a jet kit. Something with all the different sizes so I can start and let's say 320 and work backwards until I get it right. I don't think keeping the mixture high is doing anything wrong and that would be the last step after the bike was running to reduce the mixture.This is good for members to know anyway and to be fair the blaster is not hard to work on or mess around with.

Peter
 
Is it not better to have more then less. When I split the engine yesterday at the track even with the double mixture the piston was bone dry and the plug was light grey in colour. That to me means it's lean, but should not be even with the mixture I am using.I am just going to go backwards and start all over again using a bigger jet (320) and work down in size until I get it right. If I keep going the way I am it's going to cost a fortune by the end of the season.

Peter
 
What difference does the poilet jet make. I have seen them on the Vito's web site along with the different main jets. Also on one of the posted reply's someone mentioned taking it up or down a notch? What does this mean?

Peter
 
It's not my garage but it is my shop and they are my cars aswell. I wish the blaster ran as well as the golf does. She is as sweet as a nut.

Peter
 
on my sons bike im running a stock carb, v force2 reedcage,
with mild porting, an f7 pipe and silencer, a uni filter in the stock airbox with no lid, the carb has a 300 main, needle clip on 4th slot down and stock pilot jet, mixing 32:1(thats 4 onces of oil to 1 gallon of fuel) you do the math,
this bike just screams, i've been riding it 2 -3 days a week, doing 45 minute laps of our mountian as practice for my buddies who run gncc bikes, so needless to say i'm running it very hard to keep up witht them on bikes, and its holding up well
also, i think when you over-mix the oil your taking away the octane of the fuel, the higher the octane the better and cooler it will run
just run whatever is the equivalent of 32:1 mix and the highest octane you can get
 
awk08 said:
also, i think when you over-mix the oil your taking away the octane of the fuel, the higher the octane the better and cooler it will run
just run whatever is the equivalent of 32:1 mix and the highest octane you can get
Click to expand...


this, in conjunction with most likely running lean and the timing is making this thing hooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooootttttttttttttttttttttttttt.


like they said, figure out 32:1 mix, put the timing back to STOCK (you can advance it a little after you keep it together a little while) and put a bigger jet in the carb. I'm guessing that with the stock pipe......you'll only need 260-280 main jet.

and do a leak down test on it before tearing it apart. here's a link
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/build-use-leakdown-tester-10663/

and i'd do it again after you put it together.


here's the deal, if you keep just throwing the top end on it after a bore/hone and not changing anything else.....guess what? its going to keep blowing up.

Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results.
Albert Einstein
 
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