Every shock is a bit different so you will have to adapt technique, but here are the basics.
Step 1. remove and clean shock
Step 2. measure the length of the spring(s) and write it down, you will use this measurement during reassembly to set your spring preload to what it was before.
Step 3. remove the spring. back the preload adjustment all the way off, your sping should now be slack and the spring keeper should be obvious. In the case of works and some others, the springs are held on by a big snap ring and the collar retains the ring. you will have to compress the spring to get it off. *CAUTION* the spring is under tension, it can bite if not carefull. It hlps to have a buddy help you the 1st couple times. To compress the spring a trick on the low budget tool program is to take a long open ended wrench, wrap a rag around it (so you don't scratch/gall the shaft) and use that to pry the spring.
Step 4. now that you have the spring off, clean the shock, then clean it again. the inside has very tight clearances and you don't want ANY dirt in there.
Step 5. turn the shock upside down and clamp the mount in a vice (the mount NOT the body) and use a punch or small philips screwdriver to tap the dust cap up, work each side evenly so it doesn't weiner or bind) * this step is not necessary for works front shocks*
then take the dustcap up out of your way and clean any dirt.
Step 6.
release the nitrogen pressure by pushing in on the schrader valve (air valve)
if the shock has a remote rezzie, remove it by taking the banjo bolt off. (oil will gush out at this point) * you do not need to do this with works fronts*
Step 7.
A. showa (250r, 400ex etc) type shocks: use a flat tipped punch or something similar to tap the seal head down into the shock (they can be stubborn, work on it don't wail on it) until the retaining ring is clearly visible., using a small pick, pop the retaining ring out *be carefull not to nick anything* once the retaining ring is removed, pull the shaft straight up (this can be a bit of work, try sticking a long screwdriver thru the shock mount to give you better pulling force.
B. works shocks.. the seal head, dust cap assembly is screwed in. I have a special tool, but you can make do with a pipe wrench, simply unscrew it untill it's free and pull the assembly out
Step 8. remove the bladder from the rezzie. the bladders are held in by a big retaining ring like the seal head, place a deep well socket over the scrahder valve so you don't damage it and give it a few taps, once the retaining ring is out comes the tricest part of the whole manuver. the easist way to remove the bladder is with an air nozzle, it should pop out. if it doesnt you will need to *CAREFULLY* pull it out, make sure the lip is smooth put the cap on, grap it with pliers and be carefull, it can break easily. I made a slide hammer that works pretty good.
Step 9. now that everything is apart, clean again.
Too refill, if it's a remote rez, ziptie it up as high as possible, if its like a 400ex type tilt the body, then pour you oil into the rez almost filling it and wait. you need to let the oil slowly trickle down to fill the hose and start entering the shock body so you dont have air bubbles. then push in the schrader valve and squeeze the bladder a little bit. now put more oil into the rezzieuntill its almost full, slide the bladder in and tap it down like you did to remove the retaining ring, but just enough to put the reaining ring back in.
now start filling the body about 2/3's full, pour slowly to try and avoid air bubbles. next slide the shaft assembly in so the piston is well below the oil, ad a little more oil, then slowly work the shaft in and out to get rid of the trapped air bubbles. if you break the surface of the fluid with the piston it will suck more air. l it sit for a while nd work it some more. then fill the body untill you think you almost have enough room for the seal head and tap the seal head in. this willtake some trial and error untill you get used to it, you want a little oil to squirt out while you do it but if you have too much oil it wont go all the way in, if it stops wanting to go, puch in on the rezzie schrader valve to let a little pressure out. then reinstall the retaining ring and dust cap. then have somebody charge it with nitrogen. rears are usually around 200 psi, fronts around 100.
there are many brands of shock oil available. I can't recommend one over the other. I have loved amsoil stuff since I first found it. they make shock oil/fluid now, but I have not tried it. I have used amsoil ATF in shocks with great success.
** if you need to replace your bumpstop** the nuts on the end of the shaft that holds the piston on it usually peened so it cannot come loose. you will need to take a drremmel and very carefully gring away at the top of the nut to premove the peening and carefully work the nut back and forth to get it off. be very carefull not to get the shim stacks out of order when you remove/replace the piston assembly. when putting the nut back on, use red loctite and attempt to repeen.. peen = sort like taking a punch and hitting the nut to compress the threads a bit after the nut is tight to put a 'bind' on it so it wont back off.
YOU WILL PROBABLY CURSE SCREAM AND GET FRUSTRATED THE FIRST COUPLE OF TIMES but after that it will be cake.
*Disclaimer* this is the basics on how to do it. you should have a decent understanding on how to do it, i can answer questions, but if this completely baffles you, more garage time is needed before you attempt this. you are dealing with high pressures and tight tolerances and very expensive parts. If you are unsure of yourself, have it done by a professional or get a cheap shock off ebay etc to practice on first.
Step 1. remove and clean shock
Step 2. measure the length of the spring(s) and write it down, you will use this measurement during reassembly to set your spring preload to what it was before.
Step 3. remove the spring. back the preload adjustment all the way off, your sping should now be slack and the spring keeper should be obvious. In the case of works and some others, the springs are held on by a big snap ring and the collar retains the ring. you will have to compress the spring to get it off. *CAUTION* the spring is under tension, it can bite if not carefull. It hlps to have a buddy help you the 1st couple times. To compress the spring a trick on the low budget tool program is to take a long open ended wrench, wrap a rag around it (so you don't scratch/gall the shaft) and use that to pry the spring.
Step 4. now that you have the spring off, clean the shock, then clean it again. the inside has very tight clearances and you don't want ANY dirt in there.
Step 5. turn the shock upside down and clamp the mount in a vice (the mount NOT the body) and use a punch or small philips screwdriver to tap the dust cap up, work each side evenly so it doesn't weiner or bind) * this step is not necessary for works front shocks*
then take the dustcap up out of your way and clean any dirt.
Step 6.
release the nitrogen pressure by pushing in on the schrader valve (air valve)
if the shock has a remote rezzie, remove it by taking the banjo bolt off. (oil will gush out at this point) * you do not need to do this with works fronts*
Step 7.
A. showa (250r, 400ex etc) type shocks: use a flat tipped punch or something similar to tap the seal head down into the shock (they can be stubborn, work on it don't wail on it) until the retaining ring is clearly visible., using a small pick, pop the retaining ring out *be carefull not to nick anything* once the retaining ring is removed, pull the shaft straight up (this can be a bit of work, try sticking a long screwdriver thru the shock mount to give you better pulling force.
B. works shocks.. the seal head, dust cap assembly is screwed in. I have a special tool, but you can make do with a pipe wrench, simply unscrew it untill it's free and pull the assembly out
Step 8. remove the bladder from the rezzie. the bladders are held in by a big retaining ring like the seal head, place a deep well socket over the scrahder valve so you don't damage it and give it a few taps, once the retaining ring is out comes the tricest part of the whole manuver. the easist way to remove the bladder is with an air nozzle, it should pop out. if it doesnt you will need to *CAREFULLY* pull it out, make sure the lip is smooth put the cap on, grap it with pliers and be carefull, it can break easily. I made a slide hammer that works pretty good.
Step 9. now that everything is apart, clean again.
Too refill, if it's a remote rez, ziptie it up as high as possible, if its like a 400ex type tilt the body, then pour you oil into the rez almost filling it and wait. you need to let the oil slowly trickle down to fill the hose and start entering the shock body so you dont have air bubbles. then push in the schrader valve and squeeze the bladder a little bit. now put more oil into the rezzieuntill its almost full, slide the bladder in and tap it down like you did to remove the retaining ring, but just enough to put the reaining ring back in.
now start filling the body about 2/3's full, pour slowly to try and avoid air bubbles. next slide the shaft assembly in so the piston is well below the oil, ad a little more oil, then slowly work the shaft in and out to get rid of the trapped air bubbles. if you break the surface of the fluid with the piston it will suck more air. l it sit for a while nd work it some more. then fill the body untill you think you almost have enough room for the seal head and tap the seal head in. this willtake some trial and error untill you get used to it, you want a little oil to squirt out while you do it but if you have too much oil it wont go all the way in, if it stops wanting to go, puch in on the rezzie schrader valve to let a little pressure out. then reinstall the retaining ring and dust cap. then have somebody charge it with nitrogen. rears are usually around 200 psi, fronts around 100.
there are many brands of shock oil available. I can't recommend one over the other. I have loved amsoil stuff since I first found it. they make shock oil/fluid now, but I have not tried it. I have used amsoil ATF in shocks with great success.
** if you need to replace your bumpstop** the nuts on the end of the shaft that holds the piston on it usually peened so it cannot come loose. you will need to take a drremmel and very carefully gring away at the top of the nut to premove the peening and carefully work the nut back and forth to get it off. be very carefull not to get the shim stacks out of order when you remove/replace the piston assembly. when putting the nut back on, use red loctite and attempt to repeen.. peen = sort like taking a punch and hitting the nut to compress the threads a bit after the nut is tight to put a 'bind' on it so it wont back off.
YOU WILL PROBABLY CURSE SCREAM AND GET FRUSTRATED THE FIRST COUPLE OF TIMES but after that it will be cake.
*Disclaimer* this is the basics on how to do it. you should have a decent understanding on how to do it, i can answer questions, but if this completely baffles you, more garage time is needed before you attempt this. you are dealing with high pressures and tight tolerances and very expensive parts. If you are unsure of yourself, have it done by a professional or get a cheap shock off ebay etc to practice on first.
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