First step, warm up engine. Drain the oil from transmission. Retighten bolt @ 14 ft. lb. of torque. Remove foot peg.
Cut the two oil lines out of the top of the sidecase. SAVE the plug that goes into the front cover. You are going to use it late. Insert a plug (bolt, screw etc.) into the lines so oil wont drip out everywhere. Pull the oil line from the carb fitting. Cut & Remove the oil lines leading from the tank to the pump, drain and clamp off to prevent spillage. Remove the stock plastic oil tank from the rear of the Blaster, draining all the YamaGoop. Remove the front, stock, plastic Injector Oil Pump Cover. There are two bolts that hold the oil pump, remove the bolts and pull the pump out. Now, remove the rest of the bolts that hold the main sidecase in place. You may need an impact driver to loosen the Phillips screws, be careful not to strip them.
There are two bolts that hold the oil pump, remove the bolts and pull the pump out.
Two screws and a little coaxing, the pump came off.
Next remove the rest of the bolts that hold the main sidecase in place. You may need an impact driver to loosen the Phillips screws, be careful not to strip them. You may have a hard time getting the kick starter off, be patient. You can see the clutches. It's a good idea to inspect them for wear.
With the cover removed, you will see a plastic drive gear. Pop-off the "C" Clip, pull the pin and gear out. Now remove the second "C" Clip and the worm gear will push out. Take a pair of pliers and pull the steel spacer out of the side case. The gear removes with two e-clips
When you are done, and before you install the front oil cover, use the stock rubber grommet that the oil injector lines ran through. Put some black silicone where the grommet meets the case, then fill the holes with silicone. While this is drying, Install the Sidecase DRY, using the new Clutch Cover Gasket, making sure both surfaces are clean, and the dowel pin is in place. Later, you can use silicone to install the front oil cover, or just bolt it on. We like to use a thin bead of Silicone as a moisture related safety precaution.
Now you can install the gasket and block-off plate provided in the kit. Use Lock-Tite on the machine screws and don't forget the lock washers.
Fill your transmission case with .70 of a Quart of 75 OR 80 Weight Motorcycle 2-cycle Transmission Fluid such as Maxima MTL NO Automotive Oils!! DO NOT Overfill, as it causes excessive internal pressure and could blow out a gasket(s). Forget the sight window in the engine case. If your engine is not leaking, you don't need to add oil as it has nowhere else to go.
FINALLY Don't forget to empty you gas tank of ALL of the gas you have in there before you removed the Oil Injection System. if you throw Pre-Mix on top of straight gas, you just diluted the mixing ratio. So........ Please make sure you drain it direct from the petcock under the tank. And when finsihed, double check all fittings and hoses. Then add you new Pre-Mix to start the Blaster after the Oil Injection System has been removed.
Cut the two oil lines out of the top of the sidecase. SAVE the plug that goes into the front cover. You are going to use it late. Insert a plug (bolt, screw etc.) into the lines so oil wont drip out everywhere. Pull the oil line from the carb fitting. Cut & Remove the oil lines leading from the tank to the pump, drain and clamp off to prevent spillage. Remove the stock plastic oil tank from the rear of the Blaster, draining all the YamaGoop. Remove the front, stock, plastic Injector Oil Pump Cover. There are two bolts that hold the oil pump, remove the bolts and pull the pump out. Now, remove the rest of the bolts that hold the main sidecase in place. You may need an impact driver to loosen the Phillips screws, be careful not to strip them.
There are two bolts that hold the oil pump, remove the bolts and pull the pump out.
Two screws and a little coaxing, the pump came off.
Next remove the rest of the bolts that hold the main sidecase in place. You may need an impact driver to loosen the Phillips screws, be careful not to strip them. You may have a hard time getting the kick starter off, be patient. You can see the clutches. It's a good idea to inspect them for wear.
With the cover removed, you will see a plastic drive gear. Pop-off the "C" Clip, pull the pin and gear out. Now remove the second "C" Clip and the worm gear will push out. Take a pair of pliers and pull the steel spacer out of the side case. The gear removes with two e-clips
When you are done, and before you install the front oil cover, use the stock rubber grommet that the oil injector lines ran through. Put some black silicone where the grommet meets the case, then fill the holes with silicone. While this is drying, Install the Sidecase DRY, using the new Clutch Cover Gasket, making sure both surfaces are clean, and the dowel pin is in place. Later, you can use silicone to install the front oil cover, or just bolt it on. We like to use a thin bead of Silicone as a moisture related safety precaution.
Now you can install the gasket and block-off plate provided in the kit. Use Lock-Tite on the machine screws and don't forget the lock washers.
Fill your transmission case with .70 of a Quart of 75 OR 80 Weight Motorcycle 2-cycle Transmission Fluid such as Maxima MTL NO Automotive Oils!! DO NOT Overfill, as it causes excessive internal pressure and could blow out a gasket(s). Forget the sight window in the engine case. If your engine is not leaking, you don't need to add oil as it has nowhere else to go.
FINALLY Don't forget to empty you gas tank of ALL of the gas you have in there before you removed the Oil Injection System. if you throw Pre-Mix on top of straight gas, you just diluted the mixing ratio. So........ Please make sure you drain it direct from the petcock under the tank. And when finsihed, double check all fittings and hoses. Then add you new Pre-Mix to start the Blaster after the Oil Injection System has been removed.