So i took off the carb and cleaned it today, the bike was running great, but the idle came down I have the TORS adjustment but i turned it clockwise like 3 whole turns and it will not stay idled, any help on this?
Hesitation on initial take off
- Thread starter jasindude1
- Start date
lose the tors unit on top of the carb for this.....
Blaster Tors Eliminator Kit w Idle Screw Kit 88 2006 | eBay
and adjust the airscrew/pilot jet following the link i posted above 2 days ago
Blaster Tors Eliminator Kit w Idle Screw Kit 88 2006 | eBay
and adjust the airscrew/pilot jet following the link i posted above 2 days ago
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Ok, so I played with it, I got it to idle good, but throttle response is a little lacking I'm gonna take it for a ride and adjust Im @ 2 turns out now, but the thing is oil is leaking out the exhaust is this normal? I understand it may have been rich, but should i turn it out more to reduce this?
It is pretty normal for oil to leak from the exhaust, but if gases are leaking too it could be upsetting the breathing.
Fix the leak and adjust the idle.
Idle adjusting.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor to responds.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
Fix the leak and adjust the idle.
Idle adjusting.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor to responds.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
OK, so after fiddling with this blaster the whole afternoon this is the progress I have. Installed and new UNI competition filter, new spark plug, regardless of how much i tried to get the idle going with the TORS screw I couldn't. So i adjusted the throttle to compensate for the idle, I removed the air box, and adjusted the air/fuel mix 2.5 turns out. This gave me the best throttle response and ran the best wide open, I still have a slight hesitation on initial take off, it is barely noticeable then the thing rips. I think the next step is to re-jet what would be the next jet up? I have a EMF racing exhaust, UNI filter.
also with the TORS screw do you guys think it is something I did when I cleaned the carb? or forgot to setup correctly? is it ok to bypass it with the throttle adjustment? I am done working on it for today, but if I can maybe get a few tips on my progress so far and maybe some things to consider or look at tomorrow when I tear it apart again...BTW thank you guys so much for your help so far
Noone can tell you 100% what main jet will be perfect for you, but with the aftermarket filter, fmf and lid removed you should be right around a 280 ... If you premix expect to go one size bigger !
i do i run 32:1, I have been looking up kits, and some have stage 1 and stage 2. Do i need a whole kit or just the main jet? what is a good site to get them from?
jet kits are a waste of money, they usually contain all the jets you do not need
buy single jets from your local dealer,
online....carb parts warehouse, jets-r-us, sudco
or ebay < search "280 mikuni jet", ect.
stock needle on the middle clip for every stock carb i've ever tuned
buy single jets from your local dealer,
online....carb parts warehouse, jets-r-us, sudco
or ebay < search "280 mikuni jet", ect.
stock needle on the middle clip for every stock carb i've ever tuned
so i was looking at pix of my carb and others online. I noticed I am missing the brass plate piece that is on the top left side of the carb, what is this piece and is it important? could this be the reason my bike wont idle?
Ok! Cool. So I was reading another thread that said running rich will cause the no idle issues, n cause idle adjustment to be ineffective and the hesitation issue, and it said if u have to turn the air screw more than 3 turns then a re jet is in order, any truth to this? I want to work on the idle issue today I have it idling by the throttle cable adjusted @ the handle bars.
running rich...has to refer to the jetting range that is effective at the rpms your problem is in.
a rich main jet has nothing to do with idle or mid range rpm's.
airscrew/pilot jet = idle - 1/4 throttle
needle/ clip settings = 1/4 - 3/4 throttle positions
main jet = 3/4 - wide open throttle
a stock 26mm mikuni carb on a stockish blaster needs the stock 32.5 pilot jet...period.
clean it, by running a small wire thru it, spray out with carb cleaner and blow out with a compressor.
or replace it with a new 32.5 genuine mikuni jet only
your airscrew setting will be effected by elevation and air temps, with a stock carb on the 32.5 pilot, it will be between 1/2 and 2-1/2 turns out to achieve highest idle (re-read the airscrew/pilot sticky thread in the carb section)
if highest idle is below or above those turns, you have other problems, like a dirty/clogged pilot jet, an airleak, float height, ect.
So I went back thru the carb this time with a fine tooth comb! There was still some sediment in the pilot jet and the main jet, the jet is a 250 BTW, I cleaned it good, blew it out and it was able to idle very high I actually had to lower the compensated throttle quite a bit. Took it for a ride and it is much faster than before! I think I got it tuned pretty good @ 2.75 turns out with a quick throttle response until I ran out of gas, there was about a half gallon in there do these machines burn that much fuel? I can't see hitting a trail and for that long with needing refuel. Is there a way to adjust and tweak to get a little more mileage out of a tank?
2.75 turns out on the airscrew still sounds like alot for a stockish bike.
it should be around 1.5 turns out, but each bike is different.
sure you're not masking an airleak ?
no, you should not switch to 40:1 mix, that will richen the air to fuel ratio.
jet it for 32:1 fuel/oil mix
i'm not re-reading thru this whole thread, but if you're running a stock pipe, the main should be a 230.
+ 1 for an after market air filter,
+1 for the airbox lid off,
some suggest, but i've never had too..
+1 for mixing versus injection.
plug chop to dial in the main jet.
it should be around 1.5 turns out, but each bike is different.
sure you're not masking an airleak ?
no, you should not switch to 40:1 mix, that will richen the air to fuel ratio.
jet it for 32:1 fuel/oil mix
i'm not re-reading thru this whole thread, but if you're running a stock pipe, the main should be a 230.
+ 1 for an after market air filter,
+1 for the airbox lid off,
some suggest, but i've never had too..
+1 for mixing versus injection.
plug chop to dial in the main jet.
It would help to know more about the pipe, it may help in advising on a jet size.
Please post all your breathing mods.
Have you fixed the leaky exhaust?
Can you put up a pic of the exhaust if you do not know the maker?
It's a FMF racing exhaust with UNI competition filter. Air box lid is off. New NGK plug. I did fix the leaking exhaust just tightened up everything and re did the air fuel mix. The main jet is currently a 250. I took it out and the thing ran fast almost scary fast with no hesitation and excellent top end. The only issue I had on the run was the carb lid came un screwed and the needle lodged against the carb @ WOT I was able to un screw it and re align it can I ad a couple drops of loctite on it? I'm glad I had another quad to tow it back to my truck and do the repairs.
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