Herpes came back

Yeah Herp , the new Blaster looks sweet !! . No offense or nothing, but I just seen the port work and im glad you didn't pay for that. Btw how do you like the larger carb? is it working for you? As far as the crank you can measure from the plug hole, use a straw or something similar and measure..
 
You knew what I meant...its late night!

You did a good job whipping it back into shape.
awesome work herp !!!!!
Awesome looking blaster!
thanks guys. this is what $2500 gets me :)

Yeah Herp , the new Blaster looks sweet !! . No offense or nothing, but I just seen the port work and im glad you didn't pay for that. Btw how do you like the larger carb? is it working for you? As far as the crank you can measure from the plug hole, use a straw or something similar and measure..
i have only ridden it down the alley and back a few times. so much top end pull its ridiculous. i preferred it low. time to learn to ride high rpm
im just going to assume its a +3mm rod. mainly because its hot rods and the piston goes to the highest point allowable without touching the head
 
well i found a thread by whathisname (idk) and he ran a 290 with an LRD and the 32mm carb i have.

i have a 330 in the stock carb i think on my last one, not 100% sure. i have a 310 and 320 or something left from the last build
 
Got my intake boot today, and then decided i didnt like the restrictions of the billet piece, so i spent two hours filing them
it had the + thing in the middle and a big lip around half of it, so i ground it all out and made it smooth
had to grind a little of the reed cage (someone else had done some before)

threw it in and im in the process of figuring out where the heck our leak tester leaks... cant hear the air, but i drains fast
tomorrow or when i have time i will be putting it in a bowl of water and checking for bubbles.

im pondering he thought of welding the flange to my pipe. but with the flange on, it wont come off the frame.
so, im wondering now if i cut about 3 inches off the part that connects to the stinger, if it would fit then?
anyone have thoughts on this? this is the part im thinking of cutting
 
Got my intake boot today, and then decided i didnt like the restrictions of the billet piece, so i spent two hours filing them
it had the + thing in the middle and a big lip around half of it, so i ground it all out and made it smooth
had to grind a little of the reed cage (someone else had done some before)

threw it in and im in the process of figuring out where the heck our leak tester leaks... cant hear the air, but i drains fast
tomorrow or when i have time i will be putting it in a bowl of water and checking for bubbles.

im pondering he thought of welding the flange to my pipe. but with the flange on, it wont come off the frame.
so, im wondering now if i cut about 3 inches off the part that connects to the stinger, if it would fit then?
anyone have thoughts on this? this is the part im thinking of cutting
I wanna know how that turns out if you do it. Could be a possible fix to the dreaded leaky flange! I don't remember, but is it possible to remove it with flange on without the a arm on?
 
no, its a pain iun the rear to remove lol.

i dont want to just cut it off without knowing... but we will see.

and blasterfun, i would just take that 3" and put it on the stinger and it would mount up fine with a little modification
 
Ahh i see, if it makes it easier i do have a size uo clamp in black, if you covered shipping i can just send the coupler and you can use the clamps from the green
 
i will send you a picture of how the pipe goes together when im out in the playhouse next. its weird to explain.

also, if you welded another mount onto the pipe, it wouldnt move at all. currently when its mounted to the a-arm bolt, it can pivot around the bolt. which is why they wont seal, because when it pivots, it pulls straight out of the flange
 
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i will send you a picture of how the pipe goes together when im out in the playhouse next. its weird to explain.

also, if you welded another mount onto the pipe, it wouldnt move at all. currently when its mounted to the a-arm bolt, it can pivot around the bolt. which is why they wont seal, because when it pivots, it pulls straight out of the flange
So true! It's so difficult to make that pipe sit square in the hole. Square and circle, seems unlikely. I tried spacing it with washers off the bracket. Helped a little.
 
Well im going riding today.

its all back together and i did a leak test again (glad i did)

i found that the brass nut on top of the red intake piece was the wrong bolt and leaked like crazy.
i tried to fit a new one in but threads were crap. so its now full of quicksteel
 
so today was riding at the bismarck "dunes"

its actually pretty fun. there is some sand like dunes. some hard sand by the water, and some sand trails




like i said, fun, and sh*t hit the fan from there on (bout half hour in).............

for this i walked to the truck (1/4 mile maybe little less) got the airbox back on and realized the spark plug tip (the screw on part) had screwed off. inside the boot no less. so i couldnt get it out without either another plug or the plug wrench. so i pushed the mofo to the truck. uphill, rollers, sand...


next problem, this sent me 10 miles in the truck to Ace, not to mention trying to get the blaster IN the truck on ramps at a 40 degree angle. one came off, another when i was unplugging them. the ones i had were from menards. they suck. the new ends from ace are way better and i will probably switch them all. here the fun part. i had my tool box, and did NOT have a pliers... flywheel holder to the rescue


and then this... it's self-explanatory. i said "im done" and went to ace again (did not go back riding, i had other plans in an hour)
 
Sounds like you had quite the day! Look at the bright side, when you get everything fixed, you found a nice place to ride. Was it far from your new house?