That's pretty cool. Looks like the guy may of been hungover when welding that mounting tab on.
Herpes came back
- Thread starter Herpderplol
- Start date
Got my pipe in.
I knew the silencer was messed up, probably why no one else bid the last 2 days. I didn't realize the rust was this bad but that's aight I will probably end up painting it black
I knew the silencer was messed up, probably why no one else bid the last 2 days. I didn't realize the rust was this bad but that's aight I will probably end up painting it black
not sure if this is the exact fit or if you wanna dump more money, but heres a new cone tip
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-Cone-C...Parts_Accessories&hash=item5b08a29bb0&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-Cone-C...Parts_Accessories&hash=item5b08a29bb0&vxp=mtr
nice, i will keep it in mind. im going to try heat and some hammering. i really dont care about the tip. if i paint it black i probs wont look at it
oh man didn't think bout that, you filling it and fileing it down? doug did that with an aluminum bumper, filled a dent and sanded her out like youd never knew it happened
what about the aluminum foil and water trick?
i used a paint/rust stripper disc before cuz wire wheel was not cutting it either
i used a paint/rust stripper disc before cuz wire wheel was not cutting it either
aluminum foil on the pipe? hah. 80 grit sand paper doesnt like taking it off. the foil is used more as a final polish because its very smoothwhat about the aluminum foil and water trick?
i used a paint/rust stripper disc before cuz wire wheel was not cutting it either
tomorrow i will be using TIG again with what my brother suggested. i plan to fill in as much as i can on the top and then grind/file down excess.
i also cant get the dent out to save my life. i used a vehicle dent pulled and it wouldnt budge. i heated around all the bends and wouldnt go. i heated the whole dent and it moved a little before i ripped the screw out. it is unfortunate that i would have to grind and reweld the plate in if i wanted to hammer it from the back side, but i might end up doing that because this dent will always bother me... even if i paint it black
As for the silencer body, i started with 220 and then did 400 sand paper. after that i switched to steel wool and compound. if i had spent another half hour on it i could have possibly had mirror finish, but about 40% mirror its fine. im using high temp clear coat so it is very smooth and i like the look
I did 600, 800 followed by 1000 to get my mirror finish.... then polished with blue magic....looks dipped almost also if you have a dremel like I do, you can buy the brass type brushes and it literally eats rust back down to the chrome, or at least it did for me
also if you have a dremel like I do, you can buy the brass type brushes and it literally eats rust back down to the chrome, or at least it did for me
last time i used a brass brush on our dremel i had bristles in my cheeks, arms and hands. needless to say we had a single speed
i put a paint stripper disc on a corded, not battery operated drill till my arms hurt......and it worked
thats all i got herp
thats all i got herp
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Yea gotta have a multi speed, 12,24,36k rpm....only way to go.... crap hurts but I wear goggles and long sleeves now....lol
The stealth look is pretty nice. No more huge pipe to burn a leg on. The silencer tip will be black. I had it half welded up and then I smashed it...
Any updates on this?
Oh I have a question. Do you have to cut / trim the MFG race fender at all to make the hood fit? No trimming at the front of fender? Apart from cutting a hole for the air flow from scoop in hood.
Looking into buying a hood for mine right now.
Oh I have a question. Do you have to cut / trim the MFG race fender at all to make the hood fit? No trimming at the front of fender? Apart from cutting a hole for the air flow from scoop in hood.
Looking into buying a hood for mine right now.
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/the-start-of-my-ground-up-build.60607/page-7
Here's the hood info
Here's the hood info
