help a newbie with his carb?

mpleger76

mpleger76

New Member
Jun 26, 2010
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CDA, Idaho
Im a beginer blaster fiend, and am learning as i go like most of us. I recently rebuilt my carb and put a tors elim kit on, i didn't realize i needed to turn my pilot jet out.. needless to say it didnt want to start. it is a stock carb with stock jets and was running ok.. how many turns out does my pilot need to be? i have the air screw out 1.5 turns. hope to go wheelin soon!!! thanks!
 
pilot jet should be seated, the air screw is the only thing turn in or out as far as jetting. your idle may be set to low to pull air in with the fuel. have you tried holding the throttle open a little while trying to starting it? did you add a idle screw to the carb? Cause the TORS has a built in idle adjustment. Are there any other mods like air lid off of the filter box, aftermarket pipe, filter like K&N. these can change how the carb is jetted.
 
so you drilled a hole in the side of the carb for the IDLE skrew???? if so then you might have to give it a little gas to get it started then adjust the idle when the bike is warmed up. the air/fuel skrew on the left side closest to the air intake tube should yes, be 1.5 turns out from seated
 
sorry was away from my computer for a while. I have tried holding it open to start, full choke, half choke, no choke, my foot hurts..ha ha. it used to have a 240 primary but always ran very rich, smoked like a train. but atleast it would start.(two kicks usually) maybe i should go from 230 back to 240.. seems like its not getting enough gas. I took the plug out after lots of atempts to start and it didn,t look at all wet.. very strong spark, what could i have done? oh yeah a couple of very small holes in the airbox lid and no snorkle( i think its supposed to have one) otherwise stock besides a +2 swing extension and a old crappy fmf silencer. stock head pipe. thanks for your input.
 
i did both of those things and adjusted the float so that it is almost over full, even with the new float needle seal or whatever its called it lets a little drip out the over flow every so often. i think the bowl is full.. is was super clean when i put it back together but who knows maybe something got plugged. back apart it goes! i got is started the other day by pull starting it whith my riding partners banshee it felt awesome up in the top end but crappy down low and the new idle screw wouldnt even touch the idle even all the way burried. i would tear my hair out if i had any left!
 
I havent got into it since i bought, it but i got it with a burned piston and ring. the head didnt look bad so i honed it myself and put a new stock piston and rings in it it ran pretty good besides some carb problems mine had a stripped out cap one the tors deal, so i bought a carb on ebay and cleaned it out and put it on it had more power but was harder to start so i put the rebuild kit in it and the tors elim kit with idle screw and now it wont kick start at all. i will admit i let the filter get a little dirty and rode it in some pretty dusty conditions hopefully im not looking at a topend rebuild. i think i would buy a new motor first.
 
boring the jug is cheap compared to a new motor. But does sound like you have compression issues. Check your compression it should be over 90 psi to even kick start it. But ideally should be around 120 - 160 psi to run on pump gas.
 
Thanks for the advise on the compression check. I just took apart the whole carb again. All looks good to me. Then I took off the ruber manifold and then the reed. The manifold looked to be leaking and the reed definately has some damage a chip off of one side and wore pretty round on the other side. getting a new one before i put it back together. should i get boyseen reeds or something even with a stock setup? Is it a bad idea to use one of the outerwear type open airboxs even with stock pipes, new pipes are in the near future so i would like to start putting good stuff on now. prob asked to much, thanks for you time and good advise
 
mpleger76 said:
Thanks for the advise on the compression check. I just took apart the whole carb again. All looks good to me. Then I took off the ruber manifold and then the reed. The manifold looked to be leaking and the reed definately has some damage a chip off of one side and wore pretty round on the other side. getting a new one before i put it back together. should i get boyseen reeds or something even with a stock setup? Is it a bad idea to use one of the outerwear type open airboxs even with stock pipes, new pipes are in the near future so i would like to start putting good stuff on now. prob asked to much, thanks for you time and good advise
Click to expand...

missing a chunk of reed can cause starting issues, the one way valve thing doesn't work then and you will get low compression. But never hurts to know what compression you have as a base line for future rebuilds for the top end. I'm just running a Uni filter with no lid on air box, But an outerwear would help keep large debris out of the filter. Hope you or the previous owner rejeted for the lid removal, I went up 2 sizes on the main for mine. You will need to rejet for a pipe when installed too. Plug chops are the way to figure your jetting.
 
mpleger76 said:
I havent got into it since i bought, it but i got it with a burned piston and ring. the head didnt look bad so i honed it myself and put a new stock piston and rings in it it ran pretty good besides some carb problems mine had a stripped out cap one the tors deal, so i bought a carb on ebay and cleaned it out and put it on it had more power but was harder to start so i put the rebuild kit in it and the tors elim kit with idle screw and now it wont kick start at all. i will admit i let the filter get a little dirty and rode it in some pretty dusty conditions hopefully im not looking at a topend rebuild. i think i would buy a new motor first.
Click to expand...

If it was me, I would have the top end bored and honed. As it was explained to me, the tolerance between the piston and the cylinder is so small it is way better to have it bored and honed with a bigger piston than just re-ring of a stock piston because the motion that caused the re-ring also made the cylinder hole bigger so if you just re-ring you will still get a large amount of "blowback" i think its called, passed the rings and you will see a lot of smoke. I have had this problem from putting a stock piston and rings in a cylinder that was already bored once, and I thought it was stock.
 
darederek said:
can you use RTV as locktite in a pinch? just curious
Click to expand...

i wouldnt, im sure it would help but think about what is riding on those screws not coming out... a $6 tube of locktite and mabey a few hours less riding time seems liek a deal compared to a rebuild and possible worst with a big fat screw in your motor...
 
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