Full Rebuild of $180 "Blaster"
- Thread starter jbuckster07
- Start date
Yes I know that, didnt mention vitos though. Hot rods only makes a stroke and +4 from the research I have done, looking to get a conformation of that and that since its not trenched its a stock stroke crank.
Update: (PIC HEAVY)
Well got a little drunk last week and bought the eBay. First off, anyone who uses this kit and does nothing to it but install it, is a complete moron in my book.... There is no chamfers on the ports, the exhaust port is sooooo rough that it will kill any power that the blaster has. There are uncleaned edges and pieces of aluminum EVERYWHERE!
Here are some pics:
So yesterday I got the dremel out on my "workbench" since I dnt have one lol. Went to Lowes to grab some bits to get this exhaust port to actually function.
The dremel and bit I used
I did not raise the ports or anything, at this point its it basically to get it smoothed out and polished as much as I can.
Didnt get it finished, all I got to was the carbide bit, then the grinding stone to remove the tool marks and then some 60 grit sand paper. Tonight I hopt to get it polished up. Took me almost 3 hours to get to this point!
Well got a little drunk last week and bought the eBay. First off, anyone who uses this kit and does nothing to it but install it, is a complete moron in my book.... There is no chamfers on the ports, the exhaust port is sooooo rough that it will kill any power that the blaster has. There are uncleaned edges and pieces of aluminum EVERYWHERE!
Here are some pics:
So yesterday I got the dremel out on my "workbench" since I dnt have one lol. Went to Lowes to grab some bits to get this exhaust port to actually function.
The dremel and bit I used
I did not raise the ports or anything, at this point its it basically to get it smoothed out and polished as much as I can.
Didnt get it finished, all I got to was the carbide bit, then the grinding stone to remove the tool marks and then some 60 grit sand paper. Tonight I hopt to get it polished up. Took me almost 3 hours to get to this point!
Well finally got the eBay cylinder to a usable condition. There were some pits in the exhaust port that were deep, and I couldn't get it completely smooth. So instead of chasing them to get it smooth I had to leave it like it was.
Here is the transfer ports, took some material off, knife edged the middle section. Didnt want to get crazy though.
Before
During
Finished
Intake Before
During
Finished
I didnt go crazy here either, just got rid of the paint, didnt polish it or anything just kept it a rough texture. I rounded the bridge the best I could. I saw many pictures of the bridge rounded and knifed. Didnt know what was best, so I rounded it.
If you have any criticism, pointers, insights please let me know if I need to fix something, did something wrong, anything. I can take criticism if I did it wrong.
Here is the transfer ports, took some material off, knife edged the middle section. Didnt want to get crazy though.
Before
During
Finished
Intake Before
During
Finished
I didnt go crazy here either, just got rid of the paint, didnt polish it or anything just kept it a rough texture. I rounded the bridge the best I could. I saw many pictures of the bridge rounded and knifed. Didnt know what was best, so I rounded it.
If you have any criticism, pointers, insights please let me know if I need to fix something, did something wrong, anything. I can take criticism if I did it wrong.
Here is one done by a master of the art of porting to compare with, I feel you have quite a good job!
I actually printed that one off at work on 11x17" paper as a guide. I felt that since this has no bigger mods and is a stock blaster that going all out on the intake wouldnt make as big of a difference. I did make the windows bigger, not by much, in the second intake pic you can see how much bigger I made them looking at the right port.
Even with the windows only slightly bigger, you should produce good power over stock.
My comment was mainly about the bridge, but the windows look good too.
My comment was mainly about the bridge, but the windows look good too.
So i started putting this motor back together last night. The clutch measured within spec so I figured I would just use them. So tossed it on, torqued everything to spec (using the Clymers manual) got the cover on and put the engine upright. spun the crank and I hear a "clicking" noise when it spins over. Now I never opened the cases but looks like I'm going to have to now. Also another question, the crank doesnt want to spin both ways, is that correct? Will it only spin 1 way?
I sounds like some thing rather big has dropped in, not small enough to be trapped in between the case and crank, but allowing the crank to move it out of the way in one direction, but trap it in the reverse.
Collapsed bearings can also exhibit that symptom!
Collapsed bearings can also exhibit that symptom!
So there was some metal bits inside the tranny case, not really sure where they came from, you can see the scrape marks inside the counterbalance area.
debris in the bottom
Next question: So I have 2 bottom ends, and the color of the bearings are completely different! Once is really brown, while the other is normal looking. Any thoughts about that?
Started tearing down this engine. QUESTIONS:
The PVL Stator thing doesnt have a keyway for the flywheel key, its just a press fit onto the shaft. Any ideas on this? I havent researched how this works yet because its still a little ways away from being ready.
debris in the bottom
Next question: So I have 2 bottom ends, and the color of the bearings are completely different! Once is really brown, while the other is normal looking. Any thoughts about that?
Started tearing down this engine. QUESTIONS:
The PVL Stator thing doesnt have a keyway for the flywheel key, its just a press fit onto the shaft. Any ideas on this? I havent researched how this works yet because its still a little ways away from being ready.
That looks like it has spun severely at one time, it may be hiding under the score marks.
Just maybe there is none are there any locating marks?
Just maybe there is none are there any locating marks?
it was a PITA to get off....the special puller I had to buy didnt even want to take it off! From what I have read some have keyways and some do not. But to time it I have to place the bracket on the bike, then find TDC and then place the rotor on the shaft. Man this is crazy. Might sell this stupid thing and find OEM flywheel/stator
Providing those bearings run free when lubricated they both should Be OK.
They are both Japanese made!
They are both Japanese made!
they both spin freely without any resistance, the color of the one just threw me way off.
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