Fiance's Full Rebuild

Awk08 said:
your main jet only effects 3/4 to full throttle, not the rpm jumps at start-up/idle, unless you were holding wide open trying to rev it, (i hope not on a fresh motor ?)
the lack of revving prolly has more to do with the float heigth, pilot circut/airscrew, needle clip setting, an airleak, or a tors problem if still connected ?
look in the carb section at the stickies at the top for the threads on each of those subjects
Click to expand...

I am waiting on leak down tester so that will be known once that gets here... Even if i wanted to rev it wide open it wouldnt go there anyway...

On a separate note.. the clutch will dont disengage... The shop I have been buying parts from says that if the adjustments are right, you just need to launch it into gear and it should break free...
I did the adjustments twice, once when I first put it together and a second time when I bought new clutch plates and I followed exactly what it says in Clymer's manual... And I watched a youtube video that was posted on here jlsparky7 is the user name on youtube... When i had it apart i moved the clutch spring with pliers and you could see the clutch open and close... I have read on here that people soak there plates for 24 hours? I only soaked them for a few minutes.. The manual i have only says 'lubricate each clutch plate w/ transmission fluid).
 
A couple pics of what it looks like now... I do have rear plastics on now but, you get the point.
 

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Looking good.

No matter how long you soaked the plates for or the amount of oil you splashed on each one on assembly the plates should still disengage.

Is the little ball between the rods?
 
Blaaster said:
Looking good.

No matter how long you soaked the plates for or the amount of oil you splashed on each one on assembly the plates should still disengage.

Is the little ball between the rods?
Click to expand...

Yes it is, i might just go ahead and order new rods and a ball, and maybe a new clutch cable.
 
Ok, I have a leak down tester now... and put in on and seems like there is a leak on the frame of the V-Force reeds??? I took it back apart and I am putting it back together hopefully tonight... And I will take pictures from where the leak was at. Hopefully it wasn't in the cage. Has anybody heard of a leak in the cage? Almost like there was a crack in it...
 
the vf3's are notoriously hard to seal, apply a little casebond or fuel resistant rtv, just a light coat to all sides of the gaskets usually does it !
 
Thanks!! It just seems like it is coming from the top of the cage... I wont be able to get to it til next week, but I will get pics to show where the bubbles are coming from. Hopefully I am wrong and both of you are right! :)
 
Ok so I have time to work on the leak, but it is 42 degrees in my garage, will it be ok to go ahead and put the casebond (i have Hondabond HT) on? I really want to get this thing running...but i also dont want to do it twice...
i have searched google for anything about the product specs and cant get any info on the cure temps and times...
 
The bolts have to be tightened diagonally and incrementally a little at a time or the cage will warp causing a leak.

5.8 ft lbs, no more or the cage will distort.
 
I actually thought i did that til I was just thinking about it... when i first put the engine together i did that but i had a problem with the reed and finally bought a v-force 4 and installed it with out a torque wrench :( So i need to get a torque wrench again.
 
so i removed all screw and started over with a torque wrench no yamabond, there is still a slight leak... so i am going to go ahead and remove it again and re install with yamabond (hondabond is what i have) on all gasket surfaces... i started at 30inchlbs, then 40inlbs, then 50inlbs, 60inlbs, 65inlbs, and finally 71. I will repeat something similar to this, i might just go up in 5inlb increments starting at 20. I will reply back with what i did in a few minutes.
 
I tightened the v-force reed to 71in.-lbs as the manual states. And i did so in a star pattern. I started at 20in.lbs and went up in 5inlb increments. so i am going to wait til tomorrow evening to do a leak check on it since the sealant will need to cure.
 
On another note i went ahead and pulled the clutch cover off to see if i could find out what is wrong with the clutch. when i did i found a c-clip laying at the bottom... it belongs to the idler gear... i did put a new one on it when i put it together, but it must have been the wrong size. can any one tell me what size it is? i have both metric and standard clips... or should i just order it from the dealership?

I took a video of the clutch movement, tell me what you guys think... as you can see i max out the cable adjustment, so i think i will need a new cable... i just remembered i didn't get the push lever in the video :(
The link to the clutch video is video 2013 01 28 19 24 51 - YouTube
 
The sealant is all dried on the v-force, and i just did a leak check... i am losing .3 psi over the 5 minutes!! this is very frustrating!!! Hunting the leak now...
 
Portaparty said:
The sealant is all dried on the v-force, and i just did a leak check... i am losing .3 psi over the 5 minutes!! this is very frustrating!!! Hunting the leak now...
Click to expand...

are you spraying soapy water all over everything to pinpoint the leak ?
be sure to check the exhaust block off and tester itself too !

and does that say .3 or 3 psi ?
 
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