about 2 weeks ago I bought a 2003 blaster. recently had top end rebuilt, bored .08 over with a dmc alien pipe, vforce reeds and fmf exhaust. when I test drove it before I bought it, it worked fine. got it to top of 5th gear down the street with no bogging. later that night me and my friends go riding and it bogs out starting from the 4th gear up. since then, it bogs more and more, even lower in gear. I took the carb out and saw it was running a 230 main jet, put in a 260, rode that and still was bogging and lacking power. after I did that I noticed that the screws holding the exhaust pipe out from the engine were stripped and not holding it down totally secure. it always starts right up, but now it can't even ride in 1st or 2nd without bogging. right now I am in the process of tap and dieing the screw holes so that I can get a tight secure fit on this to stop this air leak. it also idles pretty high, it was never a concern to me because I know that it is a quick fix for that, but now I am thinking this is because of the exhaust. what I am asking is that since I already fixed the jets and cleaned the carb can this be the sole problem of what is causing my blaster to be bogging out?
exhaust problem only?
- Thread starter joey_t
- Start date
once I get it fully secured back on I will do the leak down test if it is still bogging. would the 300 jet be too big? it was working ok with the stock 230 I figured 260 would be perfect...
260 is even still too small. 300 might be big enough for hot summer day. Where you are at it's still cold, I would say start with a 320, plug chop or learn to read a plug properly. XX-2 on leakdown test. Your symptoms indicate a leak. Increasingly worse running indicates either worsening air leak or worsening engine damage. While you have exhaust off for repair, look into exhaust port at piston and cylinder for damage, scoring, chips, burns, breakage. The exhaust leak may have contributed to the running problem, but do not ride it until you test and rejet. What does your plug look like right now? We suggest a range of jetting to get you close, however engines differ as does elevation, and weather. You have to fine tune from there.
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couple that /\ with a 230 main jet and those mods, and new owners prolly running the pants off it in 6th gear up and down the street is a recipe for disaster to that poor piston
i'd do a compression test before i did anything else. report that info here.
that'll do it for shure also I would start at a 290 main and plug chop going up untill its just right bud. leak testing it is a shure fire way of finding out if and how bad it's leaking air. I've seen so many blasters blown up frying pistons (leaks at the base or reed cage) and cranks main bearing seal leaks)because of air leaks so it's a fairly serious matter to have this done when you get bud good luck and were always here if you got questions.
that'll do it for shure also I would start at a 290 main and plug chop going up untill its just right bud. leak testing it is a shure fire way of finding out if and how bad it's leaking air. I've seen so many blasters blown up frying pistons (leaks at the base or reed cage) and cranks main bearing seal leaks)because of air leaks so it's a fairly serious matter to have this done when you get bud good luck and were always here if you got questions.
ok so today I got the exhaust fully secured and conducted the leak test and there is no longer an air leak. I changed the transmission oil, put in a new spark plug and test drove it up and down the street lightly. it now idles perfect, however it is still bogging. I think tomorrow I will go for the 290 jet and see how I do with that. if that doesn't do the trick Im thinking maybe the floats aren't in proper position? ill just have to see what the new jetting does for it first then get back on here and let you guys know where im at
thanks for your input, my uncle is a mechanic and he explained to me how the piston needs the right air pressure back into it. he looked into the engine and said it wasn't flawless but looked ok. there is no longer a leak and I will try the new jet tomorrow and be back with next status
Gonna be chaseing your own tail if "the floats aren't in proper position?"
Haveta start at the begining if you want the proper outcome
8-|
Did you leak test with the header pipe in position?
As to the leak test what pressure did you test it at and just how long did it maintain that pressure?
Make sure you have a good flow of fuel and adjust the float height.
Fit a #290 main jet and lower the clip on the needle to the botton slot. DMC recommends this with the stock needle.
Start the bike and warm it up to operating temp and then adust the idle.
Now perform the plug chop.
Then you need to follow all the suggestions given in this post and report back. Best to start your own thread though.
I have tried each and everyone of these suggestions to no avail. Just wanted to see if the thread writer found a solution to his issue.
