Im planning on sending my engine to kor for a total overhaul with the upgrades im wanting im wondering if ill be able to still run on ither 110 octane or 91 octane 4 mill crank aggressive trail port polish head rechambering lightend fly wheel any advice would be helpful also in what to do maybe
engine rebuild
- Thread starter blastin man
- Start date
I suspect that if you are asking the question you still have a lot to learn about motors in general.
For very little money you can have a Blaster putting out more power to weight than a Raptor660 or Banshee. Send your engine out to KOR for an overhaul and porting, and rechambered head. Buy a good pipe, put a waterskin over the airbox and learn to read the plugs to jet the carb. Your Blaster will run with the big boys and run reliably on pump fuel.
Steve
For very little money you can have a Blaster putting out more power to weight than a Raptor660 or Banshee. Send your engine out to KOR for an overhaul and porting, and rechambered head. Buy a good pipe, put a waterskin over the airbox and learn to read the plugs to jet the carb. Your Blaster will run with the big boys and run reliably on pump fuel.
Steve
Thanks Steve yeah I'm trying to restore my dad's quad that he left me personally I have a 700 raptor already and a trx400x,kx250f I am wanting to get the most out of my motor while staying on pump fuel the park by my house has up to 110 on pump I would like to do everything I can to it other than putting a 240 on it like to do 4 mill port ect I have about a 1200 dollar budget already go a nice header and slip on plenty of jets and a skin for open air box
I have a 240 Blaster, and run a powerful KTM motor in my other one. My son has a 32hp DT200 liquid cooled in one of his Blasters and probably nearly another 5+hp more in his air cooled Blaster. I sold my 660 Raptor and bought a Blaster after riding his. The extreme light weight and good basic design and gearbox won me over.
Either of the quads below is quicker than my GYT-R modified 660 Raptor above, and 100 lbs lighter!
Throwing a big bunch of mods at anything just because you have the money is a recipe for disaster. Either pay an expert (a REAL expert) to do it well or go slowly and learn as you go. There is such a thing as too much. I would not dare let just anyone ride my KTM Blaster and it does not do rough terrain as good as a stock Blaster due to tall gearing and too much power. We built some 35hp Blasters that pulled strong from an idle and could wheelie to 60mph. These were essentially a rechambered head, pipe and porting and were quicker than my Raptor or his Banshee.
Far better is to start with a good reliable base and make further changes one at a time to see what works or what doesn't. Here are some of my suggestions:
GOOD RELIABLE BASE:
Stock crank is best (or go daring and risky with a +3mm stuffed crank) and get the crank and the bottom end built by a professional. Too many ways to go wrong if you have never done this before. The clutch is accessible in frame, so don't worry about it at this point other than replacing plates and baskets that are obviously worn. The stroker crank only adds 1-2hp and limits rpm somewhat. On a cost effectiveness basis certainly not worth the trouble of a 4mm stroker.
BUY A RECHAMBERED CYLINDERHEAD
Not all are equal. Buy from trusted source with Blaster experience. Generic modifiers and Ebay suppliers are suspect. I like some of the aftermarket stuff, and their heads are better than stock, but most can stand improvement. If you want the best head, go to a Blaster expert. This is the foundation for power with a blaster.
HAVE AN EXPERT PORT YOUR CYLINDER
Too much porting makes for a thin low rpm power and unreliable screamer. Go to an expert and be realistic about you riding. "I want the most power ever" screams compensation for inherited physiology. You cannot start porting on this motor and expect professional results. Will not happen. Many self-styled experts are hacks too, so look for solid results in their product.
LIGHTENED FLYWHEEL?
This is great if you have plenty of traction, but once you get over 35hp traction becomes a serious problem. I actually add flywheel weights to some of my 2 strokes to give more tractability. Unless you are drag racing with slicks on asphalt I'd reconsider this mod, especially with its deleterious effects on idle, pull away, slow speed operation and shifting.
RACE FUEL?
Why limit your fun when you can go as fast as your tires will take you on pump fuel?
Unless you are racing, it is compensation or bragging rights, which is another form of compensation. A non-racing engine built for race fuel is a problem waiting to happen. Build it for pump fuel and RUN IT often!
These are just my opinions. Have fun and best of luck with it.
Steve
"You are a dog, what ta heck do you know about boats?"
thanks steve appreciate your opinions they gave me insight and ideas yeah im going to send it to ken and keep it on pump for shure nice pics by the way ill post some of mine tommrow
